Tuscan tipple misses a beat
20 March 2007
Nistri
Sangiovese – Toscana IGT 2004
Available from Checkers; R39.99 for 500ml
‘Sangiovese’
and ‘Toscana’ – two words that make most wine lovers’ hearts beat faster.
After all, sangiovese is one of the world’s most interesting varieties (yes,
it is) and Tuscany the part of Italy that has crafted several superb blends
based on this variety for many hundreds of years, particularly those from
the clearly defined Chianti Classico regions.
But, for every truly wonderful Chianti, there were many more
thin and disappointing ones; mainly as a result of antiquated wine laws
which allowed for white malvasia or trebbiano as blending partners but also
because of neglect in the vineyards and complacency when it came to keeping
pace with other of the world’s classic regions.
In the 1980s, oenologists like Giacomo Tachis revolutionised
winemaking in the region by adding cabernet sauvignon or merlot to
complement their wines. The resultant blends – think of Tignanello, for
example – could not be bottled as Chianti, were declassified to vino da
tavola, and the term ‘Super Tuscan’ was born.
Today, now that legislation has been changed to allow
cabernet sauvignon, merlot and others, most of these have opted for
reclassification as DOC or IGT (Indicazione Geogrifica Tipica). I’ve tasted
wonderfully complex wines from sangiovese-cabernet sauvignon – like
Cabreo Il Borgo from Ruffino; and from sangiovese-merlot – Chianti
Classico La Casuccia from Castello di Ama; but I really do find more
charm and sense of Italy from 100 percent sangiovese or those blended with
other Tuscan varieties – try Cepparello from Isole e Olena and La
Gioia from Riecine.
My supermarket purchase, obviously, was not in their league
because, even with the strides made over the past 30 years, most basic
Chianti is still variable in quality. The wine comes in a 500ml ‘Chianti’
bottle – you know the one: bulb-shaped and adorned with a raffia basket.
This packaging is the clue to its content’s inherent quality: it doesn’t
comfortably lie down to take its place in a cellar, therefore it can’t be
meant for ageing.
In the glass, it was exceptionally pale, just dusted with
garnet. Its nose was meaty with some sour cherries. The palate was
light-bodied for a red wine, even at 12% alcohol. It was again meaty, with
iron or tin touches, and soft tannins.
Verdict:
A definite change from fruity South African reds but lacking body and charm.
On the positive side, it doesn’t make any claims or pretend to be something
it is not – it is supposed to be without any thought. Push the trolley on
by.
Foreign
fling