Further
exploring the bubbly world
Lesser known champagnes
from a new importer
Introduced and rated by Roland Peens, Cape Town retailer and Master of Wine
student
Whilst the Bordelais
(below Cru Classé level) are struggling to survive on a one euro per
kilogram grape subsidy, the champenois are smiling. AOC Champagne cannot
produce enough of the trendy drink, vineyards are looking to expand by 20
percent in the near future and prices in 2008 have gone up 10 percent across
the board. Rosé champagne seems almost unobtainable and the grandest marques
(Cristal, Dom Perigon and the like) are pushing up prices even more to beat
(or cash in on) demand.
So what’s the potential
in South Africa? Previously it was mostly the big brands available here but
over the last few years more importers of lesser-known champagnes are making
their presence felt. Colmat, Cuvee Classiques are already established, but
now Inke Gouws Champagne Négociante has introduced a range to be sold
locally.
Inke grew up in the wine
industry, and her family is firmly entrenched in Ernst and Co winery. A trip
to France and subsequent stints at Moët (please pronounce the ‘T’ as in
‘mowett’ – it’s a Dutch-language name, not French!) et Chandon as well as
Veuve Cliquot stimulated her passion for champagne, and the direction ahead
became clearer. Meeting Paul and Francois Couvreur in 2007, boutique
champagne entrepreneurs, Inke Gouws Champagne Négociante became her
business late last year.
So
what were the selection criteria in amongst the 5000 Champagne producers?
‘Diversity’, Inke maintains, and ‘champagne for connoisseurs who seek to
find terroir-driven wines that are different’. The large champagne houses
source their base wines and grapes from any and every part of the Champagne
area’s 20 000 growers, thereby diluting any vineyard-specific characters.
The champagnes on this portfolio are produced from specific villages.
It costs an enormous
five to seven euros for the grapes in a bottle of champagne – but this gives
growers some room to make their own bottlings as well as selling grapes so
profitably to the big houses. All the producers in the range are also family
estates in that all the wine is grown, vinified, bottled and matured on the
property.
Another important
quality-driver of these producers is the three years of bottle maturation
they all insist on, while the Appellation Controllée laws require only a
minimum of 15 months. According to Paul Couvreur, extended maturation allows
the wines to be made with less sweetening dosage (probably giving a total of
6 -9 grams per litre of residual sugar, compared with that of the domininant
brands, where the level usually hovers around the 12 grams mark.) Extra
maturation also adds complexity and creaminess. These wines are thus great
with food and even main course dishes. Their richness, vinous complexity and
superb freshness will entertain seafood and white meats extremely well.
And what are the wines
like? On the whole, they seem a lot more characterful than your house
champers in the fridge. Bottle age nuances also seem more prevalent, but
only a few are completely mature, and they could use a few years in the
cellar. And yes, they do present terroir-specific characters. The northern
parts of Champagne have more chalky soils, producing an acidic, more mineral
mouthfeel, whilst the south, with more clay, gives a broader textured
effect.
In the notes below,
approximate retail prices are shown, together with a score out of 20
Champagne
Paul Berthelot Premier Cru Brut Réserve
R350
15.5
All three main champagne varieties included (pinot not, chardonnay, pinot
meunière). Leesy, honey and buttery notes showing age. Some wet straw adds
character. Nicely mineral, supple with pleasing freshness. Good density.
Champagne
Serveaux Fils Carte d'Or Brut
R390
16.5
Strong chardonnay presence (60%) adding fabulous mineral and citrus notes.
Fat and juicy with floral hints. Full and long exciting finish. Really
classy and rewarding
Jacques
Picard Sélection Brut
R390
16
Chalky malic (appley) nose. Burgundian depth and complexity. Fresh, elegant
and quite concentrated. A real terroir-driven style.
Champagne
Bernard Girardin Cuvée B.G. Brut
R390
15.5
Upfront red fruits, pinot presence shines through. A little developed and
caramelly. Riper baked apple tart! Clean and medium in intensity.
Champagne
Lecomte Père et Fils Brut Extra Cuvée
R390
14.5
One from more Clay soils in the south, quite close to Chablis in fact. Quite
buttery, soft and fleshy. Little chunky and developed. Salty, dry finish
that is a little short.
Champagne
Vazart-Coquart & Fils Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs
R360 16
From the village of Chouilly that is similar to Mesnil in producing rich
and powerful Chardonnay cuvees. Chalky, apple and spice. Autolytic buscuity
character. Quite fine and clensing. Sumptuous drinking now, but will develop
further. Good length.
Champagne
Carré-Guébels Tradition Brut Premier Cru
R390
14.5
A little stinky at first, but it blows off. Wet wool and chalky feel.
Quite a bit leaner than the rest. A light, easy wine that shows a fair
amount of development.
Champagne
Thierry Massin Sélection Brut
R390
16
Another more-limstone-clay-derived cuvée. Lots of fruit with a pinot feel.
Floral, classy and well structured. A little chunky but exciting and
mouth-filling.
Champagne
Etienne Chéré 2002 Blanc de Blancs
R435
17
The wine of the tasting, showing the excellent vintage. Farily close to
Burgundy, Champagne tends to show a similar vintage quality (1999 and 1996
were also superb in both). Expressive refined nose that leaps from the
glass. Big and texured, offering nuts, butter and limes. Satisfying and
long, it will develop over the next 5 years.
Champagne
Paul Berthelot Brut Rosé
R460
14.5
Why are consumers prepared to pay 20% more for a Champagne that offers less
intrinsic value just because it’s pink? Rather spend the money on the
vintage or even the NV version. This one has the more traditional salmon
colour (It won’t appeal to those seeking pink for Valentines Day!) and is a
fairly simple, fruity and lean example. There is a tannic grip and savoury
element, which may make it better with food.
The
wines are available at Carolines, Wine Concepts and Carlucci’s in Cape Town
where the distribution emphasis seems to be. For other availability, please
email Inke Gouws
