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The Italian treasure-house of grapes
3 March 2008
Some wines from indigenous varieties,
recommended by Angela Lloyd
When wine
statistics are trotted out, Italy always arrives somewhere at the top of the
global list: third in area under vine (849 000 hectares in 2004), second in
wine produced (5 300 000 000 litres) and per capita consumption (46.50
litres). Another figure that would also leave many other countries in its
wake is the number of indigenous grape varieties in this land of the long
boot.
Of course, the
ubiquitous international quintet of cabernet, merlot, shiraz, chardonnay and
sauvignon blanc are also found in Italian vineyards, but the country's real
strength lies in its lesser known varieties, many producing wines of great
individuality and distinction.
 Such
varietal diversity is as much due to Italy's geography as its history. Wine
grapes are grown from 47º North, near the Swiss and Austrian borders and
close to the Alps, all the way to 37º South, on the sun scorched island of
Sicily, in climates both continental and Mediterranean. Historically, the
Greeks, the mysterious Etruscans and of course the Romans themselves have
all helped to develop the varietal mix.
The good news
is that the Italians have now realised the worth of these grapes, from both
quality and marketing points of view and much more is being done to promote
the wines made from them.
Fortunately for
South Africans, there are several good examples available here. Before
recounting a few I tasted recently courtesy of importers Stefano Gabba and
his son, Lorenzo, who run Melgab International, a word on the Italian system
of naming the origin of its wines.
The DOC – Denominazione
di Origine Controllata – system is modelled on the French Appellation
Contrôlée. This set of regulations covers such aspects as viticulture,
winemaking and labelling. As with the French AOC, place names rather than
grape names often appear on the label, the variety or varieties being
implicit in such place name.
Less confusing
is the Italian culture of enjoying wine with food, thus their focus is on
creating food friendly rather than show winning wines.
The following
quartet is a small representation of worthwhile examples of the lesser known
Italian varieties available here.
  Cantina
Lunae Bosoni Colli di Luni Vermentino 2006 12% R95.19
The Colli di Luni is a DOC on the Ligurian coast just to the
east of Genoa. Both white and red grapes are grown there; the whites based
on vermentino with up to 10% other white grapes. This example has presence
without showiness in its firm, fresh structure, good flavour intensity,
without being overtly fruity, and dry finish. As its coastal situation
suggests, vermentino and seafood are natural partners.
La
Giustiniana Gavi di Gavi DOCG Lugarara 2006 R99.75
The 'G' in DOCG stands for Garantita, its purpose to identify
the finest Italian wines – 'guarantee' as opposed to merely 'control'. If it
has gained credibility in the few number of DOCG's awarded, some have been
seriously questioned, but overall it does confer an image of quality where
awarded. The town and DOCG of Gavi are on hilly slopes in south east
Piedmont, just to the north of the Ligurian coast. Cortese, the only grape
permitted, was originally used as a base wine for Asti Spumante. As a solo
act, under the Gavi di Gavi nomenclature, it rose to fame in the 1960s, in
the process becoming Italy's most expensive dry white wine. Burton
Anderson's Wine Atlas of Italy describes the it as having a 'clearly
refined scent and acutely dry flavour with pronounced acidity countered by a
vague sensation of fruit.' Elegant La Giustiniana's fragrance combines
flowers and herbs; its fine, mineral acidity lends a lightness of touch, and
it does indeed end bone dry, and has just 12% alcohol. Again, it is the
ideal partner for Mediterranean's seafood bounty.
Damilano
Barbera d'Alba 2006 R118
The red barbera is known in South Africa, mainly from the
version produced by Durbanville winery, Altydgedacht, although now it also
features on the lists of another two or three cellars. It enjoys much
greater popularity in Italy, where it was the third most planted red variety
in 2000. It is best associated with Piedmont, where it comes second only to
nebbiolo in terms of quality. Characteristically high in acid and low in
tannin, the black cherry/berry fruit is fresh and succulent, spiced by the
pointed acid. The Damilano family, whose barbera vines are between 30 and 50
years old, follow a traditional style, aging the wine in older, large wood,
which focuses on the wine's mouthwatering qualities and leaves it ready to
be opened now. This is a delicious example that should go well with any
spicy or rich dishes where the richness will benefit from the wine's cutting
fruity acids.
 Mastroberadino
Radici Taurasi Riserva DOCG 2000 R269.04
Some of
my favourite Italian wines come from the great red grape of Campania,
aglianico (a corruption of Ellenico, the Italian word for Hellenic). Its
worth is acknowledged beyond provincial borders: the 2003 version of this
example of it has recently been voted one Italy's 50 greatest wines, as
selected by 19 global authorities on Italian wine. A remarkable achievement,
given the Mastroberadino family was the only producer to market an aglianico
until the early 1990s, but they have been in the forefront of championing
Campanian varieties for ten generations. Two important features account for
aglianico's success in Campania: the volcanic soils (Vesuvius is a favourite
tourist destination), and the vicinity of Taurasi, which lies around 500
metres above sea level on the elevated spine that runs down the centre of
the country. Aglianico is an imposing wine, especially in its youth when it
is noted for its fine, if ferocious, tannins, a feature which can see it age
for decades. This Radici – single vineyard – remains youthfully stern, its
characteristic fresh acid backbone focusing and lengthening the deep scents
and savoury flavours of plums, tobacco and bitter chocolate. Despite its
current austerity, a game dish or mature hard cheese should show off its
great potential. With the Rand weakening, it also offers value for money.
Patience will be well rewarded!
Prices quoted are
wholesale, including VAT. If you find these available retail, expect to pay
30+% more. Click
here for the Melgab website.
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This
exploration of the wide wine world as represented on local
shelves brings encouragement (and opinion and
information) for those wanting to imbibe beyond South African
comfort zones. We look at both the pleasantly cheap (and
hopefully cheerful) and the horrendously expensive, at single
wines and at ranges – but all sourced locally. So,
Cheers!
Ganbei!
Kanpai!
Prost!
Gesondheid!
Santé!
Le'chaim!
Sláinte!
Salute!
Vashe zdorovie!
Salud!
Lechyd da!
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