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Craggy Range
Three new imports from New Zealand, discussed
by Angela Lloyd
New Zealand wine started to register on the global radar as
recently as the 1980s, when Marlborough sauvignon blanc hit the headlines.
Since that maiden Cloudy Bay, New Zealand has focused on quality, and the
overall high standard is epitomised in this trio of fine wines.
Although off a smaller base, New Zealand has followed both
Australia and South Africa in its dramatic increase in both vineyard area
and number of wineries. From 262 wineries in 1997, there were 543 by 2007,
while vineyard area expanded from 7410 hectares to 25 355ha. Sauvignon blanc
leads the plantings by a mile at 42%, then come pinot noir, chardonnay,
merlot, pinot gris, riesling and finally cabernet, clocking in at 2%.
Viognier and shiraz might not yet feature on this list, but they are not
neglected; the former has increased its vineyard share by 60%, the latter by
20% over the period 2006 to 2007. Shiraz's reputation punches well above the
vineyard area it covers, especially the wines from the Hawke's Bay region
(where Craggy Range is based).
The quality these varieties produce is due in no small part
through matching vine to site. Such approach is made clear on
Craggy Range's website:
'To select and source the very best vineyards in the country, plant them
with only the vines that are perfectly suited to that terroir and bottle
them all as single estate wines.' This is the goal of owner Terry Peabody,
who, with his family, and MD and viticulturist Steve Smith, grew the dream
of Craggy Range, whose maiden vintage was in 1999 – though the winery was
finished in only 2002.
Smith
has South African connections, in fact, having consulted at Hamilton Russell
and Rustenberg in the mid 1990s. So too does Rod Easthope (right),
who made wine at Rustenberg during the latter 1990s and then consulted at
other wineries in the Cape before returning to his homeland in
2004. Rod joined Craggy Range in 2005 and
is responsible for
chardonnay, syrah and Bordeaux reds from the Hawkes Bay vineyards, while
Adrian Baker is in charge of the cooler climate varieties, sauvignon blanc,
pinot noir and riesling.
Craggy Range is based in Hawkes Bay but draws fruit from both
north and south islands: the Gimblett Gravels in Hawke's Bay, Martinborough
at the south end of the north island; Marlborough, and Nelson in the north
of the south island as well as the awe-inspiringly beautiful Central Otago.
These are vinified at two separate, custom-designed facilities. The main
cellar, named Giants, where visitors are welcomed, sits in dramatic
isolation at the foot of Te Mata peak in the south; the other, across Te
Mata peak in Hastings, is where the sauvignon blanc, pinot noir and Syrah
Block 14 we tasted are vinified.
The wines were tasted sighted by the usual Grape panel of
myself, Tim James, Ingrid Motteux and Cathy van Zyl; the ratings reflect our
usual consensus method.
• Craggy
Range Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2007, Martinborough
R185
16.5
Those who believe New Zealand sauvignon blanc begins and ends
with pungent Marlborough examples should be pleased to discover there are
wines showing more restraint, such as this one (though TJ noted some
confected, tinned pea character). The Craggy Range team call Martinborough
(north island), Marlborough and Nelson (south island) 'warm-cool' regions);
certainly both sauvignon blanc and pinot noir thrive there. The Te Muna
(‘secret place’) vineyard (in picture below) has particular rocky
soils which suit both varieties. The wine’s complexity is mirrored by the
treatment the grapes received: a mix of hand and machine harvesting, whole
bunch and destemmed, indigenous and neutral yeasts, oak barriques (14% with
10% new) and stainless steel tanks and, finally, four months lees' contact.
The appealing purity, finesse and poise in this wine are positives we find
in the other two. Here, there is aromatic freshness of greengage, lime and
wild flowers. Nicely weighted, with good concentration, there's also plenty
of sauvignon vivacity, with really succulent, stimulating acids. The finish
is both dry and long. Drinking well now and until at least 2010.
• Craggy
Range Pinot Noir Te Muna Road Vineyard 2006 Martinborough
R380
16.5
A great attraction of New Zealand pinot noir for me is its
dark-fruited character - primarily black cherries, with a general
savouriness. This example is true to type; primary black cherry fruit is
matched by hints of the savouriness associated with forest floors and
truffles, features that promise to develop with age. The 2006 vintage is
described as classic with a balanced crop. The grapes were fermented on
their own yeasts in a mix of stainless steel and open top oak tanks before
spending nine months in French oak, 35% new; this seasoning is revealed as
'just a brush' for CvZ, who nevertheless is less convinced about the wine
than the rest of us. I find a generosity of texture with lightness of feel;
as TJ notes, it's acid- rather than tannin-driven with an overall balance
that will allow for the ageing we all agree it needs; the winery suggests a
drinking curve of five years.
• Craggy Range Syrah Block 14 2005 Gimblett
Gravels, Hawkes Bay
R300
17
For those who don’t know the wines of France’s northern
Rhône, the idea of a delicate, silky syrah’shiraz may seem unlikely. Thank
goodness there are producers outside France who understand the style and
have the terroir to produce something similar; this is one such wine. The
Gimblett Gravels are an officially designated area within Hawke's Bay, where
Craggy Range has 100 hectares of vineyard. Located well away from the
cooling breezes of the South Pacific the climate is sufficiently warm to
ripen both the Bordeaux and Rhône red varieties. Youthful dark ruby with a
crimson edge, the varietal character is made abundantly clear in the
flourish of white and dark spice fragrance. Such aromas are echoed in the
flavours with great intensity and length, yet there is nothing heavy about
the wine (the alcohol is given as 13%); the mouthfeel is light and supple
with lovely fine, fresh tannins. The oaking is entirely appropriate (54% new
French), supporting rather than dominating the fruit. Compelling,
sophisticated and elegant, with excellent maturation potential until 2013 to
2015.
The wines are imported in small quantities by PhD Fine
Wines (contact
angelique@dombeyawines.com, tel 021 881 3895); at present they are
available from Carolines and the Wine Cellar in Cape Town, and Norman
Goodfellows in Johannesburg.
