Matching regions and varieties in South Africa 21 June 2005

Hotel Food and Beverage Manager Craig Algie asks:

A question that I have been asked more than a few times over the years, by foreigners and locals alike, is 'What bearing, if any, do the specific wine regions in South Africa, have on the types of varietals planted?' Is there some sort of bench mark guide to the regions? A slightly vague and rather broad question but I would appreciate your response.

It should be noted first that the Wine of Origin system pays attention to such ‘terroir’ indicators as soil and climate only at the level of Wards – and even these have boundaries partially suggested by political factors. We can expect the growth in the number of Wards to continue – a very good sign.

What are we learning, then? I’d suggest the following, tentatively:

Stellenbosch remains the quality catch-all place where most varieties do pretty well, though already some tendencies are emerging: the Helderberg (not a defined area as yet) seems particularly successful with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, while pinotage seems well suited to the Muldersvlei and Devon Valley end.

For fashionable shiraz and other varieties associated with France’s Rhône Valley, one can step further into the warmer areas, through Paarl to, perhaps especially, the Swartland, some sections of which are looking as thought they were designed with these varieties in mind. Though those who like the burlier, bolder styles of cabernet, shiraz etc, will point to the success such wines from Wellington are having.

Cooler areas like Elgin and Constantia are showing that they can be extremely successful with sauvignon blanc, and sémillon in Constantia and further down the peninsular towards Cape Point. Comparatively, these areas tend to be a bit less successful with later-ripening red varieties – though this is far from a rule.

The Walker Bay area – particuarly the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley – is now well associated with pinot noir and perhaps chardonnay. Inland, hottter Robertson, though so different from Walker Bay, seems to be pretty successful with chardonnay too – perhaps especially in sparkling wines. The presence of limestone (rare in the Cape) seems to be a factor here – normally climate is a bigger factor than soil. Very differently, the majority – but certainly not all – of the excellent Port-style wines of the last decade or so have come from the Calitzdorp area of the Little Karoo.

These are a few suggestions only. But, to repeat, we are taking in so many new findings and experiments, that it is hard to be more than tentative and there is an enormous amount for viticulturists and winemakers to learn, and in the nature of things it will take a long time for strong indicators to emerge. Who would have guessed a few years back that there would be so many show-winners coming out of Tulbagh, for example? And, of course, if global warming continues, patterns may well be disrupted....

From Angela Lloyd:

The association of areas - Wards, Districts or even Regions - with varieties or wine styles is forged not only through the suitability of site and variety. Despite current research into identifying sites suitable for specific varieties, it remains true that many different varieites can successfully be grown within a small area. Most producers still take advantage of this situation; such diversity tends  not to create a focus on one style or variety.  

Where a variety or style is linked to an area, it is also being forged due to a common purpose among the producers as well as soil/climate suitability. Take Constantia for instance. A Ward with a limited number of wineries, for sure, and one suited to production of quality sauvignon blanc, but I don't believe it would be so readily linked with the variety were it not for the producers' joint efforts to consistently produce quality sauvignon and promote it. The winemakers'  readiness to discuss and share ideas to ensure quality is maintained if not improved is also important. For the same reasons,  Calitzdorp and  Port styles, Walker Bay and Pinot Noir are also closely associated. I'm sure more of these affinities will emerge as producers find specific varieties or wine styles that consistently produce quality within their areas, and where there is a common purpose to maintain such quality through sharing of information and discussion. I have a feeling that Robertson and sparkling wine will achieve such an association in the future.