
OPEN SPACE
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Changes in wine over 12 hours Cathy van Zyl in a recent addition to her
blog, spoke of her method for tasting
wines for the Platter Guide: 'I
usually taste in the afternoon, make notes, and then write up the notes
that evening or the next day with a fresh glass of the wine with me just
to check how it has evolved in the bottle over 12 or so hours.' •
See also James Farquharson's ideas on a
new way of judging wines, |
Clive Sindelman asks: Please tell me how much the 12 hours you give a wine to develop in the bottle after tasting seems to affect your rating of wines? Do good wines (which may be a little shy initially) get better and bad wines (which may seem good at first) get worse or is it a little more complex than that? Does this give any clue as to how a wine might age? |
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Cathy: Hello, Clive! You were a great supporter of the printed Grape and I'm so pleased you're a visitor to the web site. How much does 12 hours or so in the bottle affect my ratings? On the whole, not very much. Usually, it just confirms my first impression. You've done it yourself, I'm sure. 'Yup, I scored you 15 last time we met and I'd do the same today.' Where it does help, I find, is with wines that I struggle with, those that I just can't seem to pin down. The quick solution, I suppose, would be to say to the wine 'Well, if you can't tell me who you are in the first five minutes of our relationship, I'm scoring you three and moving on.' But I don't think that's fair to the wine, or to those that have come before it and those coming after it. They are few and far between, these wines that are unimpressive when you first draw the cork or turn the screwcap and then evolve into something quite elegant, or imposing, or complex. I am fortunate it is my duty to try and find them! Does this give any clue as to how the wine will age? Now you've made me think. Possibly it indicates how quickly or slowly a wine will 'age', but I certainly haven't used it in the past as a base for my ageing 'predictions'. Maybe I should google this one ...
From Tim James: Occasionally a wine will be showing clear signs of ‘oxidising’ after a day, of at least ‘losing its fruit’ – and that for me is a bad sign for a young wine, and suggests that it is unlikely to evolve well in bottle. I confess I can offer not much more than gut-feeling and a bit of logic and some experience in support of my belief. Anyway, on the basis of this I can sometimes be pushed by a half-star or so in either direction, or at least have my initial impression confirmed, or my dithering resolved. Sometimes I will even leave a wine for another day or two to see what happens to it. Certainly I have more respect for wines that can survive and even thrive. An extreme case: I remember last year tasting the Cordoba Crescendo, a wine I know comparatively well, from the generally unsatisfactory 2002 vintage (the Helderberg was not the least affected of the areas). I was very disappointed when I opened it, and thought it was destined to a serious diminuendo in terms of scoring. But I tried it searchingly for three days, and each day it was showing better, so it remained with its default four and a half stars. Its improvement rather than deterioration over that time suggested to me that with a few years it would show itself as a very good wine – though in my opinion not likely to be among the best Crescendos. Christian Eedes and I think, of course, that Crescendo generally ages very well. This one? I’m not sure, but I’d put more confidence in it developing for five or ten years than I would if it hadn’t grown so well once opened. I know that Angela Lloyd is similarly cautious with her Platter wines (and I’m hoping she will be writing for us about her very long experience with the Guide). I do know that this year there was one very good wine that she was considering nominating for five stars; but a day after opening it was already tiring, and that made up her mind that it was not five-star material – probably because of the youth of the vines |