White wine bargains for keeping 18 June 2007

Are there some less expensive whites that deserve cellaring a few years?

Stewart Prentice read Michael Fridjhon’s article suggesting that, at least for now, ‘the Cape’s white wines are a bargain hunter’s paradise’. Stewart wrote:

Perhaps the author (and/or Grape staff when they have a free moment) would be so kind as to compile a list of half a dozen or so "bargain buy" whites which will keep for a few years while not causing us bargain-hunters (who often really buy in stab-in-the-dark fashion) to gamble too crazily with our credit cards.

Tim James responds:

It’s a very good question, of course, though it doesn’t really deal with the point that some wines may not be cheap, but still ‘bargains’. When I asked Michael Fridjhon, he largely took it the question as asking about cheaper, bargain whites. He suggests:

Eikendal Chenin 2006
Hill & Dale Chardonnay 2006
Jordan Chenin 2005
Fleur du Cap Chenin 2006
Perdeberg Chenin Blanc 2006
Ormonde Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Welmoed Sauvignon Blanc 2007

But I suspect the sauvignons aren’t really cellaring material – though certainly some sauvignons do improve for a few years, and some keep even longer. Generally, I think that when it comes to bargains for cellaring, apart from some blends, the varieties to look for are riesling, chenin, chardonnay and semillon (though I can’t actually think of any bargain versions of semillon).

Cathy van Zyl suggests the following for starters, and has gone to the trouble of finding prices:

Paul Cluver Weisser Riesling - R45 ex-farm
Pecan Stream Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc - R36 ex-farm
Knorhoek Two Cubs White Blend - R27 ex-farm
Monterosso Old Bush Vine Chenin - R25 ex-farm

At a higher price, I’d suggest that Chamonix whites (Chardonnay and Sauvignon Reserves) are a bargain, insofar as they provide quality at least as good as much more expensive wines – and both are proven keepers. About R75, I think, when I last looked. The cheaper Chamonix Blanc should also do the trick – though I susuect it’s only available ex-farm

I remember being impressed with Porterville’s Porter Mill Station Chenin Blanc-Chardonnay-Grenache Blanc, which must be pretty cheap, and should keep well (there’s also a version in their Unfiltered Reserve range). Generally, in fact, the chenins from the co-ops in the Swartland area (Perdeberg, Porterville, Riebeek) should all probably be candidates for developing well over a year or two.

I think Michael Fridjhon’s point was really that at all price levels, the Cape’s white wines are undervalued and underpriced compared with the reds, which is something I would agree with. There are a few very pricey chardonnays out there, and the occasional expensive white blend (some very expensive), but even they are fair value given their quality (remember Jancis Robinson’s remark about the ageability of good SA chardonnays – largely unmatched by anywhere outside Burgundy – why, you can be sure, you’d pay very much more).

But I think it would be good to have the benefit of readers’ experiences here. What are the white wines that Stewart could beneficially put away for a few and not pay too much for?