Old pinotage and a
query about Gilbeys
30 May 2008
From Poor Tom!:
The 1971 Swartland Pinotage is mind-blowing. I've got a
question about a Gilbeys Director’s Reserve Tinta Barocca
1969: who was the wine-maker and where could I get some
background information about the old Gilbeys?
Tim James replies:
This question arose out of
Michael Fridjhon’s comments on an
old Cape wines tasting he organised (and a truly wonderful
experience it was, sampling those wines going back to 1940).
I also remember Michael serving me a very good and lively
(though somewhat rustic) Bertrams wine from the mid-60s
once. So I thought he would be the best person to ask about
this, and he says:
I know/knew the wine quite well: it was sold as GDV [Gilbeys
Distillers and Vintners] Reserve Bin 1969 and I remember
Stanley Goldberg telling me it was made at Kleine Zalze. It
was a limited release – the story being that because it had
turned out to be too good to blend away they did a very
simple labelling (a bit like the Delheim special releases
from the early 1980s) maroon print on cream in a claret
bottle with the vintage info "typed on" in black. Head of
winemaking at Gilbeys in those days was Dr Arnold
Schikkerling (a name for the wine trade) and he was
responsible for the Bertrams wines - Gilbeys premium range
at the time. The early 1970s saw some pretty smart
Cabernets, Pinotages and very old style Shirazes and I
recall Gilbeys winning the Jan Smuts Trophy at the young
wine show a couple of times in that era - at a guess 1975
being one such occasion. I've had a few old Bertrams wines
in the past decade and some have held together quite well.
The first edition of South African Wine
(by Dave Hughes and
Phyllis Hands) has a page on Gilbeys, outlining its history.
It supports Michael’s one suggestion, by saying that Gilbeys
bought De Kleine Zalze (as Kleine Zalze was then known) in
1968. The following year their first wine was made there. In
fact, Gilbeys Distillers and Vintners, or just ‘Gilbeys’, as
it was known, had taken that name in 1970 – previously it
was Gilbey-Santhagens. The Gilbeys
take-over of Bertrams was only in 1972. Michael Fridjhon's
own Penguin Book of South African Wine of 1992 also
has a few pages devoted to Gilbeys, and probably so do other
older books about Cape wine.