FINE WINE FOCUS       A series examining the best wines of the Cape’s top producers

Klein Constantia Sauvignon Blanc:   An appraisal by Richard Kelley MW

Klein Constantia Sauvignon Blanc

In the face of the conventional wisdom that South African dry white wines are incapable of ageing and maturing, Klein Constantia Sauvignon Blanc offers conclusive proof that this is not always so. Given that sauvignon’s inherent lack of ageing potential is often internationally cited as reason enough to disqualify the variety from being considered truly noble, what Ross Gower has been able to achieve over the past 15 vintages is even more remarkable.

It is disappointing to realise that the vast majority of these wines will have been consumed well before they have reached best. The estate is now already well into sales of the 2001 vintage, which only became available late last year. With most sales in the domestic market going directly to consumers or retailers, these wines will have been consumed within a month or so of release. Such a shame: for they will not be at their best for a further three or four years. Hopefully, the evidence of this present comprehensive tasting will encourage those with cellar capacity (including, dare one hope, restaurants) to buy the wine and hold it with some patience.

The vineyards

The first vines were planted on the estate, in the heart of relatively cool Constantia, in 1982 – a time when the true potential of sauvignon in the Cape was unknown. The material selected was known locally as the ‘weather station clone’. Vines were planted across the contours of the lower Constantia mountains to help prevent erosion on the steep slopes, at altitudes of between 80 and 200 metres. The existing plantings are now being replaced with vineyards going higher up the slopes (where chardonnay once reigned). Vines are being more widely spaced, with 4000 cordon-pruned vines per hectare, producing 8 tonnes of grapes per hectare.

There is also a move towards using looser-bunched clones, to help reduce the incidence of botrytis. Regular breaking out of shoots within the canopy is necessary early in the growing season to prevent humidity – although Gower observes that any botrytis that occurs tends to start on bunches on the outer canopy, which he puts down to heavy morning dew. (Separate botrytised cuvées were made in 1991, 1992 and 1993. A Noble Late Harvest made from sauvignon was released in 1987, 1991, 1992, 1997 and 1998.)

There is little or no leaf plucking around the grape clusters, which require shading from both sun and wind. The vineyards have been mechanically harvested since the 1999 vintage, although any blocks showing signs of botrytis are still hand-picked. Grapes are harvested at around 23 degrees Balling, although flavour profile is still considered the optimum method of determining picking time. An early hot spell can see the harvest start early in February on the lower, warmer slopes, but there has been one instance of grapes still hanging in mid April on the cooler, higher sites.

Winemaking

Cellar handling principles have changed little since the first vintage in 1986. If the fruit is clean at harvest, 24 hours skin contact is usual. Gower says he is not concerned about phenolic pick-up over this time, because of the low temperatures involved. There is no separation of free and press juice – pressing is, anyway, gentle.

Selected yeasts are used for fermentation: Vin 7 for complexity and Vin 13 for fruit character. Fermentation itself takes place all in stainless steel (Gower has never experimented with barrel fermentation for this wine), at around 14ºC for 18 days. The wine stays in contact with its primary lees for two months, during which time there may be a small amount of malic-to-lactic acid conversion, although this is not encouraged. The wines are bottled in July following the harvest and kept back for six months prior to release.

Since 1997, there has been an increasing proportion of estate-grown sémillon used in the wine. The sémillon is vinified separately and has accounted for up to 12% of the final blend – although giving no obvious sémillon character.

While Gower prefers to pick the fruit at a riper stage, allowing for alcohols that are pushing 14%, I found myself preferring the complexity and lean, racy character evident in some of the lower alcohol wines. But, says Gower, a wine like the 1995 has taken some seven years to reveal itself as the gem it is.

Annual production: 15000 cases
Current release: 2001
Price: R39 per 750ml bottle

KLEIN CONSTANTIA SAUVIGNON BLANC 1986-2001

1986 Nederburg Auction Reserve  **** The first sauvignon vinified on the farm, held back for ‘sentimental reasons’. But this wine is showing its age in comparison to the standard 1986, with advanced  coconut and green pea flavours. Ripe and slightly honeyed, although no botrytis – just mature, ripe fruit. Alc 14%. Still lovely, but needs drinking up.

1986 ****½ Deep, yellow/gold with green hints. Overt canned pea character. Attractive, but uncomplex nose and palate. Nettles and asparagus. Broad flavour and texture. Perhaps a bit hollow, but builds to a long, persistent finish. Alc13.2%. Still holding well, although Gower feels decline is starting.

1987 Blanc de Blancs ***** Released as such, as it was botrytised and lacking sauvignon character. Intense nose – volatile acidity only adding to complexity. Honeycomb and toast character. Lovely fresh acidity (enhanced by 5% chenin). Delicate and focused. Hard to argue with acclaim as the Cape’s best-ever dry white – but see note for 1995! World class. Alc14%. Drinking well, but the structure suggests a long future.

1988  ****  Mature green/gold appearance with coconut and delicate herbaceous hints on the nose. Well balanced and very drinkable. Retains racy acidity. Late harvest character shows through. Good structure and length. Alc 13.1%. On hold, but will not improve.

1989 Tired nose and signs of oxidation. Lean and dried out. Alc 13.7%.

1990 Lean style as confirmed by low 12% alcohol. Drying out. Little fruit left.

1991 *** Polished. No signs of advanced ageing, but simple flavour profile – nettle and gooseberry with a mineral edge. Lively acidity, and quite lean despite 14% alcohol (which shows on the finish). Still crisp, unlikely to age further. Drink up.

1992 * Visual signs of oxidation confirmed on nose and palate. Firm acidity. Simple advanced flavours. Past its best. Alc 13%.

1993 **½ Bright, mid-full yellow/green. Coconut and honey nose, but also signs of advanced maturity – confirmed on the palate. Green beans and asparagus on the brief finish. Alc 12.5%. Beginning to fall apart; drink up.

1994 *** Non-varietal nose and a touch dilute and clumsy. Some secondary flavours, but no real complexity or development; tinned pea flavours. Lively acid; hard, short finish. Should hold, but unlikely to improve. Alc 13%. Drink up.

1995 *****  Lovely, intense nose. Excellent complex sauvignon flavour spectrum on nose and palate. Mineral, chalky, nettles and reductive elements that would have any Sancerre producer in raptures. Lean, tight and austere with excellent structure and persistent finish. Lower (12.5%) alcohol proves that riper fruit is not always vital to quality. Possibly the best sauvignon ever produced in South Africa. Drinking well, but could evolve for another 5 years.

1996 ****½  Deepening yellow/green luminosity. Nachos chip and asparagus. Delicately complex. Leaner style, but with a minerality lacking on the younger wines. Builds well, with good structure and length. Alc 12.5%. Now to 2006

1997 ***½ Mid depth, ripe nose. Despite good sauvignon character, a touch one-dimensional. Light on entry with firm acidity and a leaner, racier style. No sign of age or development – nor indicators of evolution. Good structure and a long, persistent finish. Alc 13%. Drink now; might develop.

 1998 ****  Pale green with some depth. Hints of terpene behind ripe sauvignon fruit. Distinct secondary aromas. Mid weight on entry with some austerity. Builds well with good textural qualities. Reserved style, but a solid finish. Alcohol (14%) shows slightly, but well balanced overall. Candyfloss flavours developing. Alc 14%. Drink now – 2006

1999 ***½ Intense nose with evidence of later-harvested fruit. Attractive, complex elements showing; tinned pea and asparagus Mid-weight and a touch hollow. In a lighter, more elegant style. Builds well to fuller finish. Beginning to pick up some weight as the wine evolves. Alc 13.5%.  Drink now – 2005

2000 **** Cool-climate feel despite the riper vintage. Some development but not fully evolved. Good palate weight and concentration. Well balanced. Intense, with 14.5% alcohol well integrated. Candyfloss and asparagus developing with time in the glass. Drink now – 2007

2001 ***½ (**** potential) The third consecutive warm vintage with botrytis and delayed ripening. Delicate sauvignon character with retained winemaking esters, but obvious development potential. Broad and balanced palate with green bean profile. Not currently as intense as the 2000, but should fill out with time. High 14% alcohol shows on finish. Approachable, but best after 2003.

NOTE: Star ratings are not given where a wine is clearly long past its best.

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