Issue 15 July – September 2002
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Fine wine focus: A series examining the best wines of the Cape’s top producers Saxenburg Private Collection Shiraz Saxenburg Shiraz Select An appraisal by Angela Lloyd Wine of Origin Stellenbosch South Africa’s shiraz renaissance, rooted during the late 1980s and early 1990s, has today attracted many respected winemakers. Among the most prominent pioneers was Saxenburg’s Nico van der Merwe; he remains closely associated with its improved quality and image, both locally and abroad. Why shiraz as the property’s flagship? Nico, delightfully individual rather than a follower of the herd, saw shiraz as a particular challenge: ‘Although the variety is old here and there were many old vineyards of no specific clones, few people were doing anything with shiraz. I was interested to see what could be done. There was also the challenge of making a nice wine using American oak, as again there wasn’t much around in the early ’90s; and, of course, there was always Australia and what could we do here to match them.’ Where Nico does echo the thoughts of many is in his view that ‘Shiraz is feminine, delicate – it needs a careful hand, fine-tuning.’ In the vineyard The evolution of Saxenburg Shiraz has three main phases, each linked to a significant change in viticulture or vinification. Nico’s arrival coincided with a major re-planting programme on Saxenburg, so grapes were initially brought in. ‘Non-clone’ blocks, over 20 years old, in the Kuils River, Somerset West and Helderberg areas of Stellenbosch and known for their consistent yields below four tons per hectare, were regular suppliers. Their soils of decomposed granite with some gravel and clay underneath produce grapes with high sugar, deep colour, fine tannin, strong pepper character and good warmth. From 1995, these were augmented by vineyards in other parts of Stellenbosch and, in 1997, by cleaned-up, virus-free clones from the Simonsberg. Here the soil is heavy and deep, resulting in high acids, black fruit flavours and bold tannins. Home farm grapes were introduced in 1998 and, by 2000, the wine was made entirely from imported and cleaned-up clone vines, 60% from the home farm, the balance from the Simonsberg. Nico looks for sugars converting to around 13.5% to 14%. Harvesting during the warm part of the day ensures fermentation commences immediately. In the cellar Cellar conditions proved a big drawback in the early days, with insufficient space to harvest everything at optimal ripeness, give lengthy maceration or keep blocks separate. Barrels were also stored wherever there was room. By 1995, an air-conditioned barrel cellar had been built and fermentation space had increased sufficiently to leave the wines on the skins for a week. Today, even different parts of a single block can be kept separate. This development constituted the second main change. The totally de-stemmed grapes are fermented in six-ton open stainless steel tanks; concrete tanks were used for early vintages. The juice is inoculated with Vin 372 and fermentation takes place between 30o and 32oC. Five 15-minute pump-overs daily continue until the wine is dry. The cap is also plunged into the wine three times daily but with a single turn through the vat on each occasion, ‘otherwise there’s the danger of extracting over-harsh tannins’. Post-fermentation maceration will now last anywhere between four and 12 days, before pressing. There is no separation of juice fractions and the skins are pressed dry. Lower acid in the younger wines mirrors the general Cape trend. In the early ’90s, adding acid was de rigeur; Nico’s gram per litre at fermentation was on the low side but, without balancing fruit concentration, the acid is now all too evident. The third significant change centres on oak. Until 1997, only American oak was used, with the new component gradually increased to 25%, and 500 litre barrels phased out in favour of 300 litre ones. Together with the new barrel cellar, these give a fresher, more modern profile to the wine. In 1997, French oak was introduced and a portion of the wine now underwent malolactic fermentation in oak. By 2000, the new oak component had increased to 50%, shared equally between American and French, the balance of the wine being aged in used American oak. If the quality graph has risen sharply since the mid-1990s, Nico refers to his experience at the Bührers’ Château Capion in the Languedoc. ‘Working two harvests a year shortens the learning experience,’ he explains. ‘Capion has taught me much about when to harvest, length of maceration and oaking.’ Saxenburg Select Shiraz Adrian Bührer is no sideline owner: ‘He dreams and schemes; I put these into reality,’ says Nico. The Saxenburg Select Shiraz was conceived from Adrian’s desire to have a R500 bottle of South African wine on the market. He’s not there yet; the 1998 sells for R385 from the farm, which currently trumps every other South African wine on the local market. For foreigners, it remains a snip, as evidenced by the Japanese visitor who purchased a case at restaurant retail prices to take home. (Meanwhile, the PC 1995 fetched R434 a bottle on the 2002 Nederburg Auction.) Quality remains the sole goal, which accounts for the single vintage released to date. Grapes are sourced from low-yielding, old vineyards. The wine receives much the same treatment as the Private Collection, except it all goes through malo-lactic fermentation in barrel. A greater proportion of new oak is also employed – 100% for the 2000, divided equally between French and American, and the wine stays in barrel for 14 months, as opposed to the PC’s 12. Both wines receive egg white fining and, to Nico’s regret, are filtered. ‘There’s trouble getting certification when the wines aren’t brilliantly clear,’ he sighs. With wines of the calibre of both of these, Saxenburg and Nico will undoubtedly continue to be leaders of the South African shiraz renaissance. PC Shiraz: approximately 4000 cases
annually Shiraz Select: approximately 200 cases
annually
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THE WINESSaxenburg Private Collection Shiraz 1991-2000 1991 Untasted. (No bottle could be found). At a vertical tasting in 1997, it slotted in after the ’95, ’93 and ’94 and before the ’92. 1992 ** Developed ruby with fading garnet rim. Sweet American oak with bouillon/marmite undertones. Medium-bodied with sweet fruit again bolstered by oak flavours. Lacks real flesh, texture, though tannins are holding well. A touch green with prominent acid finish. Includes small percentage Tinta Barocca. Drink up now. 1993 *** Strong ruby with deeper, richer bouquet overlaid by spicy, rather than sweet, American oak. Well-structured; greater concentration than the older wine; more animal, garrigue secondary character with some richness, though again ends a little sweet-'n-sour with pointed acid. Ready; but could hold another year. 1994 **(*) A hot year, showing in dense, dark hue, maturing garnet edge. Ripe, rather unexpressive bouquet; less noticeably oak-influenced. Robust with noticeable alcohol (14%), a touch hollow and short, though has some pleasant meaty, bouillon savouriness. Will show at best with suitable food partner. Drink over next year or two. 1995 ****(*) An important milestone. Lovely expression of elegant, structured vintage. Complex, maturing bouquet; spicy meat, chocolate, enriched by good oak. Soft, silky entry, grows in savoury richness, persistence. Great balance. Complete wine. Now to 2005. 1996 **** Nico's ‘surprise of this lighter vintage'; restaurant wine par excellence, showing some maturity. Similar elegance to 1995 but without underpinning structure, complexity. Open, expressive nose showing good use of oak. Lovely texture, emphasised by non-intrusive tannins; gentle crescendo of spicy richness, tapered finish. Harmonious. Now to 2004. 1997 *** A vintage with some important firsts: longer maceration, malolactic in new oak (20%) and French oak (5%). Benefits of in-barrel malo visible in greater ruby brilliance. Touch volatile, heightens cooler year's white pepper character. Palate unevolved, quite tight and a little short, though not overly lean. Possibly going through awkward stage; can gain (even extra H) from another 2-3 years. 1998 ****(*) Fully expresses variety's warm, rich personality. First intake of Saxenburg's own grapes. Greater proportion completed fermentation in barrel, adds mouth-saturating, glycerol texture; richness also emphasised by lower acid. Very deep colour with smoky bacon, dark berry complexity, introverted rather than showy, still unevolved. Excellent structure, generous length, some still-evident hints of toasty oak. Now to 2008+. 1999 **** Evident new-clone influence, favoured by this fruity vintage. Youthful violet, spice fragrance. Generous, ripe red-fruit flavours; elegant, pliable mouthfeel. Medium-to-full-bodied. Dry, well-sustained finish. Has some structural similarities to 1996 but with bit more concentration, grip. However, would be a pity to let fruit fade. Now to around 2006. 2000 ****(*) (***** potential) Undoubtedly the best to date in the PC range; important stage in evolution of this label. Massive wine; still youthful, unrevealing. Most new oak to date – 50%, half French – enriches, infuses more cedary spice to fully ripe, dark berry aromas. Wonderfully supple yet with core of firmness, intensity. Mouthcoating richness; great length. Built for long haul. Drink 2004 to at least 2010.
Saxenburg Shiraz Select 1998 ****(*) From single Somerset West vineyard. Much in same mould as PC, though with more of everything. Deep quite introverted spice, smoky bacon nose with noticeable oak. Deliciously savoury; rich and densely textured with unobtrusive though solid tannin support. A statement wine though still quite reticent. With time should gain great complexity and full 5H; longer potential than PC version. Now to 2010. 2000 ***** Blend of grapes from Kuils River and Somerset West, this is an extrovert. An important evolutionary milestone in Saxenburg Shiraz. Classy, modern; great character even in infancy. Intense, limpid purple. Lovely fluid yet broad textured feel; resonating bright violets, black berries and new oak flavours. Very fresh, compact for this ripe vintage with tannic tension still to resolve on finish. 2006 to at least 2015.
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