| The widow's sour grapes I see that dear Jan (I always call Jancis
Robinson that) has just been awarded an OBE. Now, of
course I wouldn't normally mention this - as a good
socialist I find the idea of a Queen handing out awards
honouring an Empire somewhat unattractive. When it comes
to my turn, I shall certainly decline.... But of course
it is at least a compliment to wine-writing, and I've
been most perturbed not to see reports of Jan's
achievement in the local press - though they've been full
of the same award being made to a footballer - Packham,
his name is, or something like that. I'm sure that in
England, where they really respect wine, that Jan's award
will have been much better received than this one to
Kickem.
A couple of true and charming stories to tell you, as I'm
in a benign mood and less ready than ever to criticise
anyone. Apparently, at the Pinotage Association's recent
tasting, winemaker Charles Hopkins told how, at the first
such event, a pourer came up to pinotage pontiff Duimpie
Bayly, very worried and wide-eyed, asking what he should
do, because one of the wines being poured was a Cabernet.
'Don't worry,' Duimpie responded, 'it just goes to show
how versatile Pinotage can be.'
The other story is perhaps a little shocking, but at my
age one is past worrying about propriety. It concerns the
name 'QF' which Rustenberg gave to its Brampton sweet
wine. Apparently an abbreviation was born when one
Antipodean winemaker was visiting another Antipodean
winemaker - the one who'd made the first of these
sweeties. 'Gosh!' (or word to that effect), said the
visitor on tasting it, 'that's better than a Quick Fix!'
(I find that I am, after all, too old-fashioned to use
the correct word in print - but I'm sure all of you
who've had the dubious pleasure of meeting Antipodean
winemakers will understand....
Given that American culture increasingly rules the world,
and particularly given that American dictionaries are
firmly lodged as the default in most people's computer
spell-check, it is inevitable that we shall all be using
American spelling in a few decades. Not necessarily a bad
thing. But you'd think for now our national legislature
would at least be a little careful and maintain high
standards when it comes to being consistent with earlier
legislation, wouldn't you?
I mention this because producers have recently been
informed of the wording of a health warning that must
next year appear on all our wine labels. The warning is
to help severe asthma sufferers. You'd think that they
would know what dietary precautions to take, wouldn't
you? And if they don't, is it likely that a message on a
bottle giving the problematic ingredient of most wine
would be a great help? Presumably not all wine-loving
severe asthma sufferers are half-wits, and if they've
survived thus far, the chances are that they nknow whats
in a wine bottle.
But we have became very good in South Africa with the
cheaper end of public health-care. So you might have
thought that 'Contains sulphites' would do the trick,
being consistent not only with everything else English in
South Africa, but also with all the sulphurs and
sulphates already in the legislation. But no, the
American inspiration of the legislation is matched by
American spelling, so that the instruction has gone out
to all producers to warn us that their wines contain
'sulfites'. Perhaps the problem is that the legislators
are advised on wine matters by the Wine and Spirit Board,
which has its own attitude to laws. Perhaps Distell
prefers the American spelling and sent out the
appropriate instruction?
I'm told that Rust en Vrede has a new marketing assistant
- it was mentioned to me by a Johannesburg friend who
rather fancies both owner Jean Engelbrecht and the new
chappie, a former waterpolo Springbok named Duncan Woods.
What intrigues me is how this reflects the state of
modern wine: when a small producer has so many more
marketers than winemakers or viticulturalists! No wonder
they are lauded by American magazines like the Wine
Speculator!
On the subject of marketing, I heard some interesting
tales about the Fleur du Cap restaurant awards (I think
they only happen here in Cape Town, and are not of much
significance even here, so will readers from elsewhere
just move to the next paragraph, please?). One complaint
of many of the diners seeking cheap good meals at fancy
restaurants during the competition is that they get one
measly glass of wine - when the whole point is to
advertise Fleur du Cap wines. I'm told that the reason
for this is that the restaurants have to pay quite
handsomely for the wines themselves, because the
appropriately named Christine Cashmore, who runs the
show, demands such a big cut of the financial action.
Also, in a way that makes wine show results seem
positively respectable and un-chancy - the winner of the
'waiter of the year' part of the competition is
determined by all the nominations being put into a hat
and one lucky one drawn out....
Actually, perhaps Veritas could learn a thing or two from
Ms Cashmore about methods of getting more plausible
results. They don't need to learn much about greed - it
has always amazed me that no one seems to wonder why they
need to be given twelve bottles of each wine entered -
plus a fee, of course.
I'm pleased to hear that Juliet Cullinan's show in Joburg
went so well. She kindly sent round a mass email telling
us so, and (after a bit of her not only purple, but
gilt-encrusted, prose) listed all the media that had
mentioned it. Among these was her own website - most
reassuring to know that she hadn't ignored it. Strangely,
she didn't point out that my last column also spoke of
her show, nor the widespread discussion about the bizarre
inappropriateness of having curry cooked and served
between the wine-tasting tables at her event.
Talking of wine shows, I am trying to organise things so
that I can meet my public at the WineX shows in
Johannesburg and Cape Town. I don't know where they found
the money (none ever comes my way as even token payment
for this column), but Grape has somehow managed to get
itself a stand. In fact, the only way I heard about it is
that a very malicious rumour came my way that they were
going to put my picture on a dart-board and invite people
to ... well, you know. Obviously this hurtful tale is
quite untrue, and I do hope I shall be there in person to
meet you all.
Till then, watch those sulfites.
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