Issue 20 October–December 2003
• Return to Grape
20 contents page
•
Return to
Grape home page
SA's bestA panel of 26 local winewriters, judges, sommeliers and retailers cast their votes for the finest Cape wineries and wines The last time we asked a panel to vote for their top twenty producers was rather more than two years back (Grape 9, May-June 2001). The most remarkable difference between the vote then and now is probably not the fairly predictable emergence of Vergelegen as the most highly regarded Cape producer, but the rise in reputation of Rust en Vrede. From being not even a close contender for the bottom rankings on that list, it is now firmly in fourth place overall. An almost corresponding decline in estimation is reflected in the slipping of Veenwouden from third place to the bottom rung here. Other changes were less dramatic. Only Saxenburg, Grangehurst and Buitenverwachting fell off the bottom, to be replaced by Steenberg and Rust en Vrede (in 2001 we had a Top 21 rather than Top 20, because of a tied vote for the final placings; the voters were more obliging this year). Glen Carlou moved noticeably downwards, Fairview, Springfield and Thelema upwards - Thelema now firmly in the (very close) top five. The judges were asked, it should be pointed out, to vote for their top five, and then for their top 20 - without making any rankings within these two groupings: the determination of final overall places was achieved by simply totalling the number of votes cast. The panel of voters is not, admittedly exactly the same as last time, although there is substantial overlap. This year we included not only writers and judges, but also a small and representative selection of sommeliers and wine-retailers. We tried more carefully to choose people whom we thought to be not only competent judges, but also likely to be well informed about developments in the fast-changing wine scene - something that is becoming increasingly difficult: the forthcoming edition of the Platter Wine Guide lists 57 new wineries or negociants, for example. The voters were not given criteria as to how they should interpret such words as 'best'. Most chose wineries with established track records, rather than some of the new (often very small) producers who are providing a good deal of the innovative excitement in the Cape. One of the supplementary questions we asked, however, was to nominate the best 'newcomer' wines; although the white section was easily won by Vergelegen, the two easily-dominating red wines were the bordeaux-style blend from Morgenster and Colu-mella, the shiraz from Sadie Family - suggesting, perhaps, that these producers are possibly likely entrants to a future top twenty list. Actual changes in the table of leading wineries, and the chance of more in the near future testify to the dynamism and improvement which commentators see in the Cape's wine industry. This conclusion must be reinforced by noticing the excellent established producers which do not make it into the Top 20: just excluded, for example, were De Toren, Grangehurst, Mulderbosch, Meerlust, Le Riche and Warwick, and it would not be difficult to justify the inclusion of many more - quite apart from the specialist producers of fortified wines. Between them, in fact, the voters nominated a total of 77 wineries for the Top 20 list - indicating a gratifying breadth of quality. It is worth repeating, however, a caveat made in the discussion of the 2001 poll results, regarding some of the inclusions and omissions: never has it been more important not only to produce quality but be able to maintain visibility in the market place. Even experienced judges can fall prey to the power of image, and, while some cellars have a high profile, some others are simply unfashionable, or do not immediately spring to mind. As before, however, this cannot diminish the achievement of those who make our lists. Particularly at the top end there was substantial voter agreement, though generally not complete consensus - although it should be noted that not a single voter excluded Vergelegen from the top five. Only two excluded Kanonkop from the top 20. If Kanonkop has been eclipsed this
year by an effectively much younger cellar, it is worth
highlighting the fact that the cellar's Paul Sauer
remains our pollsters' most highly regarded red Cape wine
- though only just ahead of the eponymous wines from Rust
en Vrede and Vergelegen. (Is it significant for the
Cape's future fortunes that these three wines are all
cabernet-based blends?) It would be fair to see all these results as important, given that they reflect the current judgement of a panel representing a large proportion of South Africa's most widely and deeply experienced wine-professionals. A poll in a few years' time is almost certain to produce some significant changes. As is the case this year, such changes will be testimony to the dynamism of the industry, to the possibility of rising dramatically in public esteem through a drive to quality - and, sadly, to the possibility of falling behind. The pollsters list the good and the bad of the past ten
years Predictably, perhaps, there were plenty of ideas on what
to applaud and what to regret. There were even some
contradictions - not surprising given the range of our
voting panel. So that 'better use of oak' was something
mentioned by many; while others criticised over-oaking as
one of the worst trends. Positives referred to trends in
both the vineyard and the winery - mostly, in fact, the
former. (Viticulturists often feel a little shortchanged,
when winemakers get all the limelight; they can be hereby
assured that their skills and accomplishments are
recognised!) There was a substantial welcome for the use
of new varieties, and for increased emphasis on vineyard
management, for paying more attention to matching terroir
to variety, for achieving better levels of ripeness. Clearly, there was no problem in finding a wide range of trends to welcome. But producers, researchers, viticulturists and winemakers should take note of the vastly greater degree of unanimity when it came to finding trends to criticise. The majority of those polled complained about over-ripeness. Many supplemented this by regretting the high levels of alcohol being increasingly encountered, and the number of wines (the moan mainly directed at reds) containing unacceptably high levels of residual sugar. Other problems mentioned included a loss of typicity and character in favour of 'international styling', formula winemaking, over-manipulation - including the (illegal) use of adulterating flavourants and too much acidification. It maybe reflects the apparent comparative insulation of the wine industry that there was little said - favourably or otherwise - regarding social questions. A few depressed comments were made regarding the continued social conservatism of the industry and the tokenism of 'empowerment' efforts thus far. And, rather surprisingly, there were only a few protests made at the 'crazy prices' which increasingly prevail. Varietal progress |
TOP 5 TOP 20 The number of votes received is given in brackets, out of a maximum of 26. Separate polls were conducted for the Top 5 and Top 20
|