A selection of 2005 sauvignon blancs
5 October 2005
Arranged alphabetically....
Black Oystercatcher Sauvignon Blanc 2005
R55 15
The Elim ward (between Hermanus and Cape Agulhas) is part of the habitat
of the red-billed black oystercatcher – the protected bird which gives
Dirk Human’s winery its name. The maiden Sauvignon has, as to be expected
from this cool region, some good greenpepper character, with a whiff of
fruity perfume presaging what proves to be a rather richly fruity
mouthful, with a reasonable length of flavour. But there’s a lack of
focus, with the green crispness and good acidic bite slightly at odds, not
quite integrated, with this ripe fruitiness; it might come together with
six months or more in the bottle. Let’s hope so, as it’s not cheap stuff.
(There’s a Shiraz, too, which will be reviewed here later.) —TJ
Constantia Glen Sauvignon Blanc 2005
R90 Website 16
The Constantia Valley has seen much vineyard development over the past few
years, especially the area around Constantia Nek, with Glen Alpine one of
the farms where the steep slopes have been transformed into vineyards.
Their maiden Sauvignon, made by sauvignon supremo, Steenberg’s John
Loubser, gives notice of the quality goals. But it needs time to show its
best. Immediately after opening, there were still fermentation aromas,
also a slight sweatiness often associated with young sauvignon. Behind
this lies focused, pure fruit, lacking some concentration for IM, but for
TJ in a rich, forceful style he associates with Constantia. Our initial
rating gave the wine the benefit of the doubt, but over the next two days,
I found the wine sloughed off the raw elements, revealing trademark
brilliant fig and wild grass tones, good weight and a rich, dry finish. A
very polished, if highly priced, debut, that should continue to please
over the next year or two.—AL
Dalla Cia Sauvignon Blanc
2005 R45
Website
14.5
Closed with the high-tech polymer Italian seal Guala Elite, there’s no
chance of cork taint lurking in former Meerlust cellarmaster Giorgio Dalla
Cia’s Sauvignon. The striking Soave-style bottle is lightly tinted, making
the wine appear pale, lurid green – fortunately, when poured it’s a more
reassuring straw colour. Made in typically Italian food style, with no
overt varietal characteristics to distract the diner, it possesses decent
breadth and balance, though insufficient depth or complexity to pique the
interest. CvZ & AL were more appreciative than TJ & IM, finding the wine
to be unaggressive and positive in style.
—IM
Durbanville Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2005
R35 Website
15 !!!
It’s only the ‘third-best’ sauvignon from this impressive Distell-controlled
winery in Tygerberg – but one that many others would be proud of to top a
list. And made in large quantities too, which makes even more impressive
the achievement of winemaker Martin Moore (and of the
six vineyards
from which the grapes were sourced, of course). There are subtle tropical
fruit aromas and flavours, firmly controlled by typical green-pepper
crispness. It’s well balanced, refreshing, pleasing – briskly and
efficiently doing, at a decent price, just the job that sauvignon is
expected to perform.
—TJ
• see comments below
Elgin Vintners Sauvignon Blanc 2005
R50 (f) 16
Each wine that comes out of this traditional apple area has so far
endorsed the faith of those who’ve uprooted orchards in favour of
vineyards. This wine is no exception – helped by the experience of Ross
Gower (ex- Klein Constantia), seeing it through the cellar
(notwithstanding the front label’s coy insistence that it was ‘Created by
Nature’). Elgin Vintners is a consortium of six Elgin farmers, three of
whom contributed grapes from different parts of the region for this
elegant wine. It has distinctive cool minerality but is also unusually
multi-dimensional. Quite light-bodied, there is nevertheless good varietal
definition and concentration without exaggeration. Fresh acidity provides
a clean, stimulating feel but is not overly aggressive. A well balanced,
assured wine and full marks to the Vintners for the screw cap closure and
for spelling ‘sulphites’ in the English idiom – though we are less
enthusiastic about the rather fussy label with its garish orange trim. If
this wine didn’t hold its own over two days as well as the other
sauvignons I tasted, it did go particularly well with asparagus!
—AL
Fleur du Cap
Website
• Sauvignon Blanc 2005
R28.50 14.5 !!!
• Sauvignon Blanc Unfiltered 2005
R65
16
An interesting and contrasting experience here. Both wines are well made
within their different styles, as one would expect from this consistent
producer. The standard version, from Stellenbosch fruit, is designed not
to deter those who dislike excessive sauvignon fruit or aggression, though
both CvZ and IM thought it displayed too little varietal definition and
would have scored it half a point lower. The fruit tends towards the
riper, tropical spectrum but there is still good freshness with a clean,
crisp palate. My only quibble is a slightly ‘hot’ (alcoholic) finish but
this doesn’t disturb an overall pleasant drinkability. A good buy, best
enjoyed in the freshness of youth.
The label of the Unfiltered version reveals the grapes come from
both Cape Agulhas and Lutzville – a new dispensation by the Wine a Spirit
Board: under previous rules the amorphous WO Western Cape designation
would have applied. Both areas are cool in the SA context, the Lutzville
grapes coming from near Koekenaap, a coastal spot cooled by the influence
of the Benguela current. The benefits of such origins for sauvignon are
immediately obvious in this cool, very expressive wine and we were
unanimous in our appreciation. The aromas are focused, intense and
minerally with a dimension not often found in sauvignon. CvZ noted
positive grapefuit pithiness. Good weight is contrasted by mouthwatering
freshness and the wine’s focused intensity leads to a reverberating, long
finish. Two days later, it had lost none of its attractions. Both
distinctive and refined, it should stand the test of two or three years’
ageing.
—AL
Klein Constantia
Website
•
Sauvignon
Blanc 2005
R65 16
• Sauvignon Blanc Perdeblokke 2005
R80 17
Klein Constantia – fondly nicknamed ‘KC’ by many loyal fans and friends –
celebrates 25 years under Jooste rule in 2005. Situated on the cool slopes
of the Constantiaberg, the property has garnered many accolades during its
quarter century history; most for its wines but some for its architecture
and vineyards (these lovingly tended for over 24 harvests by farm manager
Kobus Jordan). The 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, bottled under screw cap, has very
pleasing sauvignon characters – nettle and fig aromas, grapefruit flavours,
zesty acidity – without being aggressive or overbearing. Most impressive
is its persistency and balance, but we wonder if it perhaps lacks the
vibrancy of previous vintages. By contrast, the 2005 Sauvignon Blanc Perdeblokke – the second vintage of this wine from a single vineyard 220m
above sea level and named for the Percheron horses that used to pull the
farm ploughs many years ago – is positively exuberant and ‘unfettered’.
Initially pungent and a little sweaty, it opened up to grass, passionfruit
and raspberries. The palate is exceptionally concentrated and
fruit-laden, and finishes dry and long. Both sauvignons were
drinking well on the day … and 36 hours later! Some older vintages of KC
sauvignon have lasted extremely well – these too should evolve
satisfactorily over at least a few years in bottle. —CvZ
• see comments below
Neethlingshof Sauvignon Blanc 2005
R37
Website
14.5
Tasting this Stellenbosch wine from the Lusan stable immediately after a
concentrated, cool-climate Elgin sauvignon did little for it – later
sampling showed it in a slightly more positive light. Pale straw in
colour, with fermentation esters and confected pineapple aromas preceding
fresh lime cordial fruit flavours, the overall impression
is that the
wine would have benefited from more concentration and focus. AL felt the
acid was not integrated, and that it lacked vibrancy. Twist the cap soon,
and drink whilst fresh within the next 6 months.
—IM
Savanha Sauvignon Blanc 2005 R25
13
Winecorp website
The sun on the new Savanha label is apparently intended to reflect the
team’s goal of reflecting ‘the sunny South African terroir in its
wines’. This translates as a wine style that can be enjoyed either
immediately but also with the possibility of ageing. No waiting around
is necessary for this friendly, if undemonstrative sauvignon; in fact
enjoying it in the freshness of youth is by far the better option. Clean
sauvignon aromas, a touch tropical but with some sauvage herbaceous
hints, are echoed in the mouth. Medium bodied, flavoursome, softish but
not flabby, with a savoury, gently lingering finish, it will make
pleasant aperitif sipping during the coming sunny summer.
—AL
Zonnebloem Sauvignon Blanc 2005
R32
Website
13
Distell’s long established Zonnebloem range, one of South Africa’s best
known brands usually offers good value for money, though this wine
(retailing for over ₤5 in Oddbins) fits rather too perfectly the bland
‘dry white wine’ category for undiscerning drinking, and as such would be
better suited to a lower price point. Initial tropical fruit flavours on
the front palate finish abruptly. TJ found it ‘awkward and unlovely’
whilst the rest thought it a ‘harmless’ enough concoction. Drink pretty
soon before it fades entirely.
—IM
Zorgvliet Sauvignon Blanc 2005
R75 (f)
15
Website
This is one of three wines launched under the new flagship range (the
others to be reviewed later). The vines, five years old in 2005, grow
high on the Simonsberg above this Helshoogte farm. It might be their
youth as well as the fact we tasted the wine only two weeks after
bottling, that left us with the impression it could do with some time to
settle down. Ripe fig aromas currently have a slightly sweaty reduced
character, maybe due in part to the screwcap closure, although this
sweatiness blows off after a few hours. Ripeness is also evident on the
palate via both the pleasant flavours, lifted by a touch of sugar, and
noticeable alcohol. A lack of real weight and verve prevented a higher
score, though IM was even more doubtful, finding the ‘fruit salts’ acid
a detraction. —AL
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