Radford Dale, Savanha, Tokara and Webersburg
14 October 2005

Radford Dale Chardonnay 2004 R90 Website 15.5
The innovative – but rather irritatingly named – Stellenbosch outfit The Winery is building a fine reputation across all its ranges, with the Radford Dale wines at their head. They are named for two of the winemaking/management team, Ben Radford (now based in his native Australia, where he makes a Riesling for the now dual-continent label) and Alex Dale, in charge in the Cape. The Chardonnay is a blend of grapes from the Helderberg and the Simonsberg, but speaks, at this stage anyway, rather more of toasty oak than of terroir. There’s also plenty of zing, with citrus and apple notes behind the wood, making for a very pleasant wine, with a good flavourful finish; but it’s a touch soft and immediately friendly – not clearly destined for more development. A little disappointing for those who recall the 2003 version. —TJ

Savanha Chardonnay 2004 R25 Website 13.5
South African chardonnay rarely excites and more often than not tires after the first glass. So describing this as a decent, undemanding example at a good price should be regarded in a positive light. The colour is attractive, not too yellow and shot with a fresh green tint. Welcome restraint in the use of oak (staves rather than barrels and only on a portion of the wine) favours the pleasant, if muted, nutty, leesy aromas. Brighter flavours, courtesy in part of a rather too spirited acid, are contrasted by some leesy richness – nothing too heavy nor complex but with an agreeable dry conclusion and reasonable length. All well moulded for current enjoyment. —AL

Tokara
• Sauvignon Blanc 2005 R75 16.5
• Chardonnay 2004 R100 16.5
• White 2004 R125  17
• Red R150 16.5 Prices (f) Website
There’s been plenty written about the launch – at last! – of wines under the Tokara label. Long anticipation, and knowledge of the effort and expense going into the wines, is almost inevitably bound to lead to a degree of slight disappointment, but in fact these are all very good wines. It was the Red which disappointed just a little, perhaps: certainly refined and classy, this blend of cab with merlot and petit verdot is clearly modern in style – ripe, rather softly structured, with gently smooth tannins, an equally easy-going acidity, and wood that is pretty apparent (20 months, 60% new French). But as a wine made for relatively early appreciation, it is certainly good. It didn’t hold up particularly well over the few days after opening, losing some fruit (but revealing an underlying structure), which reminds us that the grapes are from young wines, and maybe this vintage should be drunk (with pleasure) over the next two to three years.
    The Zondernaam wines from this cellar have led us to expect some excellent Tokara sauvignons, and these two contrasting versions don’t disappoint. The tank-fermented wine (under the varietal name) is from the maiden crop of the winery’s Walker Bay vineyards, and emphatically cool-climate in character: quietly rich but with a steely core, notes of fresh grass, passionfruit and minerality. Elegantly incisive and well balanced, we agreed. Tokara White is from Stellenbosch sauvignon fruit, with a not dissimilar steely refinement. Initially we found a slight sweatiness on the nose, and a note almost like parmesan cheese, but the wine developed wonderfully over the next day or two, revealing more depths of flavour and concentration, well integrated and subtle oak – a development implying that at least another year or two in bottle will give rewards. A very fitting white flagship for the cellar.
    After that the Chardonnay seems almost anticlimactic, which is unfair, as it is a very attractive and satisfying wine in an understated rather than blockbusterish style; there’s good concentrated fruit, sensitive oaking, a pleasing lemony twist and mineral undertone, a crisp and properly dry finish. The wine is tight now, and should develop over a year or so.
    All in all, there’s every reason to celebrate the first fruits of this ambitious project – especially at prices more modest than many were expecting – and to look forward keenly to the next releases. —TJ

Webersburg
• Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2002 R98 15.5
• Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 R98 16.5 Website
Classicists will welcome these two reds from Fred Weber’s prime Helderberg property. In their restraint, medium-bodied elegance, freshness and dry finish, they are the antithesis of the all too familiar alcoholic fruit bombs with their frequent dollop of sweetness. The bordeaux blend is a maiden offering, a 70/30 partnership, beautifully composed, the varieties dovetailing with in style and structure. The intense red meniscus suggests some development already – perhaps not surprising from the difficult 2002 vintage – but there is good fruit: the merlot provides flesh and fullness in the mouth, the cabernet, with its defined but not harsh tannins, gives a fine tailored finish. The oaking regime -  18 months in 70% new 300 litre barrels - is subtle but effective. TJ, who particularly likes the style, would reward it with a further half point. While its integration and balance are spot on, and it should hold until at least 2007, I have my doubts about its potential to improve.
    The Cabernet gives grounds for more confidence as to future prospects, especially as the wine grows in the glass. At the same time, with a release that is delayed compared with most local reds, it is already over any youthful awkwardness. Both ripeness and quality are hinted at in the wine’s dark brilliance, these confirmed in the rich, deep dark berry bouquet with its slight meaty development and spicy oak enrichment. Mouthfilling, flavoursome, with supple yet firm tannins and a freshness allowing for excellent savoury length, this is a very good cabernet. Oaking as in the blend and a similar 13.5% alcohol assist in overall drinking satisfaction now and for a further five or six years. —AL

Scoring

Grape’s interpretation of the
20-point rating scale

0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant

10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound

12-13.5: Pleasant enough, simple quaffer

14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement

16-16.5 Very good, offering something special

17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA

18-20  Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest

!!! indicates especially good value

Prices
Prices given are approximate retail in South Africa, except where indicated as ex-farm by (f)

Tasters

TJ – Tim James
AL – Angela Lloyd
IM – Ingrid Motteux
CvZ – Cathy van Zyl