From Asara to Zorgvliet – a mixed bunch 14 November 2005

Asara Avalon 2004 R450 (f) 15
This is Stellenbosch estate Asara’s first attempt at making a wine from semi-snipped bunches (of pinotage) which are left to partially desiccate on the vine. It is labelled ‘Italian style’, referring to inspiration from the dried-grape Amarone wines of the Valpolicella region – although there the grapes (certainly not pinotage!) are dried in airy lofts. The wine’s opaque, dark core, obviously heavy, glycerol ‘legs’ and rather porty aromas demonstrate the objective. We generally felt that there was a little too much sweetness to compare with the classic Amarone style (the sweeter Italian versions are generally known as Recioto), and lacked the compensating bitter twist that gives Amarone its name and adds interest on the finish. However, the dryness of firm grape and oak tannins do satisfactorily reign in some of the sweetness and richness, adding a certain seriousness. Cellaring – yes, winter fire – yes. But, like the Italian model, this would be great as a ‘vino di meditazione’ with, say, nuts and cheese. Note, however, that you can get at least a couple of good Amarones in this country at much lower cost than this local version. — IM
Asara website

Bilton Shiraz 2003 R85 14.5
This wine was made before the appointment of a new winemaking team at what is the largest farm in the Helderberg area (140 hectares, 80 under vines). Rianie Strydom (ex-Morgenhof), with Giorgio dalla Cia (ex-Meerlust) have now come in, and it’ll be interesting to see what happens – as this big, exuberant Shiraz is not really in a style one associates with either of them. There’s plenty of everything here: plushness, French and American oak, chewy sweet fruit; and 15% alcohol which makes the finish rather ‘hot’. Over the top for some (heavy and extracted for a demurring AL; good of its type IM thinks more generously), but if you like this ultra-voluptuous style, it should give pleasure for a good few years. – TJ
Bilton website

Constantia Uitsig
• Sauvignon Blanc 2005 R65 (f)  16
• Semillon Reserve 2004 R90(f)  16
We are always delighted to report positively on wines and even happier when we know they should taste just as good for everyone else. Since this well-established Constantia property now bottles its entire white range under screwcaps there should be no problem on that score. Progress with the wines has been most marked since André Rousseau, in charge of the vineyards since 1998, has become fully involved with the winemaking, with the watchful collaboration of John Loubser at Steenberg. Their harmonious working partnership and common sense of purpose is evident in both of these wines (remember Loubser was Diner’s Club Winemaker of the Year in 2003 for the 2002 Uitsig Semillon). Higher vineyards now provide fruit for the sauvignon, resulting in a much more expressive wine showing ripe figs and contrasting grassy, floral zest. Medium bodied with bright, vivacious acid, the richness of fruit countering any sense of harshness. IM was slightly less convinced, whilst I’d willingly give an extra half point. There was less divergence of opinion over the Semillon, another demonstrative wine displaying trademark wild dried grass, lemon and honey aromatics, attractive but still very youthful. Fruit and oak also need time to integrate, but if a couple of days left open in the bottle is any indication, it should have settled by next year and be showing beautifully in 2007. If Rousseau has any concerns, these centre more on any new neighbours from (new part owner) Tokyo Sexwale’s proposed housing estate objecting to night harvesting and the general disturbance of winemaking next door. One hopes they will count themselves lucky to live on such a beautiful property, among vines producing such excellent wines. – AL
Constantia Uitsig website

Fleur du Cap Pinotage 2003 R45 15 !!!
In none of our frequent encounters with this Distell range have we come away disappointed, which is nothing short of amazing in an industry where consistency leaves much to be desired. This Stellenbosch Pinotage maintains the record. What most appeals is its combination of easy-to-spot varietal character captured in a style to attract those who are unfamiliar with (or usually dislike) the grape. It is still very young, as the strong purple, crimson-edged colour suggests, but at the same time the bright redcurrant, summer pudding aromas with their still assertive though complementary oaking are attractively fragrant. A little time is needed for the two to fully harmonise, but it is still a tasty mouthful now and impressed the Michelangelo judges sufficiently for a gold medal. The fruit, fresh, intense and rich without being jammy, is balanced by well handled tannins, providing a firm, clean and dry finish. CvZ and TJ would feel happier with a half point lower rating, while basically agreeing with these comments. – AL
Fleur du Cap website

Glenwood
• Chardonnay Vigneron’s Selection 2004 R85 14
• Shiraz 2004 R80 14               
One of Franschhoek’s leaders in fynbos rehabilitation, this farm (with an astonishingly high annual rainfall of 2000m), first planted in 1989, produced its maiden vintage only in 2002. The Glenwood-grown Chardonnay was whole-bunch-pressed, and fermented over four months in barrel using only wild yeasts; it was then left for a further 11 months without further movement. Perhaps it was the bottle variation resulting from this more risky process that led us to ditch the first bottle as spoilt; the second – though much better – still didn’t show as well as we felt it might have done. Attractive straw-gold in colour, the wine has tangerine and oak vanilla aromas, gravelly acid balancing rich orange-peel flavours, which taper off to an overly sweet and somewhat clumsy finish. While Glenwood’s own shiraz vines mature, winemaker DP Burger sources his fruit from a vineyard between Paarl and Wellington. Fresh, sinewy, dark berry fruit aromas provide immediate appeal, though some flabbiness shows on the palate, which is a touch hollow and disappointing. Drink up while fresh, as chances of the wine improving are slim. — IM
Glenwood website www.glenwoodvineyards.co.za

Paul Cluver Weisser Riesling Noble Late Harvest 2004 375ml R100 (f)  17
The previous vintage of this delicious dessert wine is a hard act to follow. Among other accolades, the 2003 received a Platter five star rating and won a regional trophy at the 2005 Decanter Wine Awards. The good news is that the follow up 2004 will in no way disappoint; it is, of course, different, but that is the nature and much of the joy of wine. In a warmer, drier year, the 04 shows more honeyed spice, enhanced but not smothered by the botrytis that consistently affects these high-lying Elgin vines. The taut acid brilliance that always thrills with good riesling provides an edge of memorable excitement and whistle-clean finish so necessary for balance in sweeter styles. It also carries and prolongs the spicy, citrus peel fruit with great elegance. Enjoyed over two or three days (especially so with strawberries), the wine showed no signs of deterioration; good news in itself, but also promising for its future aging potential. – AL
Paul Cluver website

Paul Wallace Malbec 2004 R57 (direct from Paul Wallace 082-572 1406) 15
Well-regarded viticulturist Paul Wallace, who has recently purchased his own land in Elgin where vineyards are planned, has the advantage in the meantime of sourcing the very best fruit during his consulting visits to top Cape wine farms. In this case, he purchased 2 tons of malbec, vinifying them at Stonewall’s winery in the Helderberg. An opaque core and ruby-pink rim hint at the significant extract and youth of the wine, and complex savoury, medicinal and spicy dark fruit aromas whet the appetite. AL and CvZ were disappointed at the lack of excitement and dimension on the palate, where dry, grippy grape tannins currently mask the fruit flavours. These certainly became more apparent after the bottle had been open a couple of days, boding well for further development in bottle for this ‘food wine’. — IM

Savanha
• Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 R30 13.5 !!!
• Merlot 2004 R30 13
• Shiraz 2004 R30 13
Grapes for this label are mostly sourced in Paarl and Darling, and the wines made in Winecorp's Spier cellar. Historically, Savanha has been Winecorp’s top selling export brand. Today, the company has the local market firmly in its sights and will be working hard to increase its presence on tables in South African restaurant and in consumer trolleys. The target market is, according to the media release, seeking ‘wines that can be enjoyed immediately but have ageing potential’; a quality most of the world’s wines find difficult to achieve unless the producer/consumer’s definition of ‘ageing’ is limited to two rather than 10+ years. We think this trio succeeds in meeting only the first requirement, not a bad thing if you’re looking for a competently crafted tipple that won’t empty your wallet. All three of the wines are very respectable; fresh – thanks to a lively acidity – and fruity, but without the overt jammy aromas of so many of our ‘riper’ wines. They’re just not very exciting. With the variety’s characteristic structure giving it a measure of gravitas, the Cabernet Sauvignon is the most impressive in the line up. It also has a basketful of warm cassis aromas and flavours, scrub and undergrowth. Both the Merlot and the Shiraz have typical aroma/flavour profiles – plums and red berries in the case of the Shiraz, and biltong and dark fruit on the Merlot. The oak tannins, from staves, on all three are gruff and unpolished. Drink up fairly soon to enjoy at their best. – CvZ
Winecorp website

Spier Vintage Selection Malbec-Cabernet Franc-Petit Verdot 2003
R75 15
This third member of the Vintage Selection trio (the other two previously reviewed) derives its sense of difference, and the Spier winemaking team’s goal, from three grapes historically permitted in a Bordeaux blend – but the three most often playing second fiddle to cabernet sauvignon and merlot. The 55/30/15 mix (WO Coastal Region grapes)  is certainly bordeaux-like, with dark fruits like bramble berries from the petit verdot and cabernet franc’s leafy, scrubby notes. Elegant and more refined than its stablemates, it is balanced and well structured with refreshing acidity complementing pure fruit and firm tannins. The oak, a mix of French and American barrels, has been deftly handled.  – CvZ
Spier website

Simonsig Chenin Avec Chêne 2004 R75 14.5
The Malan family have for many years produced a delightfully fruity, unwooded chenin blanc; consistently one of the nicest of its kind. While this style continues to please winelovers’ palates and pockets, Simonsig have now ventured into a style that would fit the Chenin Association’s ‘Rich, off-dry and wooded’ category – the sort of wine that performs particularly well on shows, especially the Chenin Challenge. Would it be cynical to imagine that this wine was expressly designed for this purpose? It certainly is a showy wine: vivid yellow gold in colour with aromas powered by oak and ripe honeyed fruit. Oak and sweetness are currently the dominant characters, showing a boldness we did not care for. A little more delicacy and subtlety is preferable and possible, even in this wooded guise. Nevertheless, Johan Malan is probably spot on when he suggests serving well flavoured cheeses such as Epoisse or Wineland Camembert with his Chenin. – AL
Simonsig website

Whalehaven Cabernet Franc 2004 R72 15
This Hermanus property has been very low key since the Bottega family bought out the other shareholders, including founder Storm Kreusch, in late 2003. It’s possible this quiet period is now over; this Cabernet Franc arrived with all the bells and gongs of a Veritas Double Gold medal. That said, the wine is a bit of a chameleon; when we tasted it together (straight out of the cellar, at around 16ºC) we enjoyed the characteristic leafy, spicy aromas with their touch of tar and the generous, though not overpowering oak. There’s a nice lightness of touch, though we detected a slight finishing bitterness. Once it had warmed up, the glow of 14.5% alcohol and a denser, oakier texture made it a less attractive proposition. Given a further day, it again pulled itself together, though without the depth that would benefit from long ageing. Pull the cork over the next two/three years, preferrably when the wine is quite cool – around 16–18ºC. – AL
Whalehaven website

Zorgvliet Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 R150 (f) 15.5
Zorgvliet nestles in the Banhoek Valley just over the crest of the Helshoogte Pass on the way from Stellenbosch to Simondium, and rubs shoulders with Tokara, Thelema and Delaire. It is owned by Mac and Marietjie van der Merwe but the wines are made by the irrepressible Bruwer Raats. This latest release is as mulberry opaque as those that preceded it. Its bouquet is bold and complex with cassis, mint and forest floor; tinned tomato hints at the beginning of the tertiary characters that will develop with bottle age. The palate is firm, balanced and long; tannins are ripe yet refreshingly astringent. This is a bold, modern style wine expressing its fruit and the experienced hand of its maker rather more than its terroir. I found it also more restrained than Bruwer’s previous offerings, and for that commend it a bit more highly than my fellow tasters. – CvZ
Zorgvliet website

Scoring

Grape’s interpretation of the 20-point rating scale

0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant

10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound

12-13.5: Pleasant enough, good but basically simple quaffer

14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement

16-16.5 Very good wine, offering something special

17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA

18-20  Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest

!!! indicates especially good value

Prices
Prices given are approximate retail in South Africa, except where indicated as ex-farm by (f)

Tasters

TJ – Tim James
AL – Angela Lloyd
IM – Ingrid Motteux
CvZ – Cathy van Zyl