Some summer-sipping whites
21 November 2005

Avondale
• Chenin Blanc 2005 R30 13.5
• Sauvignon Blanc 2005 R40 13
Not surprising that this large farm on the slopes of the Klein Drakenstein Mountains outside Paarl is increasingly turning to organic methods, given that the Grieve family which owns it also owns a large health products business. As to the wines, these two (we’ll review a few of the farm’s reds shortly) are both pleasant enough, genuinely dry whites, sufficiently different from each other but neither showing much typical varietal character. The Chenin has a tropical-fruited nose, and is forceful in presence and flavour, but with a sour green tinge to the taste – adding, perhaps, to the fresh and refreshing quality given by the bright acidity, which some found rather hard and excessive. Not much charm, really. Acidity is also prominent on the Sauvignon – AL and IM, particularly, felt it out of sync here. Although substance is lacking, there are fresh and vibrant grapefruit notes – not unwelcome, but a little surprising in this variety. A point in favour of these wines is their moderate alcohol (by today’s standards): both under 13% – TJ

Gôiya D-Lite-Ful Brut R28 10
Market-savvy wineries Vredendal and Spruitdrift wineries, together forming West Coast wine giant Westcorp, have added the first Weigh-Less endorsed sparkling wine to their low calorie Gôiya D-Lite-Ful range – part of the internationally successful Gôiya (pronounced something like ‘hoya’) range. Weigh-Less adherents in need of something with which to charge their glasses will be able to exchange one serving of their daily complex carbohydrate allowance for a (120ml) glass of this intensely bubbled (méthode pomp-de-bicyclette), low alcohol (9%) blend of chenin blanc and 5% hanepoot, or the rosé chenin-pinotage version (not tasted). Soda water might be cheaper and only slightly less characterful than this than this wine, but might not provide the same sense of festive cheer. Best served with orange juice? — IM
Website

Groot Constantia Grand Constance 2003 R150 (375ml) 16
Launched to mark the 320^th anniversary of the Groot Constantia estate, Groot Constance turns for inspiration to the Estate’s famous original sweet wines, and blends red and white muscat de Frontignan grapes picked extremely ripe. A point of difference, this, from the well-established Vin de Constance produced by neighbour Klein Constantia, which uses only white grapes: sensibly Groot Constantia is trying to do something a bit different. These grapes are fermented in French oak, filtered and then aged in the same barrels for 18 months. Gerber makes no mention of botrytis in his winemaking notes, and we found none. A lively ginger colour, the wine is sure to attract attention in the glass. Its packaging, too, is rather smart and manages to convey age and reverence. The wine’s bouquet is charming, with white peaches, almonds, orange blossoms and barley sugar. Its palate is a little less impressive; there’s toffee and marzipan but not much weight or structure, suggesting it might not have great staying power. – CvZ
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Idiom Viognier 2004 R96 (f) 13.5
Whalehaven owner Alberto Bottega sources all grapes for his Idiom range from his young Stellenbosch (Sir Lowry’s Pass) Da Capo vineyards, while fellow Italian Giorgio dalla Cia advises winemaker Paul Engelbrecht in the Whalehaven cellar. Other wines in the Idiom range include the Shiraz-Mourvèdre-Viognier previously reviewed, and varietal bottlings of sangiovese, zinfandel and shiraz – to re reviewed here shortly. This paw-paw perfumed, barrel fermented Viognier pleased Veritas and Trophy Wine Show judges sufficiently to be awarded modest bronze medals at both shows, also taking best viognier at the latter. Perhaps the vigorous oak regime (10 months spent in 60% new French and the rest 2^nd fill American) contributes to the high price and clumsiness (we feel) of this wine. AL finds the varietal hallmarks lacking in terms of character and texture, and we all agree that the unyielding, unintegrated acid contributes to an awkward character that detracts from the wine’s pleasantness. — IM
Website

Ken Forrester Sauvignon Blanc 2005 R38 14
The chenin from this gregarious Helderberg-based producer has just been named by American foodie magazine Bon Appetit as one of the wines to accompany the elaborate Thanksgiving dinner detailed in its latest issue. This sauvignon blanc is probably as food friendly as the chenin; given its creamy texture, oysters with a squeeze of lemon and black pepper would be my first choice. From 22-year old Stellenbosch vineyards, it has a distinct sauvignon nose of tropical fruits, some dustiness and fynbos, but no aggressive ‘sweatiness’ or greenpepper/asparagus aromas. Thanks to a touch (4.1 grams per litre) of residual sugar, sauvignon’s characteristic zippy acidity appears far softer than other examples rated at the same sitting. AL thought it a touch phenolic on the palate but we all agreed it is eminently drinkable. – CvZ
Website

Kumkani Lanner Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2005 R90 (f) 17.5
A year or so back, Vinfruco and Stellenbosch Vineyards merged to form Omnia Wines, a move which resulted in considerable change and rationalisation as businessmen did what businessmen do when they have to prove that the merged entity is bigger, better and more profitable than its predecesors. One of the changes is the introduction of this wine: previously bottled as Credo Groenekloof, it brought winemaker Nicky Versfeld much acclaim – and deservedly so. The grapes were – and continue to be – sourced from Lanner Hill, a single vineyard in the Groenekloof ward. Its new packaging is classy, and so is the wine it contains. Its pungent, New Zealand-like aroma is very powerful, but there is also a wet stone and ruby grapefruit character that adds depth and interest; AL and TJ also found greengage. In the mouth, however, the wine tastes and feels more ‘local’. The mineral character asserts itself and the palate is intense, steely. It has gravitas and is well poised suggesting it will improve with cellaring. This excellent wine certainly lives up to its marketing promise ‘Born in Africa, sought after internationally’. Keep an ice bucket handy, though, whenever you drink it as the relativey high alcohol of 14.5% shows itself as the wine warms. – CvZ
(Surprisingly for a 'dynamic' company, the Omnia website is still 'under construction'...)

M’hudi
• Chenin Blanc 2005 R29 13.5
• Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (R37 from Villiera) 14.5
The attraction of the scenic Western Cape and the lifestyle enjoyed in the winelands has lured many from up north, though few quite like the Rangaka family – Oupa and Mommsie, as they introduce themselves, and budding winemaker son, Tseliso, who left behind a life as an advertising copywriter. Well-educated, though with no previous experience of farming or winemaking and not even winedrinkers, this family of less than millionaire means could not afford, even if they wished, to build a sensational winery and plant high-tech vineyards from scratch. Vredelust, the Stellenbosch farm they eventually purchased left much to be desired; with one positive feature its proximity to the Grier family at Villiera.

What more helpful or informed people could the Rangakas have turned to for assistance and advice, not only in revitalising their run-down vineyards, but also in mentoring Tseliso in his first winemaking steps in the Villiera cellar? With the usual Grier hospitality, they also helped the Rangakas launch their maiden wines. The chenin grapes, from the best bush vines on Vredelust, were harvested very ripe and with a touch of botrytis, as the strong yellow gold colour and rich, honey-brushed aromas evidence. Bold, yes, but also with interesting dimension. Such ripeness anticipates pleasurable succulence, which, nicely balanced by fresh acid, is there; unfortunately, so is a forceful 15 per cent alcohol, resulting in a somewhat glowing, abrupt finish. This worried IM more than the rest of us. The Rangakas’ sauvignon vines were not up to scratch in time for 2005, so the team looked elsewhere for grapes. The choice of distant Elim might have provided some logistical problems but the effort has proved worthwhile; a brilliant translucent colour, minerals and wild, dried grass signal its cool climate origin. It has really nice, natural acid; the flavours are delicate yet persistent with dry, upbeat length – only a certain thinness prevents a higher rating.

M’hudi derives from the Setswana word ‘mohudi’ meaning harvester. It is also the name of the heroine in Sol Plaatje’s great African story. On her journey, after fleeing her war-ravaged village, M’hudi encounters the unknown and dangerous but also finds friends. She shows courage, determination against seemingly impossible odds and relentless pursuit of her dreams and aspirations. The story is a reflection of both South Africa today and the charming, friendly Rangakas’ leap into a new lifestyle and culture. – AL

Scoring

Grape’s interpretation of the 20-point rating scale

0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant

10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound

12-13.5: Pleasant enough, good but basically simple quaffer

14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement

16-16.5 Very good wine, offering something special

17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA

18-20  Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest

!!! indicates especially good value

Prices
Prices given are approximate retail in South Africa, except where indicated as ex-farm by (f)

Tasters

TJ – Tim James
AL – Angela Lloyd
IM – Ingrid Motteux
CvZ – Cathy van Zyl