RECENT RELEASES
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Autumn releases
Bilton
This year
records Mark Bilton’s 10th anniversary at this property in
the swish Helderberg neighbourhood, while this Cabernet was made in the
year Bilton celebrated being shortlisted for the IWSC SA Wine Producer
of the Year. Perhaps it is in a style that was more popular back then,
with its soupy opaque core and ripe mulberry, abundantly-toasted oak
aromas, but for us the predictably super-ripe, extracted fruit and
noticeably high alcohol is unappealing and lacking in freshness – not
even redeemed by the acidity, which to JP appeared artificial. AL
suggests this prime location should be offering a great deal more –
which no doubt the new team of Giorgio dalla Cia and Rianie Strydom (ex
Morgenhof) will try their best to deliver. – IM
Clos Malverne Seymour Pritchard bought Clos Malverne in the Devon Valley Ward of Stellenbosch in 1969; until Jeremy Walker (now of Grangehurst) persuaded him to make his own wine, Pritchard sold grapes to SFW. Walker was appointed full-time winemaker and the first wine to be released under this label was the 1988 Cabernet Sauvignon. Made by present winemaker IP Smit, this abundantly medalled Limited Release testifies to the early successes: a couple of stickers for its Grand Champion General Smuts Trophy 2001 at the SA National Young Wine Show and the more recent Winemaker’s Choice Diamond Award 2005 and Calyon Trophy Bordeaux Blend Top Ten. A total of 30 000 litres of that SANYWS was produced, 500 cases of which were labelled as Limited Release and offered in March 2003 at an aspirational R230. The current ‘new’ release represents a portion held back from the market for a further three years in order to ‘reach its full potential’, and released to mark the anniversary of Clos Malverne’s 21st harvest (at a much reduced price).
Its colour
shows some development, as do the fruit cake spice and herbal notes.
Spicy oak and red fruit flavours, well balanced by decent tannin and
acidity, finish with a pleasant savouriness. The wine drinks well now
but doesn’t show sufficient potential for further improvement, a
characteristic we would hope for at the price. We all like it well
enough, though would wish for more interest at his price (JP calls it a
‘paint-by-numbers’ wine). – IM
Herold Wines The South African wine industry has gained not only in size but also in interest since the termination of the quota system and opening up of international markets encouraged exploration into areas where no vines were previously grown. That includes high on the Montagu Pass outside George, where brother-and-sister team Mark Chandler and Vivien Harpur bottled their first wines three short years ago. At around 600 cases, this is winemaking on a seriously small and artisanal scale. The pinot’s dullish hue suggests a wine of greater age than it actually is. While the rhubarb, strawberry and macerated cherry aromas lend some varietal authenticity, overall it lacks concentration and is rather coarse, dominated by its obvious 14.5% alcohol. The Shiraz has more real substance, a youthful, opaque colour and thick, extracted texture. Asian spices, pepper and a kind of dark fruit marmalade are lifted by a fresh acid, which we agree offers some ageing potential (though TJ took a much less positive view than the rest of us). We also tasted the 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, but the wine appeared cloudy and out of condition. Regrettably, without a second bottle to compare, we do not feel it is fair to comment. – JP
Joostenberg The Myburgh family deservedly attract favourable comments and new fans for their wines (their Joostenberg Deli and Bistro, long a `must visit’ destination, is where these may now be tasted and purchased); this white and red Paarl duo will further establish their growing reputation. They are also ahead of the higher-priced pack, using screwcap closures on both smartly presented wines. The Fairhead, a fashionable white blend, is a happy composition of 55% chenin blanc, an influential 38% viognier and 7% chardonnay, each fermented in older oak on their own yeasts. This results in interest and complexity with viognier’s apricot and honeysuckle evident in the subtle aromatic fragrance and rich, satiny texture. Although rich and flavoursome, a freshening thread of minerality creates a very food-friendly style. TJ recommends the mussels in a broth served at a recent Joostenberg lunch while sommelier, JP suggests fusion food such as butterfish and coriander.
Our regret
with the Shiraz Viognier is that it has been released so young. Its
unreadiness is possibly why TJ finds the white grape’s fragrance
dominating the pure but still primary aromas of red fruits and lilies;
we feel they will harmonise with a further year to 18 months. It’s
intriguing that the 7% viognier component was co-fermented with the
shiraz as was the 11% in the La Motte (see below), but in the latter
wine, vigonier is barely discernible, suggesting both that an extra year
before release is beneficial and that, possibly, the actual amount of
viognier is not the crucial element in its effect. But the Joostenberg
has charm and elegance, combining light texture with substance and form.
These support rather than dominating the layers of spicy, savoury
flavours with their kirschwasser (cherry) overtones. As in the Fairhead,
there’s a core focusing thread of minerality (due to the vineyard yeast
ferment?) encouraging greater individuality. Expect further improvement
until around 2010. – AL
La
Motte
This new, premium range from Franschhoek winery La Motte honours the memory of celebrated South African artist Jacob Hendrik Pierneef (1886-1957). An example of his work decorates the back label of each of the above wines; a further selection hangs in the cellar complex. The 2005 Sauvignon, a second crop from an organically farmed vineyard in Bot River, was somewhat controversial here. I find it a particularly good food style; there’s more emphasis on weight and lees richness than showy fruit with a dry, rounded finish. JP and TJ were less satisfied; JP thinks it lacks concentration.
Shiraz-viognier blends are very much the fashion. Here the 11% white
grape component is well integrated and balanced, a positive character
that may derive from the two varieties – shiraz from Darling and
viognier from Franschhoek – ripening at the same time and being
co-fermented. Although both TJ and IM find a rather commerical
generosity of sweet fruit we did wonder if there was an oxidation
problem with our bottle as the wine seemed a bit dull and lacking
freshness. More shiraz savoury, smoked meat character developed after a
few hours but it doesn’t have an abundance of personality (as opposed to
being a showy wine), which for this price and the care with which it was
made – oaking is thankfully subtle – one would expect. –
AL
Cape Point Vineyards
Scarborough used to be
name Cape Point Vineyards used for the second-best versions of the white
wines for which they have become so deservedly well known. Now it’s
reserved for reds, of which this Cab-based blend (with 27% shiraz and a
drop of merlot) is the first. And a fine beginning too, especially at
this price. It is, in fact, a much more serious wine than the price
might signal, and more in keeping with the handsome, restrained elegance
of the packaging. It is vinous rather than simply fruity, with notes of
tobacco as well as herbaceous hints along with the red-berried fruit,
and quite a whack of tannin. The wood (mostly older barrels, but some
new) is already well integrated. Not a fun wine, and it really needs a
few years ageing to fully bring out its charm (it developed very well in
the bottle over a few days) and definitely wants a vigorous decanting
now – but if you like a touch of rich austerity, this is a terrific
bargain from the Cape Peninsula’s most southerly vineyards.
– TJ
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Scoring Grape’s interpretation of the 20-point rating scale 0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant 10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound 12-13.5: Pleasant enough, decent but basically simple quaffer 14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement 16-16.5 Very good wine, offering something special 17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA 18-20 Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest !!! indicates especially good value
Prices Tasters
TJ – Tim James JP – Guest taster Jörg Pfützner, sommelier at Aubergine restaurant in Cape Town For more information regarding the tasting procedures, tasters, etc, see the Recent releases contents page |
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