A winter tasting 28 June 2006

Bosman, Cellar-Vie, Graham Beck, Lutzville, Tamboerskloof, Van Loveren, Vinum  and a few Italians from Woolworths

Bosman Family Vineyards
• Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 R85 16
A maiden release from the eponymous Bosman family – owners of a vast vine nursery business in Wellington. It’s a return to an older business however: wines were last made on the property some fifty years back, since when the grapes produced went to the co-op (some of them ending up in the La Cave wine of Wamakersvallei). Now the old cellar has been extensively renovated. There’s good varietal character in the wine, with violets and cassis struggling quite successfully against rather too much oak. Luscious, ripe, sweet fruit balanced by some forceful tannins and a fresh acidity. A promising debut – at a reasonable rather than unreasonably aspirational price. It improved a good deal after being open a day or two and should be vigorously decanted well in advance if its to be drunk in its youth.
–TJ
• Website

Cellar-Vie
• Commitment Reserve 2004 R120 13
The Cellar-Vie venture was conceived beside a pool in Ghana by flight attendant and former Olympic skier Hendri Nagel, and bio-oil engineer Adam Simcock. Bartho Eksteen made the maiden 2003 which flew SAA 1^st class this May, while Teddy Hall saw the 2004 blend of Stellenbosch-sourced cabernet and merlot (53:47) into new French oak for two years. The brightly coloured label (the leopard in a series of the ‘Big 5’) was painted by wildlife artist Keith Joubert. The high extract is immediately manifested in the wine’s opaque core. When swilled in the glass, it reveals pronounced volatile menthol and raspberry fruit aromas. The discernibly lean but sweet red fruit on the palate is currently overwhelmed by oak flavours and a rasping acidity: as both succeed in throwing the wine out of balance, its future doesn’t look very rosy.
— IM

Durbanville Hills
• Pinotage 2004 R42 13.5

Winemaker Martin Moore believes the pinot parentage of this local variety is brought to the fore by the coolness of the maritime-influenced hills of Durbanville. Here a youthfully pink rim edges a ruby core, and savoury, spicy red fruit aromas precede the fresh, firm, sweet-sour cherry flavours with (second-fill) oak providing a subtle backdrop. The producer claims 8 years’ potential, but we believe the commercial style in which the wine has been made warrants significantly less. AL & CvZ appreciated the fruity friendliness and lack of pretension.TJ dissented somewhat, finding the wine clumsy, and was put off by acetone notes.
— IM
• Website

Graham Beck
• Railroad Red 2005 R36  14.5 !!!
• The Joshua 2003 R137 15

This duo from the Graham Beck Robertson and Franschhoek cellars represent both ends of the stylistic scale. The Railroad Red, a shiraz, cabernet sauvignon blend, is aimed at those who are looking for immediate drinkability with substance and flavour at a good price. A goal cellarmaster Peter Ferreira and his team certainly achieve. The clear ruby colour pleases, as do the forward but not showy red fruits and cassis aromas with their brush of oak. If not complex, the flavours are fresh and satisfying while the smooth yet firm tannins round off the wine with pleasant savouriness.

The Joshua (the eponymous Graham Beck’s second name) is altogether more ambitious, as the heavyweight bottle suggests. It is one of the currently trendy shiraz-viognier blends, this with 9% of the white grape. Many of the teething problems associated with this combination relate to waiting for the shiraz to ripen, by which stage the viognier has reached mammoth proportions of potential alcohol. Invariably this gives the wine a gruff, alcoholic edge. Another problem is how much viognier to add, a little going a very long way and too much imposing unwanted varietal perfume and flavours on the shiraz. Regrettably, this wine to some extent falls into both traps: alcohol weighs in at 15.45% and viognier’s apricot fruit emerges rather too emphatically; these leave a sweetish, hot finish. Such a big and young wine of course needs time to settle – both oak and tannin are further reminders of this. After a day or so the wine still gave few clues, although the dark pepper character and rich texture of shiraz became more noticeable. But it will be important to catch this wine in what will probably be a short window of maturity. IM noted that she likes the fruit in the 03, having found the viognier and alcohol more obvious in the preceding vintage.
— AL
• Website

Lutzville
• Sauvignon Blanc 2006 R18 12
• Chenin Blanc 2006 R16 12
• Chardonnay 2006 R18 13 !!!
• Pinotage 2005 R20 13 !!!
• Shiraz 2005 R20 13 !!! (all farm prices
This Olifants River co-op (Lutzville Cape Diamond Vineyards to give it all the grandeur of its full name) is the second largest cellar in the Cape, though a mere 20 000 cases of its wines carry its label. For many it’s an established favourite source of good value wines – and we won’t argue with that, though we thought the reds we tasted best fitted that category on the whole. ‘Good background wine’ was one offered characterisation of the vaguely pleasant, rather neutral Chenin. The Sauvignon Blanc was rather more assertive, though what was refreshing tartness for some of us was ‘searing acidity’ for CvZ. Dilute, a bit insipid – but it’s dry and a mere 12% alcohol might help it appeal to the diet-conscious luncher. The unwooded Chardonnay was much nicer: quite gentle (perhaps too soft, even), with good varietal character of scented orange-blossom. Don’t delay drinking these much longer.

There are cheerful fresh aromas and flavours on the countrified Pinotage, and dry, forceful tannins (at best, that is: aggressive and splintery said IM, less tolerantly). But nice clean mulberryish fruit untrammelled by wood. The Shiraz has some light American oaking, revealing itself in a whiff or two of vanilla; it’s an honest, unpretentious wine, with pleasant, cleanly fresh flavours over a reasonably firm structure, more savoury than fruity. At these prices, it’s perhaps worth a trip up the West Coast to get a carload.
— TJ
• Website

Tamboerskloof
• Syrah 2003 R76 14.5
Kleinood is a small farm with some prestigious neighbours – Stellenzicht, Waterford and Dornier. Owner Gerard de Villiers has designed and constructed cellars for many others in the past (including Graham beck and Distell), and this is the first wine to emerge from his own. Behind the stylishly simple label is a pleasant wine which responds well to some aeration – it improved over a day or so of sampling, though never gained great heights. Some of the grapes were from Wellington – no doubt helping to account for the very ripe notes. A spicy-oaky nose (from 14 months in mixed oak, a third new) with some red fruit lurking about, leads to a maybe over-tannic and -acidic palate, with a sweet-savoury finish. But nothing too excessive, for good or ill.
— TJ

Van Loveren
• Papillon Brut NV R29 13
• Five’s Reserve Chenin Blanc 2006 R25 13.5
• Five’s Reserve Merlot Rosé 2006 R25 12.5
• Five’s Reserve Pinotage 2005 R30 13.5
• Five’s Reserve Cabernet-Merlot 2005 R30 13
The enduringly popular Robertson label (it's the largest family-owned wine brand in South Africa) is celebrating its 25^th year of production, and reaping the benefits of the Retiefs’ sustained effort to establish a strong local market. This year also marks the establishment of their BEE land initiative, and launch of their Five’s Reserve range, which is a quarter owned by the De Goree Employees Trust. Depicting the assembled 'big five' on the labels, the range comprises four wines and a brandy.

The sparkling colombar-sauvignon Brut (part of the Papillon range of bubblies) offers a generous mousse, without the numbing fizziness prevalent in many carbonated bubblies. Fragrant floral aromas, a just-off-dry finish, and its simple charm make it a good bet for parties, as well as an affordable base for Bucks fizz.

The agreeable, pale-straw coloured, screwcapped Chenin offers abundant confected, boiled sweet aromas, with pleasant pineapple and tropical fruit flavours, and a sweetish finish (balanced by sufficient acidity), delivering a soft and decent quaffer with modest 12.5% alcohol.

As for the pale, onion-skin pink Merlot Rosé, there is sufficient structure, character and balance to make it an enjoyable anytime-wine (a screwcap here would be particularly handy for picnics).

CvZ found the youthful, ruby coloured Pinotage somewhat ungenerous, though the uncomplicated fresh red-berry fruit aromas appealed to the rest of us, followed by its raspberry tartness, spiciness, and stave-like tannins.

Last in the line-up, a 55:44 blend of cabernet and merlot proved to be an acceptable, softly structured easy drinker, with bright acidity counteracting plummy fruitiness. Although all these wines are built for the short-term, we are predictably gratified by the consistency and affordability of this range – though we didn’t think them spectacularly good value.
— IM
• Website

Vinum
• Chenin Blanc 2005 R50 16.5
One of South Africa’s generally most under-rated chenins, mainly because Alex Dale, co-owner of The Winery, doesn’t enter competitions; nor, generally, is this wine spoken about with the same regularity and enthusiasm as others with a higher profile. Yet it has shown remarkable consistency since the maiden 2001, its defining characteristics being aromatic delicacy combined with concentration and richness of structure. The constant has been the grape source: old, dryland bush vines on the Helderberg. In a hot dry vintage like 2005 these vines held their own thanks to their deep root systems. Oak plays a role but is sensitively judged to add richness rather than dominate; the 5% of the wine fermented (and matured nine months on lees) in new oak, plus a highish 14.5% alcohol lend a strong buttery straw colour. Multi-layered aromas include honey, citrus and a piquant floral note (elderflower for those who know this European plant). There’s a sense of weight and texture with freshness, both of which lend good definition. Balance, polish and persistence are further attributes. Still quite closed, a rewarding future appears assured.
— AL
• Website

Woolworths
• Feudo Arancio Grillo 2004 R39.95 15.5 !!!
• Rocca Nero d’Avola 2004 R39.95  14 !!!
• Castello della Paneretta Chianti Classico 2003 R89.95 15

Have you noticed how Woolworths is into Italy in a big way? Not just in the food department, but on the wine-shelves too. Some have been blended under the guiding hand of their maestro Selection manager, Allan Mullins, but importer Stefano Gabba of Melgab International has sourced this trio. Only the Chianti is not a Woolies exclusive.

What they primarily offer the winelover unfamiliar with Italian wines is an affordable opportunity to savour something completely different. If some or none appeal (doubtful), well, it’s not going to break the bank.

Sicilian wine generates many compliments these days; this grillo should show why. Grillo, a white grape, and cataratto go into the fortified wine, Marsala. While this is declining in popularity, grillo produces a very decent, dry table wine on its own. Its appearance is as bright as the Sicilian sunshine and there’s also a sense of warmth in its dried herbs and gentle tropical tones. It is fresh but also has some creamy richness, with a tuck of grip to the dry finish adding interest – though IM noted a short finish More vinous than fruity, and medium-bodied, all combine to make it very food friendly – a virtue of Italian wines generally. For early drinking.

The red nero d’avola is also from Sicily, and the red of the moment as far as Italian varieties go. The antithesis of modern thick, oaky monsters, the tone of this light textured, medium-bodied wine is set by the clear cherry hue. While we all agree on its unpretentiousness, there is satisfaction in the warm dried herb, aniseed and fennel attractions, delicious gamey finish. Drink and enjoy now.

Chianti is a far more familiar name on the Italian map. Paneretta, 90% sangiovese and 10 per cent canaiolo, is a respectable example of Chianti Classico at a reasonable price; if only the vintage had played ball! As every winemaker in Europe knows, 2003 was extremely unusual and one of the hottest on record; many didn’t know how to cope in such conditions. As a result, many wines are atypical, which to an extent is how we’d describe this Chianti. For a start, it’s slightly darker than one would expect. Surprisingly, the alcohol is a more-or-less normal 13%, so there’s no sense of heaviness and the balanced acid is fresh and savoury. It seems to be sangiovese’s traditional sour cherry intensity, that gives Chianti its focus and definition, that is missing, though there are some residual hints. Drink now or wait and watch developments over the next two or three years.
— AL
• Websites: • Woolworths   • Melgab International

Scoring

Grape’s interpretation of the 20-point rating scale

0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant

10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound

12-13.5: Pleasant enough, decent but basically simple quaffer

14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement

16-16.5 Very good wine, offering something special

17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA

18-20  Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest

!!! indicates especially good value

Prices
Prices given are approximate retail in South Africa, except where indicated as ex-farm by (f)

Tasters

TJ – Tim James
AL – Angela Lloyd
IM – Ingrid Motteux
CvZ – Cathy van Zyl