RECENT RELEASES
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Pricey stuff
Maiden releases of ultra-premium wines
from Glen Carlou and Hartenberg
Glen
Carlou Imposing and impressive are two descriptors that immediately come to mind with this new single vineyard, flagship duo from cellarmaster David Finlayson; their lofty price tags are a more practical reminder! Such adjectives are just as apt when applied to the re-furbished Glen Carlou cellar and tasting venue, which now also houses a selection of owner, Donald Hess's vast contemporary art collection. ‘The extreme make-over of the year,' as Finlayson describes it. The wines steer a steadier course, reflective of Glen Carlou's consistent quality, these with a touch of extra gloss (not a negative). Of the pair, we considered the chardonnay the more distinctive, its bright, forthcoming limey toastiness full of incipient complexity; natural ferment doubtless aiding this cause. Although intense and with a firm, steely core there is also plenty of silky, rich substance which time will more fully knit. Far from being over the top, it shows some classic restraint – aided by what is today described as ‘moderate’ alcohol of 13.5%. It says much for the wine's structure that none of us noted any residual sweetness; the firm acid and low pH see to it that nearly 5 grams of sugar are neatly swept under the fruit. As one might expect of a wine at this price, the French barrels were all new; but the wine has all that is necessary to cope. Expect all this youthful promise to be realised around 2010. The Cabernet, with lift from a 7% splash of petit verdot, comes from one of the Cape's recent exceptionally hot, dry years. Yet there is no sense of over-ripeness found in many wines nor are the tannins overdone, which doesn't mean to say it lacks the unyielding tightness of a youthful cabernet, it's just those ripe tannins suggest they will eventually give way to the earthy, dark fruit characters. A thread of minerality emphasises an overall fresh impression and, again, the concentration of ripe fruit is well able to handle its 16 month evolution in new French oak. A special occasion wine that deserves to be left until around 2009-11 before finding such an event. – AL
Hartenberg Hartenberg, one of a group of properties along the warm Bottelary Hills area of Stellenbosch, is a stalwart of the South African industry, consistently producing reliable and tasty wines. The first bottling under the Hartenberg label was nearly 30 years ago in 1978, prior to that the wine was sold under the Montagne label. This ultra-premium range honours names from its past; the wines themselves herald the future. Eleanor Finlayson, from the Montagne era (and mother to winemakers Walter and Peter), gives her name to the Chardonnay while the Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot recognises the Mackenzie family, who acquired the estate in 1986. The Shiraz honours the late Ken Mackenzie, widely acknowledged as the man responsible for its rejuvenation since then. ‘Stork’ was his wartime nickname; he and his three brothers all flew with the SAAF in World War 2. Carl Schultz, cellarmaster since 1994, is the man immediatley behind this expensive trio. But no doubt the real question is if they are worth the money. The answer is ‘yes, maybe’, if you are a fan of the style. The 17 barrels of Eleanor Chardonnay comes from seven year old vines which mix Burgundian and Californian clones. Each was vinified separately in new French barriques, where the wine spent ten months, the last three as a blend. Intense lemon butter, lime and vanilla are evident on both nose and taste, these highlighted by a brisk freshness due to only a small portion being softened by malo-lactic fermentation. Although welcomingly dry, the finish is presently dominated by the vanilla flavour of new oak. Well balanced, with 13.5% alcohol and considerable fruit supporting the oak, so we have hopes that fruit and oak will merge and the wine gain in length over the next five years. In contrast, the 19-barrel debut vintage of the single vineyard The Mackenzie Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot is already showing its true colours. The cabernet, from its favoured deeper, drier section of the vineyard and the merlot, from the shallower clay rich, moisture-retaining part, were fermented separately and cosseted for 20 months in new French oak. Thanks to bleeding off some juice, and cold-soaking juice and skins prior to fermentation, the wine is almost opaque. The nose is alluring with wafts of mint, lavender and ripe black berries and plums. The palate, too, exhibits these fruit characteristics; it also has a solid mineral core and a whack of tannin on the finish. This 70/30 blend has oodles of personality. It is modern but elegant, layered and very serious with sufficient fruit to stand up to the oak and 14.5 % alcohol. At least five years in the cellar will reward those with the patience to refrain from opening it now. Hartenberg has something of a reputation for shiraz, and the first, 20-barrel bottling of The Stork joins a regular version and the cool sited Gravel Hill. At 15.5% alcohol, it's showy and powerful, with muscular fruit tannins, charred oak aromas and a touch of saltiness on the palate. Again, bleeding off some juice and cold soaking prior to fermentation has achieved great concentration but also good balance, though the 20 month spell in barrel lends more of an oaky profile than in the Bordeaux blend. TJ particularly found it pretty difficult to actually drink, however. We find the fruit presently takes a back seat leaving winemaking rather than vineyard character to the fore. We mostly agree that it needs until 2010 to begin showing the underlying fruit, though Schulz recommends leaving it until 2015. – CvZ
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Scoring Grape’s interpretation of the 20-point rating scale 0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant 10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound 12-13.5: Pleasant enough, decent but basically simple quaffer 14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement 16-16.5 Very good wine, offering something special 17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA 18-20 Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest !!! indicates especially good value
Prices Tasters
TJ – Tim James RP – Guest taster Roland Peens of the Wine Cellar in Observatory, Cape Town For more information regarding the tasting procedures, tasters, etc, see the Recent releases contents page |
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