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Some early spring drinking – Part 1
Wines from Bilton, Blank Bottle,
Delheim, De Waal, Durbanville Hills,
Bilton The first white from red specialist Bilton, the property tucked between Annandale and Rust en Vrede on the slopes of the Helderberg, was made by new winemaker Rudi de Wet with consultative input from Giorgio Dalla Cia, a red specialist himself. But Dalla Gia too produces a sauvignon under his own local label (it's a variety that's particularly popular in the Italian province of Friuli, Dalla Cia's home terroritory), so there's plenty of experience and Italian simpatico behind this wine. There’s a great deal to like about it as well – delicate tropical fruit aromas and flavours, food-friendly brisk acidity, screw cap. It was initially very shy and slightly brimstony, possibly because it had just been bottled. Later, it opened up in the glass to reveal soft melon and floral tones highlighted by vanilla and almonds from the 15% barrel matured semillon portion. This grape brings some palate richness lifted by sauvignon’s zesty lemon acidity. A lovely summer sipping wine with fish dishes and salads, it's not a contender for the serious sauvignon throne but certainly fresh and fun and good of its type. The price too won’t have you dipping too deep into your pocket, clearly another attraction. – CvZ
Blank Bottle
Delheim
Cooler climate sauvignon blanc seems to be the fashion these days. This one attempts to capture cool climate characters but isn't entirely successful. Part appears to have been picked early to achieve this, but the lemon and lime characters point to a huge acidity (8.2g/l in fact) and hide the tropical fruit which makes local sauvignons so enjoyable. CvZ was a little more positive, enjoying the wine's lively character. The rosé, which long preceeded the current global demand for the style, definitely hits the ‘fun’ rather than the serious button. Youthful memories of sharing the first Delheim rosé with a lady friend are of the sweet fruit, freshness and easy-drinking aspects: she lauded it with 19/20! Not too much has changed though it doesn’t warrant such a score. The method of colour extraction by leaving juice in contact with the skins imparts a little too much bitterness for me but it is clean and fresh with bundles of strawberries and cranberries and a solid juicy finish; the few grams of residual sugar gives a bit more bounce. Interestingly the 10% blended muscat doesn’t make an obvious statement. The shiraz is a whole lot more serious, the grapes sourced from the Vera Cruz estate vineyards on the warmer Klapmutskop. The dry 2003 vintage produced flashy, fruit-coated wines in much of Stellenbosch and ‘flashy’ seems to be the best descriptor here. Once a little mustiness (CvZ also found this) dissipates, blueberries and spice sneak through along with the spice and vanillin of expensive (American and French) oak. TJ finds the oak a little overpowering, hiding the true varietal expression. The wine is weighty and powerful with layers of fruit. We all commented on the possibility of Brettanomyces, for some added (and problematic?) complexity, though it wasn’t obtrusive. Though classy and refined, this shiraz doesn’t have quite the austerity and tannin for long-term aging. – RP
De Waal Daniël de Waal's experience working in Bordeaux has influenced all the red wines he produces at the family farm, Uiterwyk. This includes the three varietal pinotages and two blends incorporating the local grape with shiraz and merlot: each shows pleasing restraint, fine, gently-handled tannins and some elegance. Of the pinotage trio, this 2004 represents the regular bottling. Its light texture, freshness and fine tannins are complemented by pure yet quiet raspberry tones, more a reflection of its pinot noir than cinsaut heritage. Oak is not overdone, though noticeable in that its sweet flavours persist on the finish; something of a benefit for those, like CvZ, who also pick up some bitterness. It is well made in a style that doesn't need and wouldn't benefit from lengthy maturation, a year or two at most. The Merlot, in a similar light-textured, fresh style, drew conflicting opinions as to when it will make best drinking. Both CvZ and I feel, despite the firm tannins, it is ready now; TJ finds the tannins too prominent but we all doubt whether there is sufficient substance to hold while the wine softens with age. Young vines are not a factor; in 2003 the vineyard was 20 years old, but the sweet red plum, dark chocolate character, although reasonably intense, lacks depth. A suitable dish is probably the solution to suit both wine and consumer; poultry or light meat, its preparation neither too heavy or rich. – AL
Durbanville Hills Members of the Durbanville Wine Valley Association are inclined to fancy themselves as producers of pretty classy sauvignon blanc and, with offerings like this lining up next to those from Bloemendal and Nitida, for example, we tend to concur. This sauvignon is the high volume (±26 000 cases) version; the Rhinofields and Biesjes Craal bottlings are made in more limited quantities and are somewhat more distinctive. That’s not to say that this is not a smart wine at a reasonable price: it is. It has a bright entry with a vibrant array of fruit aromas and flavours – lashings of asparagus, capsicum, white pepper and granadilla – a zesty acidity, hint of austerity on the mid-palate and incredibly long finish. Enjoy it young. Bastion, on the other hand, should benefit from a handful of years. Named for the vantage point at the winery resembling the bastions of the Castle of Good Hope, it’s a 60/40 blend of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz matured between 12 (for the shiraz) and 18 months in new Fr oak. At a friendly – yes, friendly compared to the 14.5% and 15.5% offerings out there – 13.5% alcohol, this is dark-fruited, vanilla scented, unpretentious and refreshing; just the kind of wine we could imagine ourselves finishing with dinner.It has some eucalyptus notes, and a little detracting ‘green stick’ bite to the finish, but it hangs together very well. ‘Lip-smackingly good now, more complex in three years’ is our final conclusion. – CvZ
Fleur
du Cap Committed terroiristes need read no further. They would be horrified that winemaker Kobus Gerber could even consider co-blending what he refers to as (three) ‘terroir-specific vineyards' and thus destroying the individuality of each in an amorphous melting pot! Such a view would be short-sighted: not only would these purists be missing out on a splendid wine, one has to question just how unique are the sauvignons from Alexanderfontein in Darling, Myrtle Grove in Somerset West and Lutouw on the West Coast near Koekenaap – the trio of involved. Does any sauvignon, yet, have a definitive thumbprint? What is not in doubt is the infusion of intense, cool climate character; shades of passion fruit and ripe lemons knit in an inviting fragrance, deemed more interesting than the taste by TJ. The cooler locations also provide a well-balanced, natural acid, mineral freshness and savoury length which contrasts the flavoursome concentration of ripe fruit. What is also certain is that, as enjoyable as it is now, this is a style able to benefit from between three and five years’ ageing, a feature which, along with this label's consistency, justifies the highish price. – AL
Ingwe Moueix is a magical surname in Bordeaux, and Alain Moueix is working on its reputation in the Helderberg…. He believes in terroir, and in 1997 bought this farm within spitting distance of False Bay, confident that it would yield fine reds (there’s also a bordeaux-style white). These are only the second releases of his two red blends. The Ingwe has just a bit more merlot than cab in it, the latter providing big, fine tannic support for the good sweet fruit: this is not a wine for immediate gratification and really deserves sympathetic keeping for at least a few years – when it might well reveal our rating as ungenerous. The components are well balanced (a moderate 13.5% alcohol and equally moderate oaking – just 40% new barrels involved), and they will grow into a more harmonious whole. The classic-spirited side of Cape winemaking needs all the strength it can get, and it’s getting some here. Though made in the same spirit, the Amehlo is more easy-going, though still firmly structured; but more happily drinkable in its youth – a warmly rich, fleshy blend of cab (46%) with merlot, malbec, shiraz and petit verdot. Lipsmacking, and a very good buy – drink it while thinking anticipatorily about the Ingwe serenely developing in the coolest, darkest place you can find for it. – TJ
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Scoring Grape’s interpretation of the 20-point rating scale 0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant 10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound 12-13.5: Pleasant enough, decent but basically simple quaffer 14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement 16-16.5 Very good wine, offering something special 17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA 18-20 Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest !!! indicates especially good value
Prices Tasters
TJ – Tim James RP – Guest taster Roland Peens of the Wine Cellar in Observatory, Cape Town For more information regarding the tasting procedures, tasters, etc, see the Recent releases contents page |
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