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Some early spring drinking – Part 2
Wines from Jordan, Marklew,
Middelvlei, Simonsig, Simonsvlei, Spier, Swartland, The Winery, Towerkop and Zonnebloem
Jordan Chameleon, Kathy and Gary Jordan’s food-friendly, wallet-pleasing offering named for the Cape Dwarf Chameleons found on this Stellenbosch property, begins the South African summer season with a new label. But the wine inside is reassuringly familiar. The 2006 White, available in screw cap or cork, is bright and breezy with plenty of lemon blossom and elderflower aromas and zesty acidity. It’s a nearly equal blend of sauvignon blanc and chardonnay with 13% chenin blanc providing extra zing, lees contact a hint of creaminess and 14 months in small French oak barrels for extra vanilla and spice complexity. TJ and RP are less enthusiastic citing a short, lacklustre finish. The Chameleon Red has for some years been a Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. The current bottling rings the changes with shiraz (17%) replacing the franc, 52% cab sauv and 31% merlot accounting for the lion’s share. It’s intensively savory with salami, black pepper and cardamom notes to its black fruit and strident tannins gripping its fleshy palate. I'm its champion, the others finding it a little too ripe and ordinary. By contrast, no-one wanted to argue for the 2004 Syrah but only because its modern opulence is stylistically too far removed from our personal preferences. Its 14% alcohol lends a slight spirituous scent to the nose and a hefty whack of oak vanilla and tannin come from some 16 months in French and American oak. This wine has a great deal of substance, abundant black and red fruits, refreshing acidity, potential complexity and a long finish, though it is a pity the American oak impinges too much on the fruit at the moment; perhaps a few years in bottle (no more than four) will allow the fruit to temper it somewhat. The Jordan flagship, Cobblers Hill, is also traditionally a Bordeaux blend; the 2003 being 55% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 15% cabernet franc. Well-known for their penchant for different rootstocks and clones, Kathy and Gary have these vines in Hutton & Glenrosa soil on R110 rootstock (merlot clones 192 and 36) and 101-14 rootstock (cabernet sauvignon clones 27 and 14). This combination provides very small berries to concentrate the various flavour and tannin compounds in the grape as is evident in the rich and intense fruit profile of the wine. The oak regime – 23 months in French barrels – shows in the luxurious mocha, chocolate and spice highlights. Possible terroir hints include buchu and a slight saltiness. It would be foolish to drink this wine now; it is crafted for cellaring and should improve over the next 7 years or so. Like the syrah, it is modern and well balanced (yes, even its 14.5% alcohol). But unlike other examples of its type, this one is not brash. – CvZ
Marklew Dudley and Lyn Marklew purchased this prime Simonsberg farm (Warwick and Laibach are neighbours) in 1970 and, with foresight, re-planted with classic white and red varieties. Until 2003, the entire crop was sold, KWV's Cathedral Cellar range being one beneficiary. Their children, Bill and Haidee (aided by Duan Brits) are now channelling off a small portion to bottle under the family name. The range is headed by a ‘Cape blend’, and the two varietal supporting cast members are modern, middle-of-the-road stuff, but not exactly great value. The youthfully plush Merlot is quite elegantly fruity, but with some odd notes to its aromas: a bit of animal, some dried herbs. A satisfying grip, no great concentration, and ready for drinking now. Oaking is supportive rather than dominating, for both these wines: around a third new barrels, with a mix of French and American oak. Needing a few more years to reach its best, the Cabernet is richer, sweeter, juicier, with a firmly compact tannic structure – but some will find it rather brash: perhaps, it was suggested at this tasting, those few years will throw a welcome veil of maturity over this aspect. — TJ
Middelvlei
We were all surprised that a barrel-matured chardonnay from this year's harvest should be available so soon. Indeed, some fermentation characters still remain, making the wine appear a little raw and tight. The oaking is well-handled not to dominate the straightforward nutty, bruised apple character, and a few hours later the wine did open up to reveal some creamy weight and a ripe core which suggests it may benefit from a few months' rest. But don't anticipate anything much more complex; this is basically an easy-drinking, uncomplicated style. The Pinotage-Merlot is good value, though a rather odd combination. Winemaker, Tinnie Momberg, is aiming at an easy drinking yet multi-dimensional red, and maintains the merlot not only adds complexity but also improves the wine’s immediate drinkability. The pinotage, from the estate's 40-year-old vines, is blended to add a uniqueness and richness; merlot has the fruit and savoury aspects. Ripe but well balanced (a big plus), it is round and seamless with lots of black fruit and meaty characters. The present slightly hollow mid-palate should fill out with a little ageing. Like the Chardonnay, this blend definitely improved with some oxygen, appearing more integrated and confident some five hours after we all tasted them together. – RP
Neethlingshof
This historic Stellenbosch estate has a smart young team in the cellar, led by DeWet Viljoen. There’s a good track record here with its botrytised dessert wine from riesling, so it would be surprising if the 2005 were anything less than delicious, packed with such aroma and flavour delights as apricot, pineapple and honey. Yet we were a little disappointed: the flavours are a little dissipated, there's a touch of coarseness, and, although the wine is tangy and refreshing enough and finishes pleasingly clean, we missed the thrilling bite that riesling can give so superbly to a sweet wine (as Neethlingshof showed in some earlier vintages, especially in the latter 1990s). The alcohol level is low for SA, at 9.5%, closer to the German model but without the best German concentration and acidity; perhaps this balance is not the best answer here. But a decent example, at a reasonable price. — TJ
Simonsig Chenin blanc was the first wine to be released by Simonsig's founder, Frans Malan, in 1968; the subsequent 33 vintages have been of consistent quality. Johan Malan rates 2006 as one of the finest he has made in the dry conditions, calling it ‘a pinnacle of fruit-forward finesse’. It is a sunny wine with banana and sweet pineapple, also a touch of botrytis, lining every corner. The ripeness is balanced with a perky acid and touch of sweetness. It is fun and creamy though we found it a little confected on the finish. What do you drink with spicy food? If you have been reaching for the rieslings and gewurztraminers, try this chenin next time, it will make a different and compatible partner. The oaked chenin (signalled by the French ‘avec Chêne' ) certainly is well-oaked. It’s a definite new-world style among a handful of chenins that cry for super-status on the SA market. Does a chenin need so much oak to fit the shoes of our flagship Chardonnays? The wine is bold and forward with vanilla and nutty notes. The mouthfeel is rich and creamy from lees contact and malolactic fermentation; marzipan and pineapple flavours add complexity. It is clean and lifted with good balance showing all its colours in its youth, only disappointing on the warm finish. A warning though: after five hours the wine showed tremendous oxidation, almost to a point of reversing its earlier positive showing. Best to drink up while its showy flag is flying. – RP
Simonsvlei Well, we know we’re going to take some flak for this score, particularly as this wine walked off with the honours at the 2006 Paarl Shiraz Challenge beating 37 other contenders and as it is a ‘limited edition’. Fruit comes from a single vineyard on the farm Bona Vista near Klapmuts; winemaker, Rolanie Lotz says it bears, ‘grapes of exceptional quality … so we decided to produce a limited edition for our Hercules Paragon range’. She describes the wine as `multi-layered with black pepper, spice and berry flavours.' No doubt the Challenge judges (Jacques Borman, Mike Louw, Caroline Rillema, Tinnie Momberg, Nico Vermeulen and Carl Schultz,convened by Christine Rudman CWM) also found these characters ... but we didn’t. Our experience was of an overripe wine with a spirituous palate (15% alcohol) left in the lurch by green stick tannins, sweet raisin fruit and a hollow middle. We variously found an unhealthy dose of volatile acidity (RP), cabbage (CvZ) and cauliflower (TJ) aromas as well as a ‘custardy oak’ (AL) character. We do not like to be so damning in our criticism, and we do not believe it was a single bottle problem so there's no point in avoiding the issue. Try before you buy, we'd suggest. – CvZ Website
Spier
Private Collection The 2004 version of the Chenin performed immensely well locally and abroad, despite being much more refined and less showy than many of the wines it beat. This latest vintage has already been given five stars in Platter and is in much the same style – although in fact it fits the show-winning mould rather better, with a higher alcohol and more sugar than the 2004. Technically off-dry, it is so well balanced that this is far from obvious, and it has a lively elegance while also being rich, with even a touch of honeyed raisin to it. The oak is pretty obvious at this stage – it adds a spiciness that many will enjoy, as well as augmenting the creamy texture. Very pleasing wine that should only improve over the next few years. The 2004 reds are only slightly less satisfying. Perhaps their more obvious, ‘showy’ appeal is connected to the role they must play in the big tourism enterprise that Spier conducts with such panache at the centre of its 300-year-old home wine farm (or the requirements of the big business Winecorp parent company). The Shiraz is very ripe and powerful – the alcohol, just under 15% alc, reveals itself in some hotness on the finish; so it’s not a graceful food companion, but quite impressive, with appealing smoky bacon and red fruit notes and firm, succulent tannins. The fashionable addition of some viognier is well done and not obvious. There’s toasty oak aplenty (some American) and AL was disappointed by this, and the accompanying sweetness. The Cabernet is more emphatically dominated by charry oak, but is sweetly juicy, spicy, and well-packed with ripe black fruit – likely to give plenty of pleasure under the Spier oaks to holidaymakers wanting some gutsy red wine. – TJ
Swartland Winery One of the benefits of crushing around 21 000 tons of grapes covering the spectrum of quality varieties, is that it affords plenty of opportunity for the creation of many wine styles at all price levels. This cellar, established 61 years ago, loses none of those chances to meet market demands as well as enhance the growing reputation of its eponymous area of origin. We have been asked to review several Light wines of late, few of which have met with any degree of enthusiasm. This, part of the Lifestyle range, fares little better. One problem common to all naturally low alcohol wines is that the grapes have to be picked less than fully ripe and, therefore, with less flavour. Starting with a fruity, fragrant variety such as the fernão pires used here, helps and there are promising, if slight spicy, muscat scents. They do not translate on to the palate, which, although showing good balance between sugar and acid, is unfortunately insipid. One has to wonder too if the benefit of the low 8% alcohol isn't cancelled by the 7.5 grams per litre of residual sugar. The Reserve range focuses on quality with value. The Swartland area is gaining recognition for white blends, many incorporating chenin, sauvignon and chardonnay, among other varieties. Thanks to the warm, dry summers, the styles tend to be full and rich, so we were surprised to find this white blend rather insubstantial. Shades of chenin’s flowers and honey with youthful guava made a promising start, unfortunately not carried through. There is breadth, possibly from partial oak fermentation, but little concentration and spark of freshness. Simplicity and some residual coarseness suggest early drinking. The red duo are unpretentious and more successful, although at our tasting the Shiraz-Cabernet struck all bar TJ as being rather oaky-sweet and unfocused. It unexpectedly came into its own the same evening partnered by a Thai curry chicken; the sweetness from both oak and fruit successfully counteracting the hot curry, while giving the firm but not harsh tannins a show. A welcome discovery for reds only winelovers. The Cabernet-Merlot needed nothing extra to show its paces. It's a harmonious partnership, firm, fresh and judiciously oaked, which highlights the straightforward bright cassis and plum fruit. Medium body and savoury finish are other attractions; all pleased TJ and myself, though RP and CvZ are concerned about a suggestion of greenness. Not a long-termer, and again comes more into its own with unfussy red meat dishes. – AL
The
Winery Known for its innovative approach, this Stellenbosch-based operation has come up with a novel idea of producing three shirazes in each of the countries where the winemaking partners are based: Alex Dale in South Africa, Ben Radford in the Eden Valley, South Australia and Edouard Labeye in Minervois, Languedoc, France. Although the intention is to reflect the individuality of each area, their common interest in shiraz was what initially forged the trio's alliance. Viognier plays a role only in the French and South African wines and although the partnership is generally associated with Côte Rôtie in the Northern Rhône, a taste of the Languedoc wine suggests it can work there as well. In South Africa, this recent trendy mix has had diverse results with even a tiny percentage of the white grape becoming an overpowering presence both with flavour and alcohol. It's not difficult to imagine that if as little as 5% viognier can be worryingly discernible, 20% – the amount in this wine – makes an unmistakeable contribution. Blindfolded, one could easily mistake the apricot, peachy fragrance for that of a white wine. Spice and tannins correct the impression, and initially, the light texture and some welcome freshness allows some agreeable shiraz fruit to come to the fore. This is sufficiently concentrated to balance the high alcohol, although both alcohol and viognier leave a sweetish finish that doesn't appeal to us. By no means a poor wine, there will be many who enjoy it but we find it too much over-the-top. – AL
Towerkop Viognier with everything is the rally cry these days, it's fashionability leading to too many over-blown and sometimes over-oaked, wines. So how delighted we were to find our expectations exceeded from the points of view of both variety and source here. Its origin, Ladismith Co-op, (united with Barrydale Co-op in Southern Cape Vineyards) might come as a surprise, but as winemaker, Riaan Marais, says, ‘we currently have 15 hectares under viognier and find the grape performs well in our dry, warm climate. If highly regarded producers such as Graham Beck and Hamilton Russell Vineyards buy the grapes from us, we know they must be good.' These producers' confidence spurred Marais to bottle his own viognier from a four-year old vineyard lying on the slopes of the landmark Towerkop (pictured on the label). Agreeably delicate, its fresh apricot and honeysuckle characters are nicely restrained yet pure and distinct. Structurally, the wine feels as though it has some gentle tannin – with the apricot flavours, the sensation is rather like sucking on the kernel – and richness balanced by a positive freshness from well-integrated acid. A 10% splash of wooded chardonnay adds an extra bit of shoulder but in no way detracts from the varietal message. Unpretentious, declares TJ; and good drinking now we all agree. – AL
Zonnebloem
One of the Cape’s grand old names and now and then seeming a little tarnished by age – or the anonymity of being just yet another Distell brand. Yet Zonnebloem can sometimes turn up something rather more than decent, safe stuff: the flagship Lauréat 2004 being a case in point. Although it’s far from showy, it has done very well on international competitions – a tribute to the subtle power of its restrained cab-based elegance (with 30% merlot, and dollops of shiraz, malbec and petit verdot, all the grapes sourced in various dryland Stellenbosch vineyards). There’s good ripe fruit, of course, supported by well-calculated oaking and some firm tannins, and a well-balanced alcohol of just under 14%. It finishes a little sweetish (though not from sugar) – but then, so do most Cape reds. The Lauréat is very drinkable now, but the fact that it was perhaps even better after being open for a day supports the analysis that it has a good and interesting future over the next five to ten years. Excellent value at less than twice the price of the nice but rather ordinary Sauvignon Blanc: pleasant, straightforward, with the usual satisfying mix of green and tropical flavours, with some dusty fynbos notes for interest’s sake. It must be said that AL found it lacking some of the concentration she noted whilst tasting the wine for the Platter Guide (maybe a factor of recent bottling?) and thought the rest of us a trifle generous with the rating. — TJ
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Scoring Grape’s interpretation of the 20-point rating scale 0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant 10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound 12-13.5: Pleasant enough, decent but basically simple quaffer 14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement 16-16.5 Very good wine, offering something special 17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA 18-20 Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest !!! indicates especially good value
Prices Tasters
TJ – Tim James RP – Guest taster Roland Peens of the Wine Cellar in Observatory, Cape Town For more information regarding the tasting procedures, tasters, etc, see the Recent releases contents page |
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