In inverted commas: a few local sherries and ports
12 October 2006

Monis 
• Pale Dry Sherry R42 15 !!!
• Medium Cream Sherry R42 15.5 !!!
• Full Cream Sherry R42 14

Dr Charles Niehaus is the name best remembered in regard to South African sherry-style wines. In the 1930s, his research proved that the flor yeast wasn't exclusive to Jerez but could also be found in local vineyards. This discovery benefited the local wines, though never to the extent that there would be confusion with their Spanish counterparts. This doesn't mean local sherry styles don't make acceptable drinking as a fortified wine, as this trio testify; they are also matured in the traditional solera system with its method of fractional blending to ensure continuity of style and quality with each bottling. The back label of these wines claim a maturation period of five years; in effect an average period, given some wine will be younger and some older. While each wine's colour provides a clue to its style – the Pale Dry is pale straw with a green halo; Medium Cream, ripe straw and Full Cream, walnut brown – we were intrigued to find all three wines have aromatic similarity. A light nut character with a hint of the clean, yeasty notes associated with flor, this most pronounced on the Pale Dry but, nuttiness apart, diminishing on the two sweeter wines. It is as though this trio share the same base wine, sweetened to different levels; even the Pale Dry has a touch of sweetness, though this helps to counteract the older oaky notes. It does also lend a heavier feel than would be the norm with a Spanish Fino. But do experiment with it as a food partner rather than only as an aperitif – it can work really well (as the Spanish know). The Medium Cream is the most successful, sweetened to a level that shows balance and character. In the Full Cream that sweetness becomes a detraction from the intended sherry style, leaving it more like a jerepigo.

This trio has been re-packaged to play down the word ‘Sherry', a name that has to be phased out locally by 2012. Screwcaps are part of the new look; it will be interesting to see if these are viewed in a different light from white or red table wines with this closure.
– AL

Distell website

Some ‘ports’ in a storm
• Axe Hill Cape Vintage 2004 R120 (500ml) 16
• Vergenoegd Old Cape Colony Port 2001 R75 17 !!!
• Sandemans Founders Reserve Port R147 not scored

‘One should never be without a bottle of port – even when one is visiting a coastline renowned for its sweltering days and balmy nights’ was the first thought that entered my mind the Sunday morning I pulled open the curtains and looked out into a wild, wet and windy day. But, my cupboard was bare and I had to content myself with thinking and writing about the fortified beverage as opposed to sipping it.

The Axe Hill Cape Vintage is the only wine brand to have been awarded six 5-star ratings by the John Platter SA Wine Guide. But we found the 2004, the second-to-last vintage crafted by the late Tony Mossop, not quite up to the standard of some earlier bottlings. From touriga naçional and tinta barocca (70/30), it billows and brims with all the traditional ‘port’ aromas and flavours – marzipan, fudge, vanilla, red plums and tea leaf – but seems sweeter and lighter than its predecessors despite its 20% alc spirituous grip and relatively low 91 g/l residual sugar. That said, it is very well-made and enjoyable with the structure to gain complexity over time; it could be cellared with confidence for around five years. We’d drink it, however, before other vintages from the ‘naughties’ with the exception of the 2001.

We found more to like at the end of the alphabet. Vergenoegd’s Old Cape Colony Port 2001 is a blend of two-thirds tinta barocca and touriga naçional grapes; this is a slight departure from previous vintages where tinta barocca alone was used. Owner-winemaker John Faure has never been one to rush his ports – nor his red wines – to market, preferring to release them with a degree of bottle age character. In the glass, the 2001 is darker, denser than the younger Axe Hill, suggesting it may be a far bolder, weightier wine. Its nose is gloriously floral and savoury with wafts of lavender, marjoram, tea leaf and tobacco; ditto the palate plus roasted nuts and caramel. This is an intense, well-knit drink with sufficient fruit and residual sugar (85 g/l) to harmonise with its 20% alc. More than ready for imbibing over the last few weeks of South Africa’s winter, it will nevertheless continue to improve in bottle until 2015 at least.

We were looking forward to comparing the two local offerings with the authentic article – Sandeman Founders Reserve Port. The brand has only recently returned to the country; it was acquired by Pernod Ricard, the second largest wine and spirits company in the world, as a result of the break-up of the Seagrams group. The Founders Reserve is named for George Sandeman, the Scotsman who started the company in 1790 in London. Selected from the ‘finest lots’ of each vintage, it spends five years in barrel prior to release. Unfortunately, the bottle we had was spoilt so we can’t confirm the house’s reputation for you, you’ll have to find a bottle and try yourself. — CvZ

• Vergenoegd website

Scoring

Grape’s interpretation of the 20-point rating scale

0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant

10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound

12-13.5: Pleasant enough, decent but basically simple quaffer

14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement

16-16.5 Very good wine, offering something special

17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA

18-20  Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest

!!! indicates especially good value

Prices
Prices given are approximate retail in South Africa, except where indicated as ex-farm by (f)

Tasters

TJ – Tim James
AL – Angela Lloyd
CvZ – Cathy van Zyl

RP – Guest taster Roland Peens of the Wine Cellar in Observatory, Cape Town