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November 2006 (1): Wines from Avondale, Nash Family Vineyards, Paul Cluver and Solms-Delta 6 November 2006
Avondale This Paarl property will shortly be celebrating its first decade under the ownership of the Grieve family. As with their health products business, the Grieves are following a holistic approach to wine farming; organic viticulture is practised in all new vineyards and indigenous flora, home to predators of vine-loving bugs, is being reintroduced among the vines to further this natural approach. Lying on the warm lower slopes of the Klein Drakenstein mountains, between Paarl and Franschhoek, one might expect alcohol levels to be higher than they are in the white wines at least, but the Chenin weighs in at 13.5%, the Chardonnay at 13%. Still to blow off some youthful, estery notes, the Chenin goes on to reveal quiet varietal honey, floral fragrance, both characters echoed, with the help of a little sugar, in the juicy, fresh and uncomplicated flavours. I found it more satisfying than my fellow-tasters, who rated it good entry level, commercial style. (Older vintages of this wine have matured well over a few years, so perhaps we have underestimated it.) Unwooded chardonnay is a much-improved category, with the best showing good character and style. Regrettably, this is not yet among them; its simplicity derives mainly from a lack of ‘sur lie' richness and weight (despite being kept on the lees for four months), the varietal pithy grapefruit, lemon-fresh flavours are rather one-dimensional and a little gravelly in texture. Best unscrewed with fish or creamy pasta dishes over this coming summer. The red, Graham blend (named for the Grieves' Scottish lineage), is assembled according to the dictates of the vintage rather than a recipe. In 2003 the cellar's best resulted in a 50% cabernet sauvignon, 25% each merlot and shiraz blend. Here the effects of warmer growing conditions are clearly evident in the spicy, beefy ripeness, characters IM thought benefited from a suggestion of volatile acidity. Both tannin extraction and oak have been well judged and, the slight 15% alcohol glow apart, the structural balance allows the savoury richness full play. The blood-red rim in so young a wine gives some concern as far as longer-term potential is concerned but partnered by a suitable hearty dish, it should satisfy over the next couple of winters, perhaps longer. – AL
Nash Family Vineyards
Rhinoceros Hill Shiraz is the new, second label wine from Nash Family Vineyards, better known as Black Pearl Wines. One of the first members of the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative, owner Dr Lance Nash and his family are strong supporters of the scheme. In 2005 they established 184 hectares of land abutting their west-facing, Paarl Mountain vineyards as the Rhenosterkop Contract Nature Reserve in order to protect the endangered, indigenous renosterveld (‘rhinoceros land’). The wine not only takes its name from this indigenous vegetation, but part of the proceeds from sales will be channelled into improving and maintaining the Reserve … which should do well from the deal. Certainly in its dark, deep blackcurrant hue and generous red fruit and lilies aromas, typical of a young shiraz, the wine reflects its warm origin. But whereas in previous vintages we felt the wines tipped into over-ripeness, this shows good freshness (though IM interprets this as noticeably added acid) and the more interesting fruit flavours that derive from earlier harvesting. CvZ particularly noted the crunchy red fruit richness and, in the style of second labels, it is fairly fruit-driven but not without structure and an element of oak that rounds without dominating. In conclusion, a satisfying, unpretentious wine that offers good value in a category where high prices are the norm. – AL • Website
Paul Cluver
If ever there was a duo that demonstrates the Cape's stylistic versatility it's this pair, grown on the Cluver's highland Elgin property. Riesling's problems are well chronicled: confusion over nomenclature and the range of sweetness without indication. Gewürztraminer is less discussed but no doubt pronunciation and the difficulty of matching the often blowsy, sweeter wines with food must play a role in a lack of popularity. Riesling, thanks to producers such as the Cluvers, seems to be on a come-back locally (as it is interntionally) and this is a thoroughly enticing example, though it drew a spread of scores around the eventual decision, with CvZ most appreciative. Its bright lemon colour is brilliantly shot with green; fresh and exuberant lime and spices alert the aroma sensors before being sprinted across the palate by taut, racy acid, always an inherent element of quality riesling. The whole provides an impression of intensity with lightness thanks to impeccable balance (7.6 g/l acid, 9 g/l residual sugar and 11.5% alcohol are worthy of note). The wine is, of course, still ridiculously young (though thoroughly enjoyable) and will benefit from a good 4 to 5 years' ageing. According to winemaker Andries Burger, the elegant, long (and screwcapped) bottle has caused consternation among some restaurateurs due to its length not matching their fridge dimensions! This should not be a deterrent to riesling lovers; future vintages, in any case, will feature a slightly shorter though otherwise similar bottle. The Gewürztraminer is similarly packaged and equally impressive (for TJ slightly more so, for IM slightly less so) in its elegance and freshness. The purity of varietal litchi, rosepetal and spice expression is achieved with restraint and subtlety while its textural quality is both rich and mineral. It’s a combination that will do well both as a partner to, particularly, Asian dishes and as a summer sundowner. Only slightly higher in alcohol than the riesling, 12.5%, the acid/sugar ratio, 7.6 g/l/10 g/l creates equal nervy tension. There's no question it will mature well, the only caveat being that once tasted, it will be difficult not to open a second bottle. Both wines offer exceptional value, a further reason to advance their cause. – AL • Website
Solms-Delta Hiervandaan 2005 is the second vintage of this characterful Rhône-style blend from one of the Cape’s most dynamic and exciting new wineries – on an old and now re-emerging Franschoek farm. Most of the grapes for the wine (shiraz, grenache, grenache, carignan and viognier, seamlessly blended) are as yet brought in from elsewhere. It is immensely drinkable and unpretentious – even a little rustic, in the best possible sense, though seriously vinous and with ageing potential. The ripe tannins give grip and there’s plenty of fruit depth and a freshness from balanced acidity, leading to a lengthy savoury finish. The wood (mostly new French oak) is harmoniously integrated – something that winemaker Hilko Hegewisch seems particularly adept at doing. The Solms-Hegewisch label (the winemaker takes an additional share in this particular venture) is used for wines fully made from grapes which have been partially dried on the vine – the stems of the bunches are crushed, effectively cutting the grapes from the plant. Three or more weeks later they have partially dried – much the same process as with ‘straw wines’ where cut bunches dry on racks or beds of straw before crushing. The technique is usually employed for dessert wines, and there are few attempts to make drier wines in this way in the Cape – or elsewhere: internationally the best known examples are the highly regarded Amarones from northern Italy. It is a technique that Solms-Delta uses for components of other wines (including Hiervandaan), but the Koloni and Africana are the first made entirely from desiccated grapes. Koloni is the white version, from riesling (59%) and muscat de Frontignan and muscat d’Alexandrie (hanepoot) – the muscat character as obvious on the wine as it usually is! It is a rich, powerful wine with intense flavours but not without the forceful elegance that is characteristic of the Solms range, so that it should work pretty well with a range of foods. It’s just off-dry, and with a big alcohol that CvZ found a touch hot and hard on the finish. We all found the red dried-grape wine Africana more interesting and rewarding. It is made from shiraz (ex-Kuils River), but varietal character is not the point here. There is a hint of raisin on the beguiling nose, and an expanding complexity includes notes of tealeaf and sour plum. The generous proportions (big alcohol and a hint of sweetness that are both very acceptable in this context) mingle satisfyingly with a firm, even almost austere, structure of fine tannins and a lifting acidity. It would be a reasonable partner to hearty dishes, but deserves to be thought of, like its Amarone cousins, as a vino di meditazione, a splendid after-dinner accompaniment to thoughtful contemplation of the glowing fire (or of the night sky, or a good book), with some nuts, parmesan cheese and dried fruit within arm’s reach. It’s not exactly cheap, but this is an expensive way of making wine and in light of the quality, it is good value, and a purchase one is not likely to regret – especially if you leave the wine to mature for the five-plus beneficial years of maturation it deserves. Yet again Solms-Delta shows why its arrival on the Cape wine scene should be warmly welcomed by those looking for something reaching well beyond the commonplace. – TJ • Website
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Scoring Grape’s interpretation of the 20-point rating scale 0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant 10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound 12-13.5: Pleasant enough, decent but basically simple quaffer 14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement 16-16.5 Very good wine, offering something special 17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA 18-20 Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest !!! indicates especially good value
Prices Tasters
TJ – Tim James IM – Guest taster Ingrid Motteux, wine consultant; taster for the Platter Guide For more information regarding the tasting procedures, tasters, etc, see the Recent releases contents page |
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