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End-of-year drinking (1) 15 December 2006 Elgin Vintners, Flagstone, Fleur du Cap, Kloovenberg, Nederburg, Vrede en Lust
Elgin Vintners It’s a great idea, this six-strong partnership of grape growers in the Elgin Valley. Their vineyards spread over a radius of 12 kilometres, encompassing all the terroir components of the region, says Paul Wallace, who is the viticultural consultant common to all of them: various soils, aspects, altitudes and meso-climates. Elgin sauvignon is building a fine reputation, and the second bottling (from three of the Elgin farms and vinified by Jeff Grier at Villiera) is typical of the region in its lively freshness and a minerality reminiscent of wet stones. There’s also good varietal passionfruit and gooseberry, along with greenpepper, all in understated rather than gushing mode. We thought a little more concentration might complement its elegance, and AL thought the acidity rather outweighed the fruit.
Given all the emphasis by publicists to the cool climate
character of Elgin, it is a bit puzzling that so many producers seem
determined to produce red wines other than pinot noir which probably
does well there. The Agama (72% cabernet, with merlot, the maiden
release of the designated Elgin Vintners’ flagship red) is certainly not
green – we felt, in fact, that it’s flavours were more those of extreme
ripeness (not to everyone’s taste), with a plummy sweet richness to its
powerful but rather loose structure, a moderately high alcohol at just
under 14% and good tannins, partly from well-used new French oak. But as
so often with ultra-ripe fruit, there seems some insipidity at its core,
and a diminution of freshness.
Flagstone The Flagstone range is like a concertina, forever expanding and contracting, with Bruce Jack and his immense passion for winemaking playing the tune. New vineyard parcels and varieties are regularly added to the portfolio and even as a member of the wine industry, I admit to getting slightly confused. Quality is always consistent though and it is intriguing to discover his new cuvées. The Free Run Sauvignon Blanc is part of the Foundation range, and, as the name suggests, the wine comprises free run juice with no pressings added. This method excludes any harshness found in the pips/stems/skin of white grapes. The wine's lemon, lime accent with a hint of blackcurrant leaf appeals, though we would wish for more concentration on the mid-palate. The lower acidity contrasts to the cooler climate Sauvignon Blanc below. The Berrio, from Elim near Cape Agulhas, is a premium brand for longer ageing and serious drinking. Typical asparagus and green pepper aromatic intensity is complemented by a lively, mineral, tight structure with a weighty mid-palate, extending to a long textured finish. Expect this wine to develop well over the next few years. Pinot Blanc is the white version of Pinot Noir and a mutation of Pinot Gris. It’s a native of Burgundy though has more plantings in Alsace and central Europe. This integrated 2005 presents spice and nuts with a creamy vanilla core, much due to its time in oak. Light in body and with great drinkability, its phenolic nature also makes it able to marry very well with food. The message sent to us via the ‘Semaphore Pinotage Rosé’ is one of utter quaffing and refreshment. Its bright cherry colour appears almost synthetic, reminding CvZ of Coolaid. It has very forward fresh fruit with a banana core and treacle finish. These appeal to all except TJ who doesn't like the stewed fruit character.
The Dragon Tree
displays vivacious notes of amorello cherries and very ripe
blackcurrants. Big and clean on the palate, it has a sweet streak
running through to a rich finish. The blend of pinotage and cabernet
with a few other varieties including chardonnay changes from vintage to
vintage. TJ finds the palate too intense and artificial in this
commercially styled wine but it is good for immediate enjoyment while
the grip and freshness are at their maximum. – RP
Fleur
du Cap
Its rumoured that the Distell hierarchy prefers their
brandy, but for many winelovers Fleur du Cap is the jewel in the crown –
particularly the white wines, for which Kobus Gerber is more than
satisfactorily in charge of maintaining interest and standards. The
standard range (ie, not the Unfiltered) also generally offers good value
for money, and this deft chenin (assembled from divers Stellenbosch
vineyards) certainly does that. It has everything one wants from a
lightly wooded style: pleasant varietal aromas and flavours,
complemented rather than subordinated by oak, weight, crisp freshness,
sweet fruit, and not too much of anything – except perhaps the alcohol,
which is pushing 15% and makes for a rather too glowing finish. But on
the whole a very drinkable, unpretentious winner. – TJ
Kloovenberg Fret not
that this wine's appearance isn't remotely white, rather delight in its
twinkling cherry blush - surely one of the prettiest rosé hues on the
market. - and achieved from letting the grapes crush each other rather
than apply any extraneous force. Its attractions don't stop there.
Shiraz is the declared grape on the label and its fresh, spicy fragrance
and flavours reveal this with pleasing clarity and delicacy, imparting
character lacking in too many rosés. Its moderate body - 13.5% alcohol
is moderate for Kloovenberg's Riebeek Kasteel vineyards -
refreshing acidity and dry, fruity persistence make it a perfect,
uncomplicated sipper, as a sundowner or lazy, long picnic during the
coming summer. – AL
Nederburg
The huge Nederburg machine churns out increasingly respectable stuff these days, and this, from their standard range, and drawn from many regions, is a decent enough example of popular style Cape sauvignon: a crisp mix of very green and tropical aromas and flavours. The substantial sappy acidity is offset by a little bit of plumping sugar, making a neat package with the 13.5% alcohol. Frankly, it’s difficult to say more than that it is what you might expect, not more, not less, though the price does seem a little high for this ordinariness.
Vrede en Lust
The
newness of these wines lies more in their packaging than in their actual
release. The above trio, which we tasted, plus Cara, Classic and Reserve
have recently been launched in 375ml size with screwcaps and sold in a
(mix-'n-match) four-pack priced at half that of a similar pack of 750ml
bottles. Owner, Dana Buys believes this strikes the right note for the
21st century winelover; `The wine in half bottles and screw
caps give consumers the chance to experience a variety of our wines, in
different combinations - a thoroughly modern concept,' he claims. He
also hopes it is a means of developing a stronger wine culture in South
Africa. `Small bottles can help create value as consumers often want to
drink less or enjoy more variety, but don't want to compromise on
quality.' Neither does today's consumer-in-a-hurry want to wait for
young wines to mature and the above trio are more than ready. The
Karien, a chenin-semillon blend, has that mature, bottle-aged nose but
on taste one realises it's actually more semillon's typical waxiness
driving the style, this lifted by a gentle freshness. More about texture
than fruit, it's undemanding and drinkable. Barbère, a dry rosé,
including cinsaut, needs opening soon to capture the quiet strawberry
tones and a pleasant savouriness RP noted. A little flat for a style
best enjoyed in vibrant youth, it will still make an unpretentious
picnic wine. Our tip for Simond, a merlot-shiraz blend, is don't drink
too warm; around 15-16°C is best for this densely textured red with its
slightly bitter edge.
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Scoring Grape’s interpretation of the 20-point rating scale 0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant 10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound 12-13.5: Pleasant enough, decent but basically simple quaffer 14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement 16-16.5 Very good wine, offering something special 17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA 18-20 Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest !!! indicates especially good value
Prices Tasters
TJ – Tim James IRP – Guest taster Roland Peens; MW student and retailer (WIne Cellar, Observatory, Cape Town) For more information regarding the tasting procedures, tasters, etc, see the Recent releases contents page |
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