RECENT RELEASES
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Recent releases for early winter
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Wines from Eikendal, Flagstone, Riebeek Cellars and The Stables (the first Sauvignon Blanc from KwaZulu- Natal
Eikendal
The fashion and enthusiasm for rosé wines, whether still
or sparkling, but more often than not dry, show no sign of waning. This
Helderberg property has now joined the throng with a carbonated fizz.
While the bubble in many sparkling wines made in this most basic of
methods is often challenging and harsh, here it is bright yet softly
meshed with the fruit. Regrettably, that's where the pleasant features
start and end. The blend is a motley assemblage of merlot, shiraz,
cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc – according to the current Platter
guide, the reasoning behind this unusual (to say the least) mix has to
do with blocks that are unsuitable for red wine. One has to ask whether
they are the best choice for a non-vintage sparkling rosé. The developed
coppery/red hue lacks the eye-appeal which should initially ignite
pleasure. The fruit follows in similar dullish vein, concluding with a
disturbing bitter twist. A sad lapse from this cellar which consistently
offers good value across its broad range. – AL
Flagstone Two words we could never couple to describe the wines from Flagstone Winery are ‘shrinking’ and ‘violet’. That said, winemaker/rainmaker, Bruce Jack, might consider them a fun name for a wine given his penchant for the quirky (Love Handles, for example), the whimsical (Dragon Tree) and the provocative (Writer’s Block). In fact, we don’t know what we look forward to more; tasting his new wines or reading the stories he’s woven about them. The Heywood House is bound to provoke dinner table conversion given its price and its style. It’s distinctly sauvignon blanc – there are tinned pea, asparagus and cut-grass aromas and flavours – but it’s also barrel fermented, and in American oak, no less. Wooded sauvignon blanc is not much in vogue locally (despite a few fine examples), most consumers preferring the fresh, uncomplicated character of the grape unadulterated, as they see it, by oak. This example, from fruit from the cool Elim ward, is a sophisticated version, with the oak adding extra weight, texture and flavour to the wine. At times, it appeared more ‘wooded white’ than ‘wooded sauvignon’ in the glass but those moments were fleeting. At 14.5% alcohol, it’s probably more suited to sharing over a meal than sipping solo. Also, we’re a little concerned the oak will dominate the sauvignon flavours as the wines ages, so suggest it is drunk relatively young. We seldom receive wines from Burgundy’s great red grape for our new releases tastings, so were pleased to find two in the line up this month (the review of Groote Post’s version will appear shortly). The Fiona, the small range named for Bruce’s sister, also includes a sauvignon blanc which we didn’t taste this time round; probably just as well given the debate ‘her’ pinot noir sparked. TJ thought it rather rustic and dominated by oak, although he enjoyed the role acidity played in the balance; AL thought there sufficient fruit to balance the wooding; and CvZ was perturbed by a slight feral note on the nose and grippy tannins on the palate – but thought they just needed time to integrate. IM was most positive: she found attractive fruit, appetising acidity and an overall brightness to the wine. Acknowledging the others’ observations, she said it was very reminiscent of the 2003 at the same stage of development, adding that she’d enjoyed a bottle of that wine just a few nights ahead of the tasting and it was ‘superb’. This is one wine for which we’d certainly value our readers’ feedback.
TJ fell in love with the Dark Horse label, but he passed
on the bottle so we could pass judgement on its contents. This is made
from Tulbagh and Swartland fruit, 80% of which has been aged in American
oak barrels. In the glass, the wine lived up to the label – it was a
beautiful, deep crimson; the nose featured intense oak spices and juicy
red berry fruit; the palate was harmonious, full of fruit and savoury,
well-handled tannins. We thought this has the potential to gain
complexity for upwards of 5 years in a good cellar, especially as it is
bottled under screwcap and not, as Bruce would say, the ‘vexed’ cork.
AL, while pointing out she found the American oak unnerving, said the
wine was exceptionally well made and showed a certain sense of delicacy,
which she found charming. – CvZ
Jordan
Last year, winemaking couple Kathy and Gary Jordan toured
France seeking ‘rosé’ inspiration; we hear that their first attempt is
already in the bottle waiting on its launch later in 2007. They also
visited Bordeaux, no doubt on their never-ending cabernet sauvignon and
claret learning curve. Many winelovers would suggest that they need
learn no more, and that both Cobblers Hill (their Bordeaux blend) and
the single variety bottling of Cabernet Sauvignon are already pretty
well good enough. The latest release of the latter is certainly
impressive; Gary has said that ‘King Cabernet’ lived up to its name in
this vintage, ‘showing exceptional concentration and depth of colour
from the first day in the cellar’. Matured for 20 months in small French
oak barrels, it is intended to age well for more than a decade. Modern
in style with bold fruit, succulent ripeness and firm backbone, it is
given added interest by just a hint of austerity from its well-managed
tannins. A new South Africa classic respecting nature and using
technology to fine-tune, not alter, her bounty, we concurred. Except TJ
to some extent, who thought it a little too ‘safe’, and wondered if
perhaps a little imperfection would add character.
– CvZ
Riebeek Cellars This co-operative winery in Swartland’s Riebeek Valley plan to release the first vintage of their empowerment venture Partnership Vineyards range this year, adding to an already extensive range of local and export labels - all with a solid reputation for value for money. The winery’s go-ahead approach will be exemplified (for some at least) by the decision to sell all their ranges under screwcap from now on – a tricky but bold decision, as cellarmaster Zakkie Bester says. The standard chenin is a great buy at under R20. Freshly bottled under screwcap, with some resultant reductive sweatiness, it has still to settle and shake off its pear-drop ferment character. Cost, attractive pineapple tropicality, moderate 12.5% alcohol, and balanced acidity make it a good everyday choice in the dry-white-wine category. The much smarter packaging of the pricier Reserve version implies a better wine, and although obviously more complex and expensively made (lower yields from Kasteelberg vines, plenty of lees contact, new French oak), it is let down by unbalanced, harsh acidity and a deadening of the rich melon flavours by overly generous oaking.
The just-pink pinotage rosé was appreciated by TJ and AL
for its sweet raspberry fruit, freshness, elegance and quaffability. CvZ
and I were less enthusiastic, finding it rather dull and dilute. But the
wine that drew most criticism was the Cabernet that followed – rejected
as raisined, confected and jammy by all except myself. I find the soft,
early-drinking, berry-flavoured commercial style spot on for the novice
wine drinker. The Swartland is well known – and becoming ever better
known, for its shiraz, and we all agreed that the fresh, juicy,
judiciously staved Shiraz is an excellent value quaffer (in fact
preferred by CvZ and TJ to its bemedalled Reserve counterpart). Deeper
and more polished, with fine concentration of juicy, but not overripe,
shiraz fruit, it is easy to see what pleases show judges about the
Reserve. The enthusiastic wooding (a two year spell in both French and
American barrels) is the biggest detraction for AL; on the other hand,
CvZ thought it well-handled. Both Reserve wines are WO Swartland, and
the rest under the umbrella Coastal Region. –
IM
The
Stables
If you didn’t know that KwaZulu-Natal is now an official
‘geographical unit’ within the Wine of Origin Scheme, you’ll be
surprised to hear that KZN has produced its first home-grown sauvignon.
This is it, and it’s a wine,which needs no special pleading to make it
recommendable. There is, incidentally, already a KZN-certified Rosé from
The Stables, with a Pinotage 2006 and Merlot 2006 on the way – as well
as the Nottingham Road range of Cape-origin wines. The Stables Wine
Estate was established by the splendidly enthusiastic Tiny and Judy van
Niekerk on an old horse stud farm just outside Nottingham Road, among
(as they claim) ‘the rolling hills and the farmlands of the beautiful
KwaZulu-Natal midland’. This maiden Sauvignon Blanc is a crisply
refreshing example of the grape, with an appley zing. The initial aromas
seem almost whiffy in a questionable way, but any oddness blows off and
resolves into just added character, adding interest to the wine. It’s
not aggressive – and is even nicely delicate, satisfactorily lingering.
A good, modest food wine, and fine for sipping solo too. It’s not so
easy any more to speak of ‘Cape wine’ to cover all the decent stuff made
in South Africa. – TJ
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Scoring Grape’s interpretation of the 20-point rating scale 0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant 10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound 12-13.5: Pleasant enough, decent but basically simple quaffer 14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement 16-16.5 Very good wine, offering something special 17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA 18-20 Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest !!! indicates especially good value
Prices Tasters for these wines
TJ – Tim James IM – Guest taster Ingrid Motteux, Cape-based wine consultant; taster for the Platter Guide For more information regarding the tasting procedures, tasters, etc, see the Recent releases contents page
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