RECENT RELEASES
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Midwinter
recent releases (1)
Wines from Cordoba, Flagstone and Klein Constantia
Cordoba Fans of this Helderberg cabernet
franc-based blend might have had a longer than usual wait for this
latest release but their patience is well rewarded, as Chris Keet’s hard
work in the vineyards and his classic touch in the cellar pays
dividends, There are, of course, benefits to the delay: firstly, with
four years under its belt, the wine has had time to settle into itself
which will be appreciated by those who have neither place nor extra
patience to wait for further maturity. As with any quality red from this
auspicious vintage, it will, of course, reap the rewards of time; ten
years is always a realistic rather than aspirational goal for Crescendo.
Secondly, the price tag for a four-year-old, quality red is far from
extortionate, given that many younger (and lesser) wines are released at
similar or higher prices. So to the wine itself. It is elegant and
unshowy, yet also persuasive, though for TJ it doesn't immediately
recall previous vintages (it shows more early, fruity charm than usual,
he thinks). Cabernet franc's lilting leafy spice is both an introduction
and memory (partners merlot and cabernet sauvignon account for 15%
each); in between the suave, creamy texture, fine, vibrant tannins and
complex flavours create a flowing harmony. There are no extraneous,
unnecessary adornments: a year and a half in new French oak does the
evolutionary, enriching job intended without intrusion, which emphasises
the wine's class. In the days of printed Grape, we gave the 2000 a very
rare five star rating; if this doesn't quite hit those heady heights, it
shouldn't disappoint anyone who appreciates and enjoys quality red wine.
– AL Flagstone
• Longitude 2006
R38 14 !!! Two wines from the land of fanciful names and often interesting wines under screwcap (it’s Bruce Jack’s empire – based in a roomy Somerset West cellar, and stretching out across the Cape winelands as far as his restless quest for quality grapes takes him). One of the two is great value, the other less so, perhaps. Longitude is half from cab, the remainder from a half-dozen assorted varieties, presumably the leftovers from here and there, or percentages stolen from grander cuvées. But if that suggests carelessness, not at all. It’s a most attractive, warm-hearted blend, sporting a little sweet spiciness and a touch of wild herbs along with the aromas and flavours of ripe (but not squishy) fruit. Much more easy-going than a big 14.5% alcohol would normally imply. Enjoy!
The Cabernet really
showed the benefit of our tasting method, which allows us to sample the
wine over a few days. Soon after opening it was rather too sombre,
despite the ripe sweet fruit on display, and seemed dourly acidic rather
than fresh; the massive 15% alcohol (giving a ‘hot’ finish) not helping
to make it pleasurable drinking. A bit heavy, we thought – though IM and
CvZ were more positive. And in fact their optimistic analysis was proved
right, as the wine showed much better a day later: more relaxed, open
and generally approachable, though still not exactly easy-drinking, and
one could enjoy more the mingled black berries and tobacco aromas and
flavours and the soft ripe tannic structure. The lesson being that the
wine is probably going to lose some toughness and acquire some more
charm over the next few years; if you must broach it meanwhile, decant
it as splashily as possible at least a few hours before drinking.
Incidentally, Bruce himself describes the tannins, aromas and flavours
as 'focused, fine and vivid like a victorious,
battle-weary General’s vision of his beautiful, young wife, and visa [sic]
versa', and who am I to disagree, except with the spelling? I'll rather
back off, bewildered.
– TJ
Klein Constantia
Estate The two non-estate wines in Klein Constantia’s stable, labelled under the KC brand name, and bottled under screwcap, are from brought-in grapes; they are nevertheless given the same attention and care that winemaker Adam Mason lavishes on the estate wines. The Sauvignon Blanc – a newcomer to the range – is from Elim and Elgin grapes, and their cool climate origin shows in the wine. Pale yellow, its aromas are reminiscent of a gravel path winding through a grassy lawn fringed with spring flowers after rain (as opposed to warmer climate tropical fruit basket). The palate is zingy with some blackcurrant flavours, long and balanced. We found it deft and assured, its concentration and structure certain to allow for improvement over a year or two. Interestingly, the cab-merlot blend claims provenance of ‘WO Stellenbosch and Constantia’; many properties would simply elect to state the origin as ‘Coastal’. Klein Constantia’s disclosure provides a clue as to fruit source – presumably Anwilka (the property owned by the partnership of Klein Constantia's Lowell Jooste with Bordelais maestros, Bruno Prats and Hubert de Boüard) just outside Somerset West, and the young Constantia vineyards which from 2005 provided fruit for the flagship Marlbrook blend. This second label is very seductive, with a distinctive claret nose (plum, herbs, tealeaf), and lengthy and balanced palate. While a sweet cassis character is characteristic of warmer Stellenbosch fruit, the wine does not lean towards an exuberant, fruity style, rather it is relatively restrained. Drink now or within 3 years. Turning to the estate wines, there is much to enjoy and applaud – but with a handful of reservations. CvZ and IM found the Mme Marlbrook very accomplished. From semillon, 39% sauvignon blanc and a hint of 3% muscat de Frontignan, all fermented and aged in 50% new French oak, it entices with a lively lemon hue, creamy vanilla and lemon blossom nose, and seamless palate. The oak is cleverly handled, barely obvious on the nose and only slightly more so on the palate where it adds texture, weight and a slight sweetness. Currently more waxy semillon in character than fresh sauvignon (and with less muscat showing than at the launch a few weeks ago, and much less than in the previous vintage), it promises to improve with bottle-age. TJ concurred with its class, but finds the 5g/l hint of sweetness a little too ingratiating; AL was at complete odds with the rest of us, commenting that the wine doesn't quite ‘hang together’, lacking vibrancy and richness. Everyone agreed on the quality of the Bordeaux-styled cabernet sauvignon-merlot blend, Marlbrook, however, now back in the line-up after a four year absence. Coupling lovely fruit density with grippy tannins, it is classically orientated and modest, savoury rather than austere. A really good foil for fine fare, we’d drink it now until 2012.
It is always a treat to finish a tasting with an offering
in the style, and class, of Vin de Constance. One of South Africa’s best
known wines both locally and abroad, it is usually made from
unbotrytised but ripe Muscat de Frontignan, and aged for up to four
years in used French oak barrels. Unlike the 2001 which had 14.8%
alcohol and 135g/l residual sugar, this 2002 had only 13.5% and 153g/l.
This new release is beautiful and exotic as always, if in a lighter
style than previous bottlings. And, slightly raisined, it seems to lack
the usual nervosity or ‘verve’. Even so, this is wine for ‘sticky’
aficionados and collectors, to be respected and enjoyed. Interestingly,
over the weekend, I found someone with whom to share ‘the dregs’ and who
didn’t know the wine at all. Brought up on jerepigos and muscadels, he
was enchanted by its delicacy and delighted by its history.
– CvZ
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Scoring Grape’s interpretation of the 20-point rating scale 0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant 10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound 12-13.5: Pleasant enough, decent but basically simple quaffer 14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement 16-16.5 Very good wine, offering something special 17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA 18-20 Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest !!! indicates especially good value
Prices Tasters for these wines
TJ – Tim James IM – Guest taster Ingrid Motteux, Cape-based wine consultant; taster for the Platter Guide For more information regarding the tasting procedures, tasters, etc, see the Recent releases contents page
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