RECENT RELEASES
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Midwinter
recent releases (2)
Wines from Allesverloren, Backsberg, Bilton, Blaauwklippen, De Toren, Fleur du Cap, Kango Winery, Monis
Allesverloren
This is the first Vintage reserve from the venerable Allesverloren estate on the foothills of the Kasteelberg in the Swartland, where generations of Malans have been making port-style wines (and much besides) for half a century. The selection of this particular wine for the honour rather puzzled us, as it lacks the tannic grip, power and depth of fruit that a serious port should show – even when it is approaching maturity (and this wine is certainly quite evolved, even just a touch oxidised). It’s made from a whole range of mostly traditional port varieties, though the alcohol at 18% is rather lower than tradition suggests, which helps account for the lack of oomph. That said, the aromas and flavours are pleasant, and the palate is vibrant – actually showing that it is structured more by acidity than by tannin. A nice after-dinner drink, but not one that matches up to the best examples of the new Douro-oriented generation of Cape ports.
Backsberg After years of seemingly languishing on the sidelines, this 3rd generation family-owned Paarl farm is making a punchy comeback with their sophisticated Black Label reserve range, which includes this and the 2007 Trophy Wine Show knock-out Babylonstoren Chardonnay. Named for the late Sydney Back’s right-hand man, the fruit for the screwcapped John Martin was sourced from both Backsberg’s Durbanville and Paarl vineyards, the former providing the fresh grassy varietal intensity, and the latter its body and texture. Winemaker Alicia Rechner barrel-fermented 15% in French oak, the flavour of which is imperceptible, but the effect of which adds obvious breadth, complexity and spiciness to a well-constructed whole. AL particularly enjoys its polished sleekness and fine core of lemon-flavoured intensity, though CvZ seeks more on the finish. Nevertheless, none of us feel it is overpriced. – IM
Bilton
Our previous reviews of this Helderberg property's red wines have included descriptors such as `ripe', `big', `exuberant' . Those who enjoy such a style may buy this cabernet confident that it follows in similar stylistic vein. As one might anticipate from a declared 14.5% alcohol, the colour is inky and dense. Ripeness is echoed in the aromas, most varietal character dominated by whiffs of volatile acidity and cedary new oak. Despite this initial impression, as compared with earlier vintages, we positively find slightly more freshness, less of an over-ripe feel in the mouth. That said, the wine is soft-centred, bolstered more by its alcohol than life-enhancing tannins, an indication that it will probably be best uncorked over the next two to three years. – AL
Blaauwklippen
Many winelovers will remember with fondness this Stellenbosch farm's heyday during the late 1970s and 1980s. Under the experienced and sensitive hand of winemaker Walter Finlayson, Blaauwklippen red wines, in particular, were regarded as among South Africa's best. Sadly, this reputation has faded over the years but with new vineyards coming onstream and Rolf Zeitvogel feeling the benefit of his four years as winemaker, the team have positive hopes for the future. This Landau range (named for the carriage pictured on the label, a feature of the Blaauwklippen wines since their inception), is designed as fresh and fruity for everyday enjoyment. This is precisely how the trio struck us. The grassy, floral freshness of the white is a clear, though not overdone indication of its sauvignon/chenin make up and agreeably anticipates the juicy flavours to follow. For me, the high acid curtails these, leaving a shortish finish; this is not the experience of TJ or CvZ, the latter particularly enjoying the granny smith apple freshness and textured, pithy finish. The roles are reversed on the rosé, where IM and I enjoy the clean, gentle red fruit aromas (from shiraz and cabernet sauvignon) and balanced fruity acids; these, rather than the 5 grams/litre of sugar, lend a pleasing finish to this light, fresh quaffer. A little too light and short on flavour for TJ and CvZ. The red, like any self-respecting vin ordinaire, should make a sound background performer on most occasions: it has a bit of everything but not too much of anything; IM demurs, noting a lack of generosity and some harshness. Its sweet, ripe red fruits are presented in a forthcoming yet unblowsy manner and unhindered by obvious oak, although a period in large oak has added a pleasant roundness, as does its age. Low tannins and balanced juicy freshness place it firmly in the popular quaffer category, exactly where it is aimed. - AL
De Toren The smartly-packaged Z (pronounced Zee) from Stellenbosch property, De Toren, is described as ‘another' rather than a ‘second’ wine. This second vintage yielded over a thousand cases fewer than the 3 400 produced in 2004. The assemblage too has changed: this year merlot and cabernet franc (50% and 30% respectively) are blended with 10% malbec and 5 % each of cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot. US critic Steve Tanzer enjoyed the maiden 2004 well enough to score it 90/100. We are somewhat less enthusiastic about this follow up. Very ripe (over-ripe for some), high-toned blackberry fruit aromas precede the wine’s sweet red fruit flavours. These are underpinned by well-judged fresh acidity and decent structure, but followed by a gawky - if savoury - finish. Further aeration in the opened bottle only served to accentuate the disharmony of the components, which doesn’t bode too well for the wine’s future. Meanwhile, it’s very much a matter of whether you like this ultra-ripe style. - IM
Fleur
du Cap First let it be said that if it’s a handsome bottle you’re after, wine seldom comes more smartly, elegantly packaged than this (even if the significance of the swan motif is obscure). This pricey Bergkelder offering is named in tribute to Julius Laszlo, the innovative Romanian/Hungarian refugee who became the company’s cellarmaster in 1975 and played an inspirational role on a much wider level. Not only does the wine look satisfyingly expensive, it smells it too, somehow, with an expressive but restrained nose alluding to cedary French oak as well as subtle fruit. The blend is half merlot, with 38% cab, plus a little each of malbec and petit verdot (mostly from vineyards in the Stellenbosch area). It doesn’t really put an elegant foot wrong (though IM found the firm tannins a little too astringent, and there were some murmurs about the herbal hints). Generally, though, we thought it ripe and fresh, well-fruited and with a surprisingly graceful texture for its substantial 14.3% alcohol. The only trouble is that it is just a little too bland and uncharacterful. The wine gained an extra half-point, though, by the way it improved in harmony tasted over a few days, which suggests that it is still much too young to be showing its best, and shouldn’t even be considered for another few years and should last well much longer still. – TJ
Kango Winery Founded in 1926 as the Kango Co-operative Tobacco Company, this Klein Karoo wine co-op now makes the full gamut of grape-based beverages (still, sparkling, dry and sweet wines, muscadel, brandy, witblits and liqueur). But they still take their wine quality aspirations seriously enough to secure grapes from some of the highest plantings in the Cape, stretching along the belt of mountain passes of the Swartberg and Outeniquas. Rising to 1000 metres above sea level, they are second only in altitude to Cederberg Cellars' vineyards. We all fell for the simple, honest charms of winemaker Flip Smith’s satisfying red blend – with none perceiving the 14.5% alcohol excessive. Rich, fresh mulberry and plum aromas assure equally generous, juicy, savoury fruit on the palate, bolstered by decent structure, and finishing sturdily. This perfect house wine, for easy, early drinking delivers well for the price. The opportunity for buying up almost the entire stock of this vintage was not lost by Swiss Air after it won a silver in their 2007 competition. The wine’s success will be shared by the many employees empowered by the winery's recent restructuring and ownership. - IM Website http://www.kangowines.com/
Monis
This first Vintage Muscadel since the award-winning 1992 from Distell’s fortified wine brand Monis was one of two wines whose sleek packaging (in a slim 500 ml bottle) qualified it for an upgrade from Gold to Platinum at the Muscadel Association’s 2007 awards. Mahogany in colour, with an olive green edge, the wine is more aged fortified in character than overtly grapey muscadel. A slight rancio character complements the raisined, sweet burnt caramel flavours, with hints of tea, tobacco and cinnamon adding further interest. The wine was aged six years in wood after being fortified to 16.5%, and AL commented that although the effect of oak was pleasing, the wine doesn't reach the level of concentration of its predecessor. The zippy packaging also sports a cheeky neck tag which echoes winemaker Dirkie Christowitz’s suggestion that the wine be served on crushed ice: “We mature every bottle of Monis Vintage Muscadel for 5 years, the least you could do is drink it as it was intended: ice cold”. We, however, would suggest you rather enjoy its unctuous appeal undiluted and at room temperature. - IM Website http://www.distell.co.za/
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Scoring Grape’s interpretation of the 20-point rating scale 0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant 10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound 12-13.5: Pleasant enough, decent but basically simple quaffer 14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement 16-16.5 Very good wine, offering something special 17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA 18-20 Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest !!! indicates especially good value
Prices Tasters for these wines
TJ – Tim James IM – Guest taster Ingrid Motteux, Cape-based wine consultant; taster for the Platter Guide For more information regarding the tasting procedures, tasters, etc, see the Recent releases contents page
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