RECENT RELEASES
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Recent releases for spring (1)
Wines from Anthony Smook, Delheim, Eikendal, Haskell, Lismore Estate Vineyards, Middelvlei and Versus
Anthony Smook Anthony Smook is a boutique producer (annual production 2 500 cases) based in the trendy ward of Voor-Paardeberg, a part of the Paarl district contiguous with the equally fashionable Swartland. The nine year old shiraz vineyards lie high on south-east-facing slopes, their cool aspect allowing for slow ripening, though as with most reds from around the area, its 15% alcohol is nothing unusual. This 2005 smelt a little rubbery at first with a suggestion of vanilla from the mainly French (10% new) oak. Once these blow off, there is a good whack of bright fruit. It is ripe but has a firm palate and some complexity from the year in oak, though the alcohol shows with some coarse notes on the finish. A controversial one, this: TJ, appreciating the wine's purity, advocated a higher score, while AL and GdF find it less appealing, noting both over-ripeness and an imbalance. – RP
Delheim Wines of Origin Simonsberg-Stellenbosch, both of these. The Shiraz, which Delheim regard as the pinnacle of quality from their cellar, is now also registered as a single-vineyard wine, from the eponymous parcel of vines. And a very handsome wine it is, deep-coloured, with notes of spice, smoked meat and that ubiquitous ‘red fruit’, not to mention a still-prominent touch of oakiness; it’s very Stellenbosch, somehow, in character, and polished, well-balanced and suave rather than elegant – the 14.5% alc, while not obtrusive, is not an aid to elegance, after all. I was probably the most enthusiastic, enjoying its firm tannic structure and silky texture, though it does finish a little dry; GdF was more doubtful – she found it a touch mean. But it stood up well to being open a few days, and looks generally like a wine which will only improve with a good few years’ cellaring, especially if this diminishes the impact of the overdone oaking.
Eikendal • Sauvignon Blanc 2007 R40 (f) 14 As the torrent of sauvignon blancs from the current vintage gathers full force, there appears a style to suit every palate. It is also true that many winemakers attempt to appeal to all palates within one wine, through blending riper and less ripe grapes, a method adopted by Henry Kotzé. He sourced a portion of the fruit from the cool West Coast with the balance from Eikendal's own Helderberg vineyards. Sometimes this approach works, other times it doesn't. The cooler features in Kotzé's sauvignon are obvious in the dusty, green pea aromas; the flavours that follow are of riper fruit, which appear to be supported by a little residual sugar, although this fails to give any length to the wine. Not a harmonious marriage at present, but a few months or more in bottle may help to unite the two ripeness levels and the rather edgy acid, also waiting to become part of the whole. – AL
Haskell The inaugural Boulder Road Shiraz from this Stellenbosch winery is named after their three rocky shiraz vineyards, the fruit of each vinified separately before blending. Winemaker Rianie Strydom says her intention when making shiraz is to retain the variety’s elegant and spicy character. She believes the best interpretations of this grape favour structure and savouriness rather than volume of fruit. We found some of her objectives achieved here, in the typical pepperiness on both nose and palate and some mid-palate savouriness. The prominent sweet, ripe dark berry fruit (cassis and blackberry) on both nose and palate make it difficult, however, to put it in the elegant category. The finish is overly dry and somewhat bitter, lending a rather gawky combination of ripe fruit and big tannins; overall there’s a lack of harmony. Nevertheless, sampled over the next couple of days, the tannins eased a little and the wine displayed somewhat better integration, which implies that a few years in bottle would be greatly beneficial to the wine. – GdF
Lismore Estate Vineyards • Chardonnay 2006 R130 15.5 Jack Easton and Samantha O’Keefe who make this wine on their inland property amongst the Riviersonderend Mountains near Greyton, blithely describe themselves on their letterheads as ‘Directors/Winemakers/Alchemists’ – that’s the spirit! This maiden Chardonnay comes from young Constantia vines, however. We didn’t much like the way the bottle was sealed with wax (a hand-crafted touch, but it makes for messy opening), but we all liked the wine a lot. It’s different: there’s character and interest here, rather than evidence of expensive cellar technology and over-education being devoted to polishing varietal character to the point of so-what? safe blandness. It’s quite earthy and oxidative, even a little rustic; savoury, with a richness from its (well integrated) ten months in oak – and from a little residual sugar. RP pushed for a higher rating, which the others sternly resisted despite, as mentioned, the pleasure given by an all-too-rare wine of real character. – TJ
Middelvlei
We have the Momberg family's customers to thank for this thoroughly agreeable wine. ‘Please give us an easy-drinking blend', came their request. Brothers Tinnie and Ben were happy to oblige but rather than release a ‘second label’, this merlot/shiraz blend has been developed as a member of the Middlevlei range in its own right. The label immediately delivers the quality message the Mombergs want to convey: it is classic and unfussy, the Red Falcon (the symbol on the Momberg family crest) a complementary accessory. The wine is similarly honest and unpretentious, its main charm lying in its comparatively moderate alcohol (13.5%) and rounded, dry finish. The two grapes have been harmoniously matched to show off the character of both without being overtly fruity, this aspect being enhanced by the wine's smooth yet firm build. The Mombergs describe it as ‘a palate-friendly wine to enhance all occasions'. We would endorse that, and add that it also offers exceptional value. – AL
Versus ‘Wine snobs beware – the pouch is uncorking drinking occasions’ headlines the press release on the new packaging of the popular Versus range from the Company of WIne People. This White is the same wine as in the familiar 1000ml bottle, but, strangely, from the vintage prior to that currently available in bottle. Even though the packaging isn't recyclable, it’s environmental impact is, apparently, lower. The pouch comes with a cut-out handle and its tap is opened by pressing – more easily manipulated with two hands than one. Usefully, a filling date is given, as well as the advice that the wine is best consumed within a month of being opened. So how is the wine? At 18 months old, the colour shows some development, though the palate is still firm and fresh. It is fat and easy, with a few grams of residual sugar. The chenin adds some texture and spice to what is a very drinkable wine at a very reasonable price: R40 for the equivalent of 2.6 standard (750ml) bottles. – RP
Zonnebloem
The grapes for this sauvignon from one of South Africa’s oldest wine brands are from vineyards in Stellenbosch, Darling and Malmesbury. The latter two ‘cooler’ sites and the wine’s pale straw colour could lead one to expect refreshing herbaceous aromas. What we found, however was a decidedly riper nose with attractive tangerine and passionfruit aromas. Less appealing are the thinnish flavours and short finish. This price point demands a little more interest and length. – GdF
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Scoring Grape’s interpretation of the 20-point rating scale 0-10: Faulty or just unpleasant 10.5-11.5: Dull, uninteresting but sound 12-13.5: Pleasant enough, decent but basically simple quaffer 14-15.5: Good and enjoyable, but no real excitement 16-16.5 Very good wine, offering something special 17-17.5 Fine and beautiful world-class wine, among the best in SA 18-20 Truly excellent, some even among the world’s finest !!! indicates especially good value
Prices Tasters for these wines
TJ – Tim James
Guest tasters: For more information regarding the tasting procedures, tasters, etc, see the Recent releases contents page
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