Distell’s organic effort takes off 26 November 2006

Tukulu debuts with some smart (and rare) ‘organic wines’

At the official media introduction to Distell’s Tukulu’s new organic wines, there was much talk about the wherewithal, market and future of such production-challenged wines - especially among the farm team, including the viticulturist, Adian Fry, the guy who bats nature’s curved balls  under these circumstances.

One got the impression that Distell, who owns 49 percent of this remarkable BEE project, is positioning the label as flagship for organic wines, should demand for such wines burst into bloom. The beautiful Papkuilsfontein farm at Darling, where Tukulu’s grapes are grown (and of which plenty go to the Nederburg brand), will shortly have all its vineyard blocks certifiably organic - and there is a massive planting of 375 hectares on the nearly 1 000-hectare property!

Tukulu launched two certified organic wines: a 2007 Chardonnay (retailing at around R55) and a 2006 Sangiovese (R75), both from organically-certified dryland vines.

The Sangiovese, still a rare variety on the South African market, in particular, adds a smart new wine to the range, which already boast both a splendid Chenin Blanc and prize-winning Pinotage, together with a Shiraz and now a new Viognier as well.

The wine, made by Elunda Basson from the classic Tuscan variety comes from an unirrigated block of 3.87 hectares organically farmed since 2001. It brings a very different flavour profile to the tasting bench in a very accessible elegant manner. It is indeed a classy way of introducing Distell’s organic strategy.

To be accredited by the Swiss-based international body, Société Générale de Surveillance (SGS), vines have to be farmed organically for at least three years. The Tukulu Chardonnay, which, in the new bottling, needs some time to show, was planted in 1998 and the Sangiovese a year later.

Interestingly, the bottles themselves do not proclaim the contents as ‘organic wine’ but as ‘organically produced’. Most wines loosely called ‘organic’ are, in fact, wines made from organic grapes, as the definition of ‘organic wine’ itself is rather contested (though the phrase is not legislated about in South Africa). In the USA, for example, no added sulphur is permitted (something very difficult to avoid if a stable, clean wine is wanted), but the SGS accreditation does permit a a limited quantity of sulphur usage. While this accreditation is something of which Tukulu can be proud, the labelling must allow for the wines to also be sold in situations where stricter rules apply.

The Papkuilsfontein farm was acquired in 1998 in a unique BEE project by Distell, a consortium of black entrepreneurs (36 percent) and a community trust which represents workers and members of the local community(15 percent), and has proven to be well placed for serious wine production. Farming organically seems to be quite a logical step, given the geographical position and conditions of the farm’s environment.

– Melvyn Minnaar