Beyerskloof: not only pinotage 9 October 2007

Beyers Truter’s surprising bag of high-quality tricks appeals to Melvyn Minnaar

The announcement that the Platter Guide gurus had finally awarded a full house of five stars to the latest release of the flagship wine from Beyerskloof, did not so much put a brighter spotlight onto the quality coming out of Beyers Truter’s ever eye-catching boutique winery (not quite so small any more, mind you!), as illuminate a little of the unusual way he and his cellar colleagues go about their business.

First up was the surprise: the Platter people announced that, after the famous deciding taste-off, five starts had been awarded to a ‘Beyerskloof Field Blend 2003’. Even those who thought they are familiar with what comes out of that Stellenbosch winery took a second look. The new name, as it turned out to be, is simply a better way of labelling what everyone tautologically called “Beyerskloof Beyerskloof’ - the up-to-now name of the winery’s flagship red blend, frequently lauded internationally and many times on-the-outside-looking-in, five Platter star-wise.

The name is a charming understatement of where the grapes come from: the vineyard immediately below the cellar, planted to merlot and cabernet sauvignon in the 1990s, carefully tended to terroir expression and then harvested together for vinification - in the traditional, poetic manner (‘Gemischter Satz’ Germans and Austrians call it). The ratio is more or less, says Truter, 20 percent merlot to the 80 cabernet. Whilst vinification of this ‘field’ is to the highest precision and terroir expression sought, there is an element of surprise built into the harvesting process.

The success of the Field Blend highlight again the paradox of Beyerskloof. In the minds of most wine lovers, the name is so closely associated with pinotage that the existence of the Bordeaux-style blend, not to mention its class, is something of a surprise (though do not forget that Truter was long responsible for the Paul Sauer blend at Kanonkop, still one of the country’s top reds).

Pinotage, of course…

Beyerskloof Pinotage is probably, as they boast light-heartedly, the largest selling pinotage on the planet! With Beyers Truter’s pinotage credentials, the winery - which was established in 1989, bottled a super red blend in 1990 - took on pinotage as its USP on a big scale. No other winery can play the pinotage game on this level.

New releases spell it out. A new-style, much drier Beyerskloof Brut Pinotage Rosé 2007, made in the charmat method is the prettiest pale pink, has a fresh fruity tang and long, lingering bubbles. The Pinotage Rosé 2007 is rose pink with an unexpected grapey richness, sweet berries, rose and tang of spice. The Pinotage Reserve 2006 has whiffs of wood spice and fresh pinot fruit, cherries with almond whiff. Soft, drinkable, sturdy tannins, structure and refreshing acid.

Beyerskloof Synergy 2005 is the winery’s so-called ‘Cape blend’, which partners pinotage with merlot, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot. This release is endearingly unusual with a touch of wildness cutting through with a certain warmth. It is juicy with New World berry fruitiness. Modern, finely and seamlessly crafted, and very drinkable.

Another pinotage-driven bottling is the port-styled Lagare Cape Vintage 2006. It is inky black and if the nose is a little spiritous for now, there is dark brooding, vibrant fruit with fresh acid, clean smooth tannins and dry-ish finish.

Those who have followed the Bordeaux-styled top-end blend will simply love the Beyerskloof Field Blend 2003. A deep dark royal red of shimmering crimson has a bold enchanting perfume of classic French blend and depth reaching out of the glass. The palate is  soft, clean, intense. Deliciously dry with bold, but soft tannins, medium structure, and yet juicy.  No upfront fruitiness, rather the invitation and allure of secondary complexity to come. Cassis, savoury bouillon, a tang of citrus and tar. All the promise of things to come and undoubtedly a five-star wine.

• Label-readers will notice that all the new releases have health notices on their labels. Warning pregnant women not to drink, Beyerskloof, which also has its own Faith fund supporting FAS charities, has taken the lead as far as this is concerned.