A journey to heaven and earth 24 January 2008

Angela Lloyd visits some producers in the Hemel en Aarde valley

The establishment of a tar road, where once there was just gravel track, gives notice of a prospering area. This is clearly true of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, today a few minutes by car from the coastal town of Hermanus. In the 18^th century, the wheels turned more slowly; Georg Schmidt, a Moravian Missionary recorded the valley was ‘Just an hour by horse cart from Hermanuspietersfontein [the town's unwieldy, full name, now revived in the name of Bartho Eksteen’s new winery there).

Such isolation then was deemed a welcome necessity, as the area was home to a leper colony. Today the lepers have been replaced by vineyards and wineries, the increasing number and their success marked by the ever-extending tarred R320 between Hermanus and Caledon.

When Tim Hamilton-Russell started his eponymous winery in the mid 1970s it was dirt track all the way. Twenty years passed before cars could drive the first five kilometres or so on smooth tar; further extensions were made around 1999 and 2003 - each reflects the progress and popularity of wine in the valley. There are now close on a dozen producers based there, with many others sourcing fruit from this prized cool climate area.

Virgin temptations

La Vierge (‘The Virgin’) is one of the newer properties and commands the skyline at the Newton Johnson's old cellar. KZN businessman Peter Clarke, whose interest in wine stems from his import/export business, purchased the property in 2002. Marc van Halderen joined the venture as winemaker in 2005 after graduating from Elsenberg and a stint at Steenberg.This latter experience will stand him in good stead with the farm's emphasis on MCC bubbly and sauvignon.

Two versions of sauvignon blanc are already on the market; the La Vierge and La Vierge Temptation, both 2007s and the latter a label for declassified wine. The Temptation is a first crop from the Domaine des Dieux vineyards above the watershed towards Caledon, while the La Vierge is from older vines around the winery; both show good varietal definition though acid levels are a little unbalanced.

Yet to be released is the first label, Domaine des Dieux, the most successful, sophisticated and expensive of the trio of sauvignons, with its riper though still cool vinosity, weight and mineral thread. It's one of those wines that doesn't have to flaunt its presence to make a positive impact.

The MCC bubbly, an as yet un-released 2006, also under the Domaine des Dieux label, is an exciting addition to this category, though it won't be on the market for another year.  Sensibly, this 75/25 chardonnay/pinot noir blend is being held back until it has spent three years on the lees – one of the criticisms of local bubblies is that, due to demand, they are released too young. A 30 percent portion fermented in older barrels adds a creamy dimension to the authentic biscuity nose, malic apple flavours and pinpoint fine, persistent bubble. A really elegant, delicate wine that will be joined in time by an MCC rosé.

As far as reds go, thanks to the influence of Peter Finlayson (at near neighour BOuchard Finlayson), nebbiolo, sangiovese and barbera have been planted along with syrah and mourvèdre, the idea being to have a multi-varietal blend. Currently available is a rather oaky Shiraz-Mourvèdre under the Temptation label.

But these are early days and La Vierge is a winery to watch, though it might be taken more seriously with less garish label designs! (See them on the winery website.)

Newton Johnson

The Johnsons themselves have moved up the valley to a custom-built cellar with an even more stunning view than that commanded by their previous property.

The Newton Johnson wines are not as well known locally as they deserve to be, mainly because 80 percent of their production is exported. But this is already beginning to change, partly thanks to the crowds pouring into their new restaurant, the aptly-named Heaven, owned and run by Bruce Robinson (of B's Steakhouse fame).

Dave Johnson is an experienced, all-round industry man; among his many achievements are running the Nederburg Auction, tasting for Platter and passing his Cape Wine Master exam, his dissertation covering Pinot Noir in South Africa. His passion for Burgundy has been passed on to his sons, cellarmaster Gordon and marketing man Bevan. But this is a family concern and the Johnson women are also integral cogs in the business wheel. Felicity (née Newton, hence the brand name), Dave's wife, had an important hand in designing the new cellar; Ezanne, Bevan's wife, is a graphic artist and is responsible for the website while Nadia Cilliers (all set to marry Gordon after the 2008 harvest) is the winemaker (in the pic below with Gordon).

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are signature wines in their small range; both show a delightful sense of confidence and style (see Grape's New Releases review of the Chardonnay 2006). But it's invidious to single out just this duo, for the NJ Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah-Mourvèdre are equally attractive. Fruit for these wines is presently bought in; the chardonnay from Kaaimansgat vineyard near Villiersdorp, pinot noir and sauvignon blanc from Elgin, syrah and sauvignon blanc from the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, and mourvèdre from Malmesbury – but all are either already or soon to be planted in the home vineyards.

The cellar was carefully designed so that the whole winemaking process is gravity-fed; this, together with the mantra of minimal intervention, encourages a purity of expression in the wines, as do the mainly moderate alcohol levels. The Pinot Noir is bigger (14 to14.4 percent alcohol) and with more tannin structure than many local pinots but size is contrasted by exciting vibrancy and freshness, so the all-important balance is right.

And how often isn't a winemaker who understands pinot also sensitive to the needs of shiraz? The Newton Johnson Syrah-Mourvèdre is a fragrant, refined wine with supple texture and enticing savouriness.

But perfection is a journey rather than a destination. Ongoing fine-tuning of natural ferment, selection and percentage of new oak is illustrative of the team's attention to detail.

The results are best appreciated with one of Bruce Robinson's generously-portioned, tasty dishes; together with the splendid view of the earth with its abundant fynos as well as vines, the sky and the sea on the horizon, not forgetting a tarred road to reach this idyll, one could truly feel in heaven.

Links:
• La Vierge
• Newton Johnson Wines