Vilafonté parallel vertical 11 February 2008

Angela Lloyd’s notes on a tasting of a pair of the Cape’s more expensive red blends

The prospect of a vertical tasting is always enticing, the event itself usually a satisfying and illuminating experience. There's extra interest when two wines which are stylistically different but made up of basically the same varieties are involved, and when the range starts with the maiden vintage.

Vilafonté partners Zelma Long, Phil Freese and Mike Ratcliffe as well as winemaker, Bernard le Roux and relationship manager Pippa Wordie were as full of anticipation as I was, since this was to be the first time they had tasted both of their wines across every vintage to date at one sitting.

Our goals were to assess vintage characteristics, evolution over the five vintages and differences between the wines, a task demanding unusual concentration.

The all-red, Paarl-based Vilafonté vineyards are planted to cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and malbec. A noticeable variation between blocks encouraged the team to focus on producing two, stylistically different wines, rather than a first and second wine, which had been the initial idea. Series M, fronted by merlot, is designed to be the more accessible of the pair; Series C, with cabernet sauvignon heading the blend, takes longer to show its paces. [See also Grape 26 - 'Origins']

The partnership couldn't have wished for a better vintage than 2003 in which to produce the first Vilafonté wines: a cold, wet winter preceded ideal harvesting conditions; from the start, reds showed good colour and flavour from smaller than usual berries.

Series M 2003: Still youthful, layered ruby brilliance. Intense nose but the ripe plum, soft red berries show some development. Vigorous and big with supple tannins and powerful finish, but still quite tight, though future evolution might be limited by lack of fruit richness.

Series C 2003: More youthful appearance than M with evident purple tones. High-toned aromas of fresh cab cassis, herbs and spice but also showing some development. Very cab structure; fine, grippy tannin with solid dry finish. More fruit richness than M, but possibly insufficient for the structure and power. It has time to go, but possibly not as long as the best from this year.

A stylistic difference is apparent, if without the confident expression of later vintages.

Harvest in 2004 was a long affair, with full ripeness being reached at slightly lower sugars, resulting in moderate alcohol levels. Overall reds show excellent colour, fruit and structure.

Series M 2004: Ripe, dark-centred blackcurrant with intense ruby edge. The greater ripeness is confirmed in the intense black berry, roast coffee vinosity, happily matched by richer, mouthcoating concentration. Good balance and supple tannins augur well, though the wine has yet to reveal its full dimension.

Series C 2004:  Advanced appearance as compared with the 03 and 04 M. Broad quite evolved aromas with a ripe, meaty quality. Very firm, structured entry, richness, breadth and juicy tannins developing later and providing a lengthy finish.

Both wines are a noticeable step up from 2003, though buck the lower alcohol trend; both need time to open up and develop complexity.

Congratulations are due with the 2005s, when true excitement and distinction are evident in both wines. It was a difficult harvest, described as the 'driest, wettest, earliest and hottest' even though the Cape was in the grip of a drought. An end January an electric storm benefited coastal reds, but alcohols were the highest in recent years.

Series M 2005: Very deep, youthful blue purple colour. Lovely concentration of fragrant sweet red and black berries and spice. Undoubtedly a big mouthful but lightened by its silky elegance, freshness, beautiful tannins and a long, savoury finish. Great focus and personality.

Series C 2005: Youthful and brilliant. Seductively fragrant oak spice, sweet blackberries and much else yet to be revealed. Striking cabernet tannins, but matched by real concentration and fresh core, which gives the wine precision. Firm and dry with great savoury length. Exemplifies power with elegance.

Winemaker Bernard le Roux believes there's too little difference between the wines, the M having too much power. While that is a common denominator, I find the structures quite different. But the pair are far off their best, and deserve at least two to three more years before opening.

The following two vintages, 2006 and 2007, were tasted as tank samples; the 2006 just on the point of being bottled.

The former vintage was noted for its wind, drought, fires and power cuts, conditions tempered by a wet, cold winter, cool night-time summer temperatures, lower yields and smaller berries. The prognosis is for ageworthy wines with purity, concentration, balanced acids and structures. For anyone who hasn't experienced the halo effect of tasting more elegant wines after a powerful vintage, you only need follow 2005 with 2006

Series M 2006: Good clarity but more ruby than youthful purple. Expressive coffee, spice and minerals delivered with more relaxed refinement than 2005 also suggested by the silky, lighter mouthfeel. If less dense than 2005, this has more layers of flavour, vinosity and lively minerality as well as youthful, vibrant tannins that require a few years to meld and soften. Worth the wait!

Series C 2006: Darker than M but showing the same ruby hue. Toasty oak is still obvious with savoury coffee rather than berry sweetness. Despite an elegant, lighter feel, there's plenty of fruit richness and insistent tannins, all of which have yet to fully knit. Exciting potential here.

Good distinction between the pair and Long believes the M is close to their target.

As far as 2007 goes, the wines have a further year in oak before bottling, so detailed comment would be invidious. Suffice to say both appear to have excellent potential, the C in particular promises to be a stunner. Phil Freese commented both wines already show sophistication. I find both greater quality and individuality. The vintage was marked by January's sustained, high temperatures, followed by cooler weather and a couple of wet spells. Top reds promise to be keepers.

• The currently available 2004 vintage of Series M retails for about R250, the Series C for about R350

• Link to the Vilafonté website