Tasting the Cape wines America likes 17 April 2008

Angela Lloyd’s notes on the Wine Spectator’s top ten South African wines, from a
recent tasting in Stellenbosch

It doesn't seem so long ago that South African wine producers were tiptoeing carefully around exporting to America. Their caution was as much due to the unknown taste preference of this huge audience as the labyrinthine regulations of what are, in effect, 51 different markets.

Much wear and tear of shoe-leather later, persistence is paying off: exports to the US are not only increasing, South Africa and its wines are also attracting attention from the all important US arbiters of taste, whether Steve Tanzer, the Wine Enthusiast or the Wine Spectator (if not yet Parker).

While attention is good, the right rating is essential to ensure sales and that means a score of 90 or more on the 100 point scale generally used in the US. A very narrow window confirmed by Ken Forrester, whose FMC Chenin Blanc 2006 has recently rated 93 on the all-important Wine Spectator and is thus flying off the shelves. 'You can forget selling a bottle with a score of 89 or less,' he told the small group gathered to taste the top ten South African wines as recently awarded by the Spectator's James Molesworth.

In fact an impressive 22 wines, including two Top Values, scored over 90, some entirely expected, others - to local palates - perhaps more surprising. I didn't hold out much hope of enjoying any of the 05 reds due to the vintage's extremely high alcohols. I'm pleased to say I did, but couldn't have managed more than a glass with dinner. I wonder if those Americans who do actually buy and drink these wines feel the same as I do.

Working from Wine No. 10, with Wine Spectator rating in brackets, my comments are as follows:

Cape Point Vineyards Isliedh 2006 (92)

Served straight out of Duncan Savage's ice cold 'cool bag', the wine showed little more than its inherent minerality. Later and slightly warmer (recommended) those pure tangerine/honey/lemongrass aromas filled the glass. Rather like one of those Atlantic rollers, which these Noordhoek vineyards overlook, before unleashing its full power, this cruises smoothly and with deceptive gentleness, the full roar still building underneath. Leave a further 3 to 4 years for full potential to unfurl.

Capaia 2006 (92)

A compact, elegant Bordeaux-style blend, led by 55% cabernet sauvignon with 27% merlot, 15% cabernet franc, 3% petit verdot. Fresh and still primary but with complexity there to develop with time. The lightness of touch seems to be a factor of vintage and is enhanced by a fine, firm structure and dry, long finish, though these features are not at the expense of substance.

Ataraxia Mountain Chardonnay 2006 (92)

An equal blend of fruit from Witzenberg Valley, where the vines are grown on their own roots, and Hemel en Aarde Valley combine in this sophisticated, characterful chardonnay. Minerality and citrusy freshness are standout features, yet there's also underlying richness and I look forward to development of the tempting notes of nuttiness and oatmeal. Kevin Grant notes with sadness that he's had to look elsewhere for similar quality grapes, since the contribution of the Witzenberg fruit has proved so successful.  

Warwick Estate Reserve 2005 (93)

We know this as Trilogy, which name cannot be used in the US as it's already the trademark of a Californian winery. True to the vintage in its boldness, the wine's grippy tannins signal its 60% cabernet sauvignon base and 50% new French oak. Cab franc (30%) offers some spicy fragrance and dimension, but plenty of time is needed for the wine to relax and soften.

Rudi Schultz Syrah 2005 (93)

Molesworth's 'Exotically ripe' I agree with but I'm not so sure about 'yet not top-heavy thanks to a mineral streak.' Rudi has done a sensitive job as far as extraction and oaking go, neither is overdone, allowing syrah's natural supple nature full rein. The black fruits and whiff of spice are ripe yet layered but the high alcohol eventually kicks in with a vengeance.

MR Mvemve Raats De Compostella 2005 (93)

'A large wine' notes Molesworth without exaggeration. Perhaps the size of this cab franc, cab sauvignon, petit verdot, malbec and merlot (33/26/17/17/7) blend impressed him or that there are only 420 bottles made, but for all its good points - refined tannins, judicious oaking - alcohol remains the dominant feature.

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2002 (93)

Quite simply gorgeous. Molesworth mentions blood orange and ginger, both good descriptors. Lush yet balanced by a strong acid thread and not oversweet, which shows up the richly layered flavours. Delicious now but with legs to go for many years, when it will be even more like drinking history.

Ken Forrester The FMC 2006 (93)

What a pity that most of this refined youngster will be consumed far off its prime. Even now, it deserves at least two or three years before broaching. Aromatically it has much to reveal, though fragrant fruit and oak promise future greater harmony and complexity. The palate is more revealing with a refreshing linear thread to the sumptuous, botrytised-enriched fruit.  Despite just on 9 grams of residual sugar and high alcohol, I do feel that as the wine matures, so it will become mellow and lose its current youthful sweetness.

De Trafford Shiraz 2005 (94)

The sole shiraz to be awarded a Platter five star rating in the 2008 guide, which is no mean feat! For me this is a modern Barossa style, while Molesworth describes it as 'very rich', which it is too, the textured layers matched by layers of youthful flavour, mainly bright spice and red fruits. But there's also a focussed freshness about it which helps to contain the whopping 15.3% alcohol and probably also any finishing sweetness.

Sadie Family Columella 2005 (95)

Chave Hermitage has always been Eben Sadie's point of reference and here he contrives the delicacy and concentration of the Northern Rhône, though with only 75% shiraz (the balance mourvèdre) it doesn't follow Hermitage in composition. The fragrance, the minerals, the silky tannins are all as one in this striking individual. It really does put all local shirazes and wines of this style into perspective.

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