When low is quite delightful 26 May 2008

Woolworths’ new  light wines give real satisfaction to Melvyn Minnaar

Most in the South African wine business don’t want to talk about it, but high alcohol is a problem. And if they talk about it, excuses abound. The bottom line is that even many dyed-in-the-wool wine drinkers don’t want to battle with 14 percent alcohol – often more, seldom less – over a hamburger.

Any way, hand it to Allan Mullins, the person who has revolutionised Woolworth‘s wine (and, in a way, many South Africans’ encounter with food and wine), as well as Frans Smit, Spier’s quiet, but oh-so-bright, winemaker, to tackle the problem full frontal.

There may have been mickey-mouse ‘low-alcohol’ wines around for some time (which few take seriously, despite health organisations’ stamp of approval), but a new small Woolies range of  ‘light wines’ seem, on the face of it, to be a genuine effort to produce low alcohol wines that don’t taste as if you’re making a confession to your weight-watching shrink.

Mullins is upfront about how difficult it is to make good low alcohol wines in South Africa, where ripe grapes deliver high sugar, turning into high alcohol. It’s a question of earlier harvesting, hanging onto balance, and then fiddling with additions (like a dash of very ripe chenin, for example).

Thumbs up to three new releases from Woolworths, all at a very drinkable nine percent alcohol (neatly balanced in terms of acid and slightly higher sugar) and with convenient screwcaps: Light Chenin Blanc, Light Sauvignon Blanc and, surprisingly, Light Shiraz.

Shiraz, obviously, plays the fashion game, but it is a pleasant surprise: spicy and fruity. The Robertson vineyard delivered some grassy pepper to the sauvignon; while the chenin is delightfully honeyed - possible the best of the three wines, making a good statement for the Cape’s noble grape.

Low alcohol wine for easy drinking is a sharp need in the market. It makes plenty of sense and Woolworths’ Allan Mullins is doing it. Other pretend, but some hard work had gone into this. Cheers!