In search of wines past: Part 4 6 Frebruary 2007

As a new grouping sets out to advance the interests of 'real riesling' in the Cape, Angela Lloyd finds a delicious example from 1997

Real Riesling Revivalists – okay, it's a bit of an alliterative mouthful but it sums up the sentiment of a bunch of riesling enthusiasts determined to see this classic white variety given its proper due in South Africa.

It's ironic that as riesling becomes an even smaller blip on the Cape's vineyard map (276ha in the 2005 vine count, representing 0.3 per cent of the total vineyard area, down from 0.8 per cent in 1998) consumers are showing renewed interest.

It is precisely to build on this interest that Klein Constantia's Lowell Jooste recently invited riesling producers and media to discuss the formation of an as yet un-named group to promote the variety. My RRR name for the group might be a little off the wall, but who wants another ‘association' or `forum'? (Hermann Kirschbaum of Buitenverwachting vows he wouldn't join if either word were used!) and it might do something to meet Bruce Jack's plea to 'make riesling exciting'.

Local riesling producers should take heart from the variety's growth in popularity in the rest of the world. It is no longer considered ‘underrated' in the United States, where, highlighted by German riesling's excellent growth in sales and media attention, even Californian winegrowers are finding a ready market for their riesling grapes. Germany is, of course, the spiritual home of riesling and today produces mesmerising wines on a thankfully regular basis.

Indeed, when, with great bravery and resolve, I stood at the top of the vertiginous, slippery slopes of the Urziger Würzgarten vineyard, trying not to look down at the Mosel so far below (vertigo sufferers like myself should not even contemplate working in these vineyards!), I wondered why on earth the Germans bother with vineyards and lesser varieties on the flat land on the opposite bank. Those slopes may be hair-raising, but they do produce the most fabulous wines. A practical observation confirming the old adage that great achievements don't come easily – or words to that effect.

Australia's Clare Valley is in the vanguard of New World rieslings. Recognition was achieved not only by the area's suitability but also through all the valley's winemakers working together. They also en masse took the decision to throw out the cork and twirl on the screwcap, thus starting that revolution seven years ago. And it's as well to remember that in the not too distant pass a variety known as Clare riesling was grown in the valley; this riesling was none other than our old – um – friend, crouchen blanc. So there's hope for us yet!

And in the Cape too

Unlike the Clare Valley producers, South Africa's 21 local riesling producers are scattered across the winelands, from the Swartland to the Swartberg via Robertson, with the majority in Stellenbosch. If this adds an extra challenge to the group's success, it also offers an opportunity to show that the spirit of cooperation can exist across regional boundaries. A positive result should see this small group being much more effective than those with more members but not all with similar commitment.

Tackling viticulture and vinification obviously will be important focus points, but it was good to hear Paul Cluver, Adam Mason and Bruce Jack stress consumer involvement as equally meaningful. Frankly, I can't think why the other varietal interest groups don't give marketing more attention.

Once the riesling revival is on a roll and everyone has wines available, there are ideas aplenty to nourish consumer curiosity: older vintages as well as current offerings could be available for tasting at the cellars during a riesling week. As I'll tell you, local riesling can have brilliant ageing potential. At the same time, restaurateurs should be encouraged to come on board, by holding riesling dinners and getting more real riesling on their wine lists. (I say real riesling advisedly, as I have it on good authority that the riesling category on the wine list at Simon's restaurant, Groot Constantia, speaks of the variety as one of the world's greatest white wines, long-lived etc etc but the only wine listed is … Theuniskraal Riesling – made of course from crouchen. Oh dear!) Real riesling, as Paul Cluver points out, is ‘one of the most exciting white varieties in the world and can partner the greatest variety of foods.'

Wild boar? Well, that was just one of many ideas tossed around by Harald Bresselschmidt owner/chef of Aubergine, at the recent Egon Muller Scharzhofberger vertical tasting (see Cathy blog on this). I'm sure he's spot on, but for want of being able to lay hands on such an animal to accompany the Klein Constantia Rhine Riesling 1997 I discovered at the bottom of the cellar, I dreamed up a Thai-influenced tuna dish: a thick steak halved, sandwiched with a wasabi, balsamic and pickled ginger marinade, then quickly fried so it was hot throughout but still pink.

It was delicious; the partnership worked a dream and, can you believe it, the wine was brilliant. The pickled ginger proved an inspiration that perfectly set off the wine's dazzling racy spice. This memorable ten-year-old was still so zingy and fresh, the lime and spice edged with gentle honeyed botrytis. Like all great rieslings, it quivered with tension; even at 12% alcohol, there was a sense of lightness and drive, the perfect relationship between sugar and acid ensuring the complex flavours made an interminable finish. It could have successfully achieved a riesling revival all on its own.

COMMENT

From Helge Hagener:
You are right, Paul. There is no white variety that is more exciting than Riesling. I live in Germany and have access to the world greatest Rieslings, but even the decent easy-drinking Rieslings from Germany, like the entry-level Riesling from Bassermann-Jordan, are so delicious, that I am hardly looking for other white varieties in the German summer.

I write about South African wines for some German magazines, and include great Sauvignons, astonishing Chenins and balanced Chardonnays from the Cape. I would so much look forward to writing about great South African Rieslings that are not dominated by extract, alcohol or/and sugar, but balanced with fresh fruit and acidity.

Keep up the good work for Riesling and don't call your group 'association' or `forum', so that Hermann Kirschbaum will join!

From Charl du Plessis: