Morgenhof's focus on quality 23 February 2007

Angela Lloyd visits one of the first Cape wineries to benefit from foreign investment

Since South Africa's return to the international market place in the early 1990s, the influx of foreign investment to the local wine industry has gained momentum to the extent it is no longer a surprise to find some high-profile name buying into a business or land anywhere across the Cape winelands. The exchange rate has, of course, been an incentive, as has the relative freedom from regulatory constraints pertaining particularly in the European wine industries. The weather also appeals to those from northern Europe. Another advantage as far as well-connected foreigners are concerned is a ready international market for their South African wines.

But none of these offers any guarantee of success. South Africa has proved as susceptible as the next wine country to the vagaries of fashion and over-production; in reality, the foreign investor is just as much at risk as his or her local counterpart.

An invitation to visit Morgenhof provided an opportune occasion to see how one of the pioneering foreign investors is faring.

The modern renaissance of this historic property, dating from 1692, began under the ownership of Johannesburg-based German businessmen in 1981. Anne Cointreau, whose family is steeped in the French wine industry,  purchased it from them in 1993, since when the farm has steadily grown in reputation and popularity.

After a flurry of initial building operations, including a new temperature and humidity controlled underground maturation cellar, designed for maximum operational efficiency and beautifying the property to reflect French flair without spoiling the Cape vernacular ambience, the focus has centred on the vineyards. Of the farm's 212 hectares, 75 ha are today planted with cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, pinotage, touriga nacional, chardonnay, chenin blanc and sauvignon blanc. A wide variety of soils, slopes and aspects offer favourable growing conditions.
 

Continuity and teamwork

Jean Daneel was winemaker when Anne Cointreau purchased the farm; Riane Strydom (then Geldenhuys), his assistant, took over the winemaking reins when Daneel left to start his own brand and remained there for ten years. Her assistant, Jacques Cilliers, in turn took over from Strydom in January 2005. This smoothing of winemaker succession has been beneficial for continuity of style, added to which viticulturist Pieter Haasbroek is now in his ninth year at the farm.

Cointreau stresses they work as a team and it was encouraging that owner, winemaker and viticulturist tasted with me and could discuss the wines together, whether tanks of newly fermenting wine, last year's vintage in barrel or older bottled wines. They also jointly decide on blends and Cilliers assures he is involved in the vineyards as well, a situation that leads all round to a better understanding of goals.

Morgenhof today produces in the order of 30 000 cases and is well represented worldwide. Cointreau herself travels extensively throughout the year to promote the wines, the emphasis being on restaurant listings. Stylistically, the Morgenhof range is classic and food-oriented, hardly surprising given Cointreau's French upbringing.

It would be easy to adjudge Morgenhof as a success just by the number of people who visit the farm, which is very conveniently situated right on the busy R44, but anyone who spends time with Cointreau and her team will quickly realise there are more long-lasting and basic reasons. The team spirit among the entire staff is one. Cointreau herself has a solid business and marketing background, with qualifications in both from French and US universities.

Success here is due to an absolute focus on quality and a sound business plan - as it could be at any wine farm applying these principles.

Tasting: A selection of the Morgenhof range

Prices given are approximate retail

Brut NV R65
A 60/40 chardonnay, pinot noir blend, fermented in older oak barrels. It spends eight months on lees and a further two years on crown cap. The dosage is mainly aged chardonnay with a drop of noble late harvest, providing 5 grams per litre of residual sugar. The wine benefits from this lengthy ageing, showing more complexity and roundness with elegant, authentic biscuity notes and a well-sustained creamy mousse.
 

Sauvignon Blanc 2006 R48
Fruit is drawn from vineyards at three different levels, thus flavours range from tropical through to cooler gooseberry, the overall profile inclining towards the cooler spectrum. The wine is elegantly expressive without being too blowsy. Time on the lees adds a balanced textured weight to the naturally vibrant acid. A style that can hold its fruit and freshness with a year or two in the bottle.
 

Chardonnay 2005 R48
Oaking complements the restrained limey, tropical tones here. The texture is creamy but not over rich and highlights an interesting range of flavours that finish on a savoury note. A substantial but not exhausting partner for a wide variety of dishes.
 

Merlot Reserve 2001 R162
Merlot has performed consistently and well at Morgenhof. The style is dark fruited, opulent and mouthfilling. Welcomingly, there is no sense of either under- or over-ripeness; the wine has a fresh, clean feel which adds to its length. Oaking and tannins are now much more in harmony with the wine than some earlier versions, though the balance and overall structure allow for good maturation potential.
 

Première Sélection 2001 R150
An excellent vintage that exemplifies the classicism of Morgenhof's range. A blend of 60 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 25 per cent merlot with 9 per cent cabenet franc and 6 per cent malbec. Fresh, ripe and generous bouquet of dark soft berries; rich, multi-layered and creamily mouthfilling, all this balanced by elegant, clean lines and dry, sustained finish. A consummate blend that will benefit from at least a further three to four years maturation.