Cabernet was king in 1997 16 March 2007

Notes by Roland Peens of the Wine Cellar on a
tasting of some leading Cape cabs and blends from 1997

The tasting was held with paying guests at the Wine Cellar in Observatory, Cape Town on 21 February 2007

A decade on, we assembled the top cabernets from the cool and rainswept 1997 vintage. We have since been accustomed to some sunny and plush vintages with high alcohols and softer acidities – the 1997s were different. Grapes were picked extremely late and growers battled for physiological ripeness; with pickings into April, some cabernets were pulled off two months later than in 2007! (Do we really need to question climate change?) The constant moisture around the fruit bunches and highly infected plant material back then made viruses a huge hindrance.

Balance was therefore difficult to achieve; most wines were medium bodied with elevated acidity and angular tannins. There has been talk of elegance for 1997 – but were we in for a palate-taunting ride?

Maturing vs ageing

Merlot-enriched wines made up the first flight. The Uitkyk Carlonet was immediately described by Chris Williams (winemaker at Meerlust and The Foundry) as “Bergkelderised”…. Spot-on! It was almost embryonic in its linearity and undeveloped nature, as if the wine is stuck in time; not improving or developing much. It was rich, however, and showed firm tannins and acidity allowing for another decade of aging but perhaps never finding maturity.

The Jordan Cobblers Hill contrasted with femininity and tertiary flavours; the high-merlot constitution produced a slightly weedy nose and the coffee-like oak hindered its plummy-fruit and elegance. A surprise for the evening was the Verdun Theresa’s Blend (now Asara). It was Bordeaux-like in its elegance and poise and its tannic frame encased masses of sweet fruits. The Warwick Trilogy 1997 never grabbed my attention too much amongst the sturdy and impressive 1995s and 1998s – it followed suit on this occasion. There was some ‘funk’ on the nose with buchu and a developed toffee-like finish. Some suspected this to be the aftermath of the serious virus infestation of the vintage where ripeness was detrimentally affected.

Morgenhof’s Premier Selection again reminded me of the French style, though the New World purists regarded the brettanomyces character as a little too overt. I enjoyed the savoury richness, Margaux-like Christmas-cake edges, extreme concentration and long structure finish. My favourite and runner-up of the first flight.

Meerlust Rubicon had connections to the Bergkelder in those days (it used to be bottled there), but its stylish prowess and tertiary depth gave much character. It was lean and floral, finishing with fine chalky tannins. Drink up!

The runaway winner for the second time at Wine Cellar’s vintage tastings was the Grangehurst Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot; superbly balanced with firm tannins, black fruits and spice – its youth is unbelievable. There was an evident cedary phenolic edge that would certainly assist with further maturation. Jeremy Walker, please keep some back for 2017 and 2027?

Rustenberg Stellenbosch (now John X Merriman) is one of a few in the line-up of 1997s that I believe has passed its finest hour. Vanillin and elevated acidy protruded as if all its components were parting company.

We rounded off the first flight with the Neil Ellis Cabernet Sauvignon. Meaty, minty nose with dense fruit and a soft elegant palate; some tasters were put off by coffee edges and a slight greenness.

Cabernet is king

Beyerskloof’s weight and power certainly deserved entry into flight 2: it was spicy, dense with a chewy texture and extremely long finish. Here the merlot added an extra dimension – a departure from the first flight; a certain top 5 contender. Another much admired wine was the De Trafford Cabernet Sauvignon, with the silkiest tannins of all. Graphite and minerals encased the sweet-fruited finish. The class and structure will allow another decade of cellaring, though it is probably at its height of stardom.

Thelema, one of the Platter five-stars of the night, was a disappointment, however. Trademark mint and leanness led to a short coarse finish – maybe we’re just too critical of what this wine is able to achieve. The winner of the second flight, though not much liked by the winemaker (even after we unveiled it!), was the Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. Shy at first, its floral edges opened up to espresso, mint and cassis. Fantastic depth and opulence on the palate followed by a long perfectly-balanced perfumed finish. Webersberg, made then the Meerlust team, showed too much of the old-school SA red character: overt dust and leather surrounded a sweet core and rustic tannic finish.

The first bottle of Boekenhoutskloof was blatantly oxidised, the next showed some similar character, but was purer. It was a little baked and the mineral edges contrasted solid fruit core. We all agreed its flair and varietal character had disappeared.

Grangehust’s CWG Cabernet Sauvignon was monumentally backward and almost too austere. The cassis and mineral traits coupled with concentration contrasted with the firm acidity and roaring tannins. There is no doubt this wine will amaze-all at a two decade retrospective.

Rustenburg Peter Barlow, along with the Thelema, didn’t shine from its majestic provenance; very ripe (even with a moderate 12.5% alcohol), certainly rich, but somewhat unrefined and chunky. Also somewhat un-cabernet like, its balance was questioned.

Neil Ellis Reserve rounded off the final flight in much the same way as it had the first. Good varietal character and concentration, though the masses of new oak and a little greenness again worried some. Its austerity and structure should provide a platform for the future, but will the oak integrate?

Incidentally, our palates were eased over the flight’s discussions with a wonderfully vibrant and rich, toffee caramel lime Lievland Noble Late Harvest, again 1997.

Some conclusions…

Merlot is not necessary for blending with cabernet sauvignon to produce classic soft wines – especially South African merlot. Often the integrity of the cabernet is weakened and the grassy methoxypyrazine protrudes. When blended positively, however, a savoury richness and delicacy can be achieved.

Those that used a deft hand with new oak casks reaped the rewards of more balanced and pure-fruited wines. Green flavours (my number 1 nemesis) due to rot and phenologically unripe grapes were and still are problematic.

With correct storage, top-flight SA wines will comfortably hold at least ten years.

Wines from 1997 that will be singing away through the 2010 World Cup and beyond: De Trafford, Grangehurst, Beyerskloof, Morgenhof, Neil Ellis Reserve.

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