A promising newcomer – with a long history 3 April 2007

Oak Valley Wines in Elgin is a good-news tale, says Angela Lloyd

'Can do.' It's a good phrase: positive, succinct. It is, one hopes, embraced by those who venture into the wine business. Yet, judging by the recent splash of headlines announcing wine farms up for sale – in primeland Stellenbosch too! – this can-do attitude apparently isn't always matched by the nitty-gritty of knowing how to succeed.

Leaving aside that such headlines are, in the main, nothing more than tabloid sensationalism – wine farms, for one reason or another, are always on the market, even in Stellenbosch – it is not difficult to surmise that the financial distress they find themselves in can be attributed in part to two important shortcomings: wine quality and marketing.

Competent but mediocre wine playing to the commercial end of the spectrum is now a non-starter - the world is awash with the stuff. Yet how well understood is the concept of quality? Possibly better from a viticultural point of view than assessment of wine itself. Knowing and understanding the competition via broad tasting experience betters the chances of success.

But it's worthless making even the best wine in the world if people don't know about it. The concept of marketing is, if anything, less well grasped than quality but is just as important. Because wine quality is a subjective assessment without absolutes, marketing has to create a brand image that consumers and even journalists can relate to. Anyone who has contributed to Grape's polls will acknowledge that perception plays an influential role when it comes to nominating a top twenty list of producers.

The good news is that it's an increasingly difficult decision; even a top fifty would mean leaving out some deserving properties. And I'm certainly of the opinion that the failures haven't done their homework properly, rather than it just being luck on the side of Vergelegen, Boekenhoutskloof, Cape Point et al. 

Neither should newcomers be discouraged. One such property winging its way upward is Oak Valley, a 1700-hectare farm in Elgin. Anthony Rawbone-Viljoen is its fourth-generation guardian. His great-grandfather, Sir Antonie Viljoen, pioneered grape growing and winemaking in the area at the beginning of the 20^th century. International demand saw deciduous fruit replacing vines during the Second World War but it was always Rawbone-Viljoen's dream to take up where his ancestor had left off.

His no-compromise desire for quality, whether it's the vast cut flower business, beef cattle, deciduous fruits, not to mention many future ideas, starts with thorough research and expert advice.

After extensive soil analysis, a tiny pilot vineyard consisting of eight varieties was planted in 1985. The grapes, initially sold to Peter Finlayson, immediately made their mark under the Bouchard Finlayson label with acknowledgement to their Oak Valley source, drawing positive comments and high ratings in the Platter wine guide. The results encouraged Rawbone-Viljoen to extend his vineyards. Consultation with Eben Archer and Dawid Saayman led to today's 40 hectares of vines with a further 10 hectares planned.

Pieter Visser, viticulturist on the farm since 1993, has slipped with ease into the winemaker's seat, doubtless helped by his extensive knowledge of the vineyards.

The wines attest to this meticulous preparation. The first Oak Valley wine, a 2003 Sauvignon Blanc, was released in 2004. At a recent vertical tasting of the sauvignons from 2003 to 2006, this maiden vintage showed as fresh as a daisy: pure, concentrated and rich, attributes which featured in all four years. The single vineyard Mountain Reserve 2005 has a cool, linear intensity that distinguishes it from the others. Newcomers Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, both from 2005, prove class is inherent in these cool, high-lying vineyards; the Pinot, especially should have established producers looking anxiously over their shoulders. What a charmer with its pure fragrance, silky depths and focused freshness - all this from a four-year old vineyard. (It goes extraordinarily well with chocolate too, I discovered!) The 2006s, due for release later this year, are just as promising.

The story of Oak Valley and Sir Antonie Viljoen is a fascinating and well-recorded one, recounted entertainingly by Anthony Rawbone-Viljoen (and told too on the winery's website). Both he and Visser are quiet, down-to-earth people, more comfortable on a one-to-one or small group basis. A recent visit with a handful of colleagues proved both memorable and informative, also creating the right impression of what Oak Valley stands for.

The positive image of Oak Valley is off to a good start, as are the wines, simply because they know what they're doing and are doing it right.

• Link to Oak Valley Wines website