In search of wines past: Part 6 28 May 2007

Angela Lloyd resumes her tastings of local 1997s with a look at some cabernets and
cab-based blends

Is King Cab's crown slipping? Call me a heretic if you will, but the thought crossed my mind after I'd faced three days judging red wines on the recent Trophy Wine Show, most featuring this most majestic and long-lived of red grapes.

It made appearances not only in varietal cabernets (naturally!) and Bordeaux style blends, but also ‘other' red blends and shiraz blends. In total, 264 of the 307 wines I tasted include cabernet sauvignon; in many the dominant partner. Partnerships in which it is asked to play many different roles.

Is this asking too much? It's a question that is being side-stepped as all eyes (noses and taste buds) focus on shiraz, with vitriol or praise, depending on your point of view.

Cabernet sauvignon now accounts for 13 336 hectares of South Africa's 102 146 ha, second only to chenin blanc, and scattered across all the Wine of Origin areas. The main question that needs to be asked here is not ‘is too much planted where it shouldn't be?', but ‘how much of that is affected by leafroll virus?' Cabernet's late-ripening disposition means the approach of cooler weather at the end of summer often hinders the grapes from reaching full ripeness, especially in those virused vines. I'm surprised that with all the talk of the wine industry being in crisis, no one has mentioned the word in association with the ongoing shortcomings in vine material sold locally. It is here that any crisis starts; if the grapes won't ripen properly, the wine won't be as good as it could or should be, so the problem cascades down the line to the consumer. It's high time the Vine Improvement Board and the nurseries are called to account, not just for cabernet but for every variety grown in this country.

French thinking

Cabernet's best-known role is in Bordeaux, mainly those wines from the well-drained soils of the Médoc, the strip of land running down the west side of the Gironde river, or Left Bank, as it's known.

Many years ago, I enjoyed an afternoon chatting to Paul Pontallier, the thoughtful, charming technical director of the famous Château Margaux. He explained with great clarity the role of the different varieties and the philosophy behind blending them in Bordeaux. Whereas we in South Africa tend to look on cabernet sauvignon and merlot, or any other of the Bordeaux grapes, simply as individual varieties producing wines with pretty stereotypical characteristics, for Pontallier the issue is far more nuanced: wine is not just the result of a variety, but also of very specific terroir conditions.

Then, Pontallier views blending as a philosophy rather than a recipe but always with the best wine as a goal. Practically, merlot softens the cabernet and petit verdot enhances the aromatics and tannin structure; also, the varietal spread allows for compensation from others when harvest conditions negatively affect one variety. With their more variable climate, the Bordelais sensibly bear in mind the dictum of not putting all one's eggs in one basket.

But what Pontallier stresses more than anything else is that South African winemakers should learn what works best for them: they have the freedom to blend whichever varieties they like; so long as the wine has integrity and gives the best possible result, go for it.

At present such encouragement is best realised in our Bordeaux-style blends, though those on the Helderberg who are introducing shiraz into that mix are producing some consistent and interesting wines.

In the sample of 94 Bordeaux-style blends entered on the Trophy Wine Show, the diversity and integrity of style was clear, the quality generally very good. The cabernet category itself was a less happy affair, partly vintage driven - the hot, dry 2005 appears to have been particularly difficult for many; raisins, alcohol and sweetness were recurring cries of anguish from the judges. There was the virus question but, given the quality of the Bordeaux-style blends versus varietal cabernet, it appears the best cabernet is reserved for the blends, an hypothesis often discussed and put to the test.

Wines of a decade back

All this was on my mind as I lifted down from the cellar shelves Thelema, Neil Ellis and Uitkyk 1997 Cabernets and Kanonkop Paul Sauer 1997. The vintage had its challenges, especially when it came to cabernet, even more so with those virused vines. The drawn-out, cool summer, more reminiscent of Europe than Africa, left many winemakers perplexed (European winemakers experienced corresponding feelings during the ‘African' summer of 2003). A cool head and patience were required – and not always available.

I had been seduced by and bought the Uitkyk at an ‘en primeur' barrel tasting; I should not have been seduced - by any ex-barrel sample locally. Rather than ‘ready' as described in the latest Bergkelder Vinotèque review, it is over-ready, with the fruit flown.

Both Thelema and Neil Ellis are wines of ethereal charm, the flavours mature yet still pure, with the vintage ‘freshness' mopped up by the rare, unadorned sirloin steak they partnered. I see from the 2000 Platter Guide that Gyles Webb fleshed out his 1997 Cabernet with 10% merlot, which possibly accounted for a little extra weight, but the vintage triumphs over the accomplished Ellis and Webb; neither wine happily withstood being opened for more than a day.

The Kanonkop Paul Sauer was a different proposition, the most youthful in appearance, the richest, most concentrated in texture, with fine, relaxed tannins and savoury length. It was quite a surprise to discover the blend is 80% cabernet with equal splashes cabernet franc and merlot, not too far in composition from Webb's wine, but very distinct. I guess older vines boost the Kanonkop; even so, two days later it was going the way of the cabernets. The back label graph indicates it should sustain the peak reached over the next year until 2012. My advice: drink and enjoy any remaining bottles soon if you accept the dictum that it’s better to enjoy wines on the way up than on the way down.

***

So, in my tastings of the wines of 1997 thus, the whites continue to have impressed more than the reds. But we're not finished with Bordeaux blends yet: there's still the local ‘Right Bank' (Pomerol and St. Emilion in Bordeaux) to consider. Can merlot and merlot/cabernet franc blends out-perform King Cab? Watch this space.