What to eat with that viognier…? 2 August 2007

Melvyn Minnaar looks a finely-tuned guide to wine and food matching

Perfect Pairings: A Master Sommelier's Practical Advice for Partnering Wine with Food
By Evan Goldstein. Recipes by Joyce Goldstein
University of California Press 2006 (R285)

Matching wine and food is fast becoming one of the favourite hobbies of the wine-appreciating upwardly mobile. As practical reality in restaurants proves all too frequently on that night out, however, it is far more challenging than the small talk around that table.

Not that Evan Goldstein, who has written this book – one of the finest available on the popular but sometimes perplexing subject – plays anything like the wine/foodie snob game. It’s fine to drink whatever you want with whatever you wish. But if you are going to play the game, he gives some level-headed advice and commonsense information, all in a well-written, straightforward manner.

Goldstein is a master sommelier, and son of the well-known American chef Joyce Goldstein (who provides recipes in this book), and he clearly knows his business. He also knows South African wines.

Ever wondered what to serve with Fairview’s aromatic Viognier? How about Brazilian fish and shellfish stew - Mrs Goldstein’s invention that combines classic moqueca de peixe and mariscada in a lush fish dish flavoured with garlic, coriander, saffron and cayenne pepper. Goldstein writes how well the oak in the viognier adds richness to the food. Of course, other than Charles Back’s version you could, he suggests, serve Guigal’s or Yves Cuilleron’s northern Rhône viognier with it.

With Marc Kent’s well-known Boekenhoutskloof Syrah, the author suggests a Moroccan lamb barbecue. Kanonkop Cabernet Sauvignon is paired with mother’s version of steak au poivre (a kind of American steak Diane). All the pairings were tested in a real kitchen.

Twelve grape varieties are carefully considered, as well as sparkling wine (how about a caviar and cream cheese roll with champagne?) and dessert wines (they must always be sweeter than the pudding they accompany). Most importantly, Goldstein analyses each variety and variation in terms of flavours, etc. (By the way, he is firmly convinced that the nose is the most important sense in wine appreciation.) He considers pairings both theoretically and practically, which gives the book a real hands-on value.

Perfect Pairings is a fine and very helpful book. International in its wine reach, it has a handy practicality for South Africa. If you’re into the food-matching-wine hobby, and believe that a dish perfectly partnered with wine is sheer gourmand bliss, this nicely published offering is for you.