Pinot progress 13 August 2006

Notes from Angela Lloyd on pinot noir from Elgin – notably the Paul Cluver

It is said great wine is a journey rather than a destination; for pinot noir, such journey is particularly long and arduous. Even for the Burgundians, with their centuries of experience, the journey presents them with difficulties; perhaps even more so today, as winemakers around the globe chase the holy grail of a perfect pinot.

If those who struggle in Burgundy's Cote d'Or are less visible, it's probably because there are so many producers in the region and they're all dealing with the one red grape.

The experiences of South African pinotphiles are much more exposed: we have fewer producers, they are scattered across the Cape winelands and, since the dropping of quotas, are still seeking out where this sensitive variety will best put down roots. The good news is that many new, cooler sites are showing promise, even though vineyards are still young.

But it's not just a simple question of site, clones or even viticulture: winemakers are faced with the challenge of how best to treat pinot in the cellar and it is a challenge for those without previous experience with the grape. Anyone who's tried a poor pinot will probably agree that, unlike a so-so cabernet, it's a non-starter.

From such preamble, it's obvious that any South African producer prepared to lay out for media and trade inspection a vertical of pinots since the maiden vintage is nothing if not brave. Paul Cluver Jr, his marketing sister, Liesl Rust and winemaker/brother-in-law, Andries Burger have sufficient respect among the wine community to do this without being considered foolhardy.

As one of the pinot pioneers in the Elgin area, mistakes have been made and learned from; in the process, they have benefited others.  An early vineyard planted on north-west facing slopes has since been replaced with a higher, cooler site; here, Burger is delighted to see the grapes ripen a full month later at the end of March.

Clones include the old BK5 (sold off to bubbly producers, the clone's original purpose) and 113, the mainstay of the vintages from 1997 to 2004. From 2006, due for release later this year, other Dijon clones 667, 115 and 777 are included, though make up a tiny 4%. Nevertheless, at the tasting, it was this vintage that drew enthusiasm from the majority for its pure fragrance, freshness and delicacy. Oaking too was happily balanced not to shroud the wine's attractive fruit.

Getting the oak regime right is as important as the wine itself. In 1997, the first vintage tasted, maturation was in 100% new Francois Frères barrels; in this light year, it was pleasant to find the wine still had good freshness and fruit that, in part, was lifted by sweet oak.

Much has changed since. From 2003, Gillet and Mercurey are the preferred coopers and the 06 has seen only 20% new oak.

Other vintages that showed well for me were 2001 and 2004; 1998, 2000 and 2002 suggested the fine line over which pinot metamorphoses into something else and were probably better a few years ago.

The trade-off from summer clouds which keeps things cool in these highland vineyards is the likelihood of rain and subsequent botrytis (great for their Riesling dessert wine, of course!) but which wrote off pinot in both 1999 and 2005.

Today, other Elgin producers are coming on board with pinot, notably the Cluver's neighbour, Oak Valley. Sensibly, they see the benefits of co-operation which can only benefit and hasten the progress of this beguiling but finicky variety in an area where it promises so much.  

• Link to the Paul Cluver Estate website