
Greenpepper Gideon
23 September
2005
We got mail, as they say in some circles. Someone applying
for a job as my roving scout sent the following excited report, as a
follow-up to the news that Gideon Theron, one of the published and vaguely
punished villains of the additives-in-sauvignon saga, had made the bubbly
that somehow came top in a recent competition.
I thought (says my scout) that you might be interested to
know that I recently saw Gideon ‘Greenpepper’ Theron at a function given by
Cyber Cellar at the Pearl Valley Golfing estate in Paarl, a place I can
report as surpassed in vulgarity only by the suburb of Dainfern in
Johannesburg.
I can tell you that Mr T is looking very well, and
generously nourished to boot. He was exhibiting no sign of contrition or
shame and in fact joined several other jolly winemakers and owners in a
round of golf. I can’t say how well Gideon did in the game, as I am not a
participant in this ‘good walk, wasted’ activity. But I’m pretty sure that
his fellow-players kept a close look at his tactics – after all, if you can
use, er, unconventional methods to improve your wine, you can be expected,
surely, to try out some equivalent tricks in something as frivolous as golf,
especially if a little wager is involved.
If it was me (my anonymous scout adds self-righteously,
inadvertently hinting at his/her own day-job), I would spend the rest of my
career in some backwater making de-flavoured wine base for Hunters Gold – my
first job offer in the industry, some years back – not prancing around at
marketing events at vulgarly luxurious security-fenced golf courses.
Opportunism again
There was also a little feedback to
my shocking story about dear Christian Eedes
dabbling in plagiarism – sorry, ‘opportunism’. The first mysterious letter
ran thus:‘Dear Widow, I’d be prepared to forgive Christian and Wine mag,
if they promise to do another photo shoot of Eedes junior. Who knows, they
may even manage to get him to look as unassertive and modest as he really
is!’
Another informant (why are they all anonymous, these
people? Are they ashamed to be seen associated with me even in print?),
suggested that Christian might not have realised that he was plagiarising
the Platter Guide; he might have thought he was just recycling his own
phrases. Because, in fact, he’d already used the ‘borrowed’ sentence before
– in a September 2004 South Africa supplement to the British trade magazine
Harpers, where he was listing his Top Ten SA wines. He characterised
Crescendo in the same words as used first in Platter and most recently in
his Gulp! column: ‘Never obvious, few Cape wines demand patience like
this classically oriented wine.’
There’s a reward (a bottle of Crescendo, of course) for
anyone who can find some other place in Christian’s oeuvre where the
sentence crops up.
Puffery gone wrong
Some winery PR people rather unfortunately do their own
writing. Very reasonably proud of their Platter double five-star
achievement, Steenberg trumpeted the fact, with splendid insouciance as to
accuracy – as well as grammar and typographical consistency – in their
newsletter. Thus: ‘Newest
accolade is that in the next Platters Guide, 2005/6 the 156 wine masters
that judge the thousands of wines made in South Africa, selected 72 superior
wines which they thought worthy of 5 star status. These had to be further
refined to 10 – that is the usual number of 5* wines acknowledged in
Platter’s Guide each year.’ (Note that this quality of public relations
output is coming from one of the most expensive hotels and wineries in the
Cape!)
As someone close to the Guide commented
curtly: ‘The only true word in the description is “in”.’ Another person’s
horrified remark was: ‘156 wine masters? – God forbid!’
Big secret
You might have heard of Kumala – the big
brand, big bland range of massively marketed SA wines that is doing so well
for their Canadian multinational owners in Britain particularly. I was
intrigued to see how ambitious they actually are for their product.
According to its website, ‘the Kumala wine brand is
one of South Africa’s best-kept secrets’. It sells, you see, a mere ‘2.5
million 9 litre cases in 2004 in the UK alone’. Imagine how many bottles
Western Wines will manage to flog once it manages to get this well-kept
secret out!