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The Widow's sour grapes

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Thick as thieves 11 April 2007

Tales of Jürgen and Johnny, and Marvin and Johann

 

It is seldom that I get emails from rich and famous people ticking me off (Michael Fridjhon’s about as high as I can normally aspire to). So forgive me if I boast about recently hearing from Jürgen Harksen – yes the notorious criminal and former Cape wine estate owner himself, now languishing, as far as I know, in a German prison. Clearly with internet access, however: no doubt spurred on by news that his ex-barrister in Cape Town, Johan van den Bergh, had had it confirmed that he is to be struck from the rolls, he must had done a spot of googling and found an earlier comment of mine. So what does the pious crook have to say? Essentially: ‘I think that you have been too hard and unfair in your judgement. Everybody can make mistakes just as I have.’

‘Mistakes’ is one way of describing multiple fraud. (I too have, indeed, made mistakes – as I would admit to my dear husband in accusatory moments.) But nice to come across such loyalty amongst, er, friends.

 

Golf, friends and suchlike luxury goods

Is it fawning of me to be proud of my correspondence from a person of such renown? It was the Australians who invented the term ‘cultural cringe’, and it’s clearly a factor we have taken over from them, together with a taste for sweet, alcoholic and woody wines. I enviously suspect, though, that in Oz they’ve got over the stage of reacting like a tickled puppy dog whenever some lordly foreign winewriter (especially an American) condescends to throw a little bone of appreciation. We haven’t.

There have recently been some rumblings from the US magazine Wine Spectator – or Wine Speculator as it’s known to people more cynical than I am about its combination of prices, scores and life-style tips for rich trophy-hunting Americans. Senior writer James Molesworth descended on the Cape to pick his way around a few chosen properties. How did he decide which ones to go to? I’m not quite sure, but a few disgruntled, unvisited producers are also wondering.

Some think they found a clue in the fact that the owner-publisher of Wine Spectator  has also recently been forging some South African connections. Marvin Shanken’s his name, and golf is his game – along with expensive wine, expensive cigars and expensive celebrities. He combined all those interests recently when it was kindly arranged for him to have a nice little South African round of golf: with Gary Player, Ernie Els – and Johann Rupert. He wrote a modest piece about it, which, if you can stomach such things, you can find if you click here.

Despite his own great interest in wine, Marv describes Johann in relation to luxury goods manufacturer Richemont, but strangely doesn’t mention that Johann also owns L‘Ormarins, the Franschhoek estate into which he’s been pouring uncountable millions, and which is shortly to launch its range of new and (let’s hope) improved wines. (Incidentally, I do wonder why Johann has got that superfluous extra n on his name – is it just another bit of showy and unnecessary luxury goods, I wonder?)

Let me state for the record that I’m quite, quite, quite sure that Wine Spectator content is not influenced by such things as the  gratification of its owner. It’s true there is occasional nasty malicious gossip about the magazine which suggests something less than high-minded independence as an occasional motive – a lot of hoohah was raised a few years back when an important American journalist wrote an article suggesting, amongst other things, that ‘It's never been proved that advertisers influence scores, but suspicions run deep’. But who could possibly believe that of a wine magazine publisher?

And who could believe in anything other than the noblest of motives from a big businessman? Our Johann would never, I’m sure, try to curry favour with the editor or staff of the world’s most commercially important (though far from the best) wine magazine. I’m sure he just likes playing golf with nice people like Marvin. Anyway, his ambitions would focus on raising the image of Cape wine as a whole, of course, rather than personal aggrandisement.

Johann and Marv do have inerests in common, after all – including inhaling smoke, and/or getting others to do so too. A lot of the Rupert billions came from the pleasant business of selling cigarettes, and Marv is a great cigar smoker, and also has a cigar magazine. The great publisher tells us in his story about their meeting that he and Johann became ‘pretty good drinking and smoking buddies. In fact, Johann was kind enough after dinner Friday night to bring out a humidor filled with pre-Castro Cubans—that was a very generous gesture. I smoked three!’

In these cynical times, how charming to find someone who knows how to make a simple, generous gesture, and how nice to find someone who can respond with such alacrity! (My husband might have called it greed, but then he’d have been on Castro’s side in any smoky confrontation with either Johann or Marvin)

And so the Spectator writer came for his visit. I’m pleased to report that, such was Mr Molesworth’s independent assessment of relative wine quality in South Africa, that one of the 14 blogs he filed from here was apparently devoted to L’Ormarins. Another went to Jean Engelbrecht, Ernie Els’s wine partner. I say ‘apparently’, as you have to pay to get beyond the first sentence or so. Actually the entry I most wanted to have a further look at was the one that dealt with his visit to what he calls the ‘Poor-Vaardeberg region of Cape Town’. Do you think he got lost in the suburbs and stumbled across something new and exciting that we should know about?

 

COMMENT

From Tiny:
For my sins, I'm a subscriber to the Speculator, so I can tell you that it's 'Poor-Vaardeberg' throughout the blogs. (There were no other signs that he thought it was a region in Cape Town, however.) I'm sure it can't just be sloppy journalism – perhaps Jim's just dyslexic or something, but I didn't notice him referring to Bellenstosch. You might also be interested to know that he described Anthony Hamilton-Russell as 'tall and handsome', but then beauty is in the eye of the beholder, isn't it?
 

 

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