Timely serendipity saw to it that I read Andrew Jefford's insightful article on Australia just prior to a memorable meeting with Shannon wines, accompanied by the equally memorable dishes from Gordon Manuel, chef at South Hill Vineyards' The Venue restaurant.

Jefford's lengthy thoughts covered many areas of Australian wine, with the title, `Falling in Love Again`, giving an idea of the path they followed. Many of his remarks could have as well applied to South Africa, but there were some, about the wines themselves, that struck me as particularly pertinent as I enjoyed the diversity of the Shannon range.

There were recurring criticisms from the international journalists and retailers Jefford canvassed for opinion, mainly directed at red wines being `jammy, hot, lacking elegance and finesse and being "easy to tire of" ..'  Such wines are not enjoyable to drink let alone with food.

If they are easily tired of through their power, they are tiring also because of their homogeneity. The single factor Jefford sites as reinforcing a sense of sameness is acid adjustment. `Any forcefully acidified wine will never be a wine of place,` he emphasises. He also suggests such acid may intensify the burning effect of high alcohol rather than elevated levels being problematic in themselves. `What matters,` he confirms, `is the wine's internal harmony and equilibrium.`

Of oak, he wishes the annual budget would be cut by 70% with the savings spent `on careful viticulture, gentler handling techniques and longer, softer macerations, …`

This less-interventionist approach would be far more likely to produce what Jefford calls `satisfying, digestible food-friendly red wines` with both texture and mid-palate. Wines too that are far more likely to show some sense of place.

How often haven't such criticisms been levelled at our red wines (like the Aussies, our whites seem to attract less censure)?

James Downes, co-owner with brother Stuart of Shannon Vineyards (though parents, Carol and Keith hardly seem to be on the sidelines!), was at pains to ensure we understood where priorities lie: table decorations included small rocks of different composition, illustrating the varied soil types. The vineyards receive absolute focus of attention, to the extent that the brothers weren't happy to have any wine under the Shannon label until they had a good understanding of the vineyards and the fruit they deliver. (Rather than the office, James D revealed their hq is the tractor yard!)

They knew the quality was there, as winemakers such as Cathy Marshall and the Newton-Johnsons produced well-reputed wine from their fruit.

When eventually James and Stuart felt the time was right and knowledge of their vineyards sufficient to produce the style of wine they wanted, it was to their friends, Gordon and Nadia Newton-Johnson they turned to make the wine. This is a brilliant, empathetic relationship. They admire the same qualities in wines including the quality of food-friendliness.

`Texture and structure`, is how James Downes defines what they look for in their wines; both are in evidence throughout, as are gentleness and purity. The sauvignon is `textured' by a portion of oaked semillon, but is harmoniously assimilated, giving the feeling of a perfect, polished whole. Pinot noir is as pinot should be, fragrant, fresh and silky, while the merlot - which has fooled many even competent tasters as to its varietal origins - will convert any Sideways fan with its multi-layered concentration and contrasting lightness of feel.

Keen eyes will note that this wine is labelled Mount Bullet, with no mention of variety, the wish being to avoid pre-conceived ideas of which there are many and negative surrounding merlot. The name is actually the English translation of Koegelberg, the mountain visible from the vineyards and depicted on the label. (Mount Bullet, it was decided, has a much better ring than Bullet Mountain.)

No acid at all is added and, thanks to the gravity-fed Newton-Johnson cellar, the grapes and wine receive the gentlest treatment throughout. This encourages wines that command attention with their concentration and persistence but never to the extent of dominating food or conversation.

But what sets them apart from so many others is that these wines are alive, they stimulate the taste buds and the intellect; the antithesis of the wines Jefford was describing, whether from Australia or anywhere else in the wine world.

Ah, but you're asking what's all this to do with Macushla. Macushla is the Irish for my darling (or more colloquially, `mi darlin`), chosen, as is Shannon, to reflect the Downes' Irish roots. It refers to the latest, and most unusual, Shannon wine; an entirely delicious botrytised pinot noir dessert wine of delicate pink hue, beguiling fragrance and temptingly moreish fruity acids - it re-defines the style. I'm not going to reveal the analysis but I urge you to buy a bottle when it's released - if there's any left from the two miserly barrels from which our samples were drawn, it's that addictive - I'm willing to bet you'll be as mesmerised as we were.

Like the wine itself, there won't be anything too ordinary about the packaging; but then there's nothing ordinary about Shannon Vineyards.