There are few things about South African wine more frustrating than to see the annual multitude of new producers deliver nothing more than mediocrity. If that sounds a sour note for the beginning of a new year, I'll hasten to add that of course, every batch of newcomers also reveals stars - people who immediately and continue to add to South Africa's prestige as a wine producing nation (and justify the growing of vines).

Picking, at random, the 2003 edition of Platter, wineries with maiden releases reviewed include Bon Cap, Ernie Els, Fryer's Cove, The Foundry and the 2010 winery of the year, Sadie Family Wines. Each has built on that initial showing through consistency and distinction, even though people such as Wynand Hamman and his in-laws at Fryer's Cove are pioneers of their beachside vineyards, where success has come via trial and error (little of the latter, it has to be said!). The du Preez family at Bon Cap have done much for the image of organic production.

Coming up to date, I'd wager the following producers with wines reviewed for the first time in 2010 guide are tomorrow's stars: Badenhorst Family Wines (also Adi's Secateurs label) , DeanDavid Wines, Felicité, Shannon Vineyards, The Three Foxes (Chris Mullineux & partners), Trizanne Wines (no wines reviewed in Platter, but see my previous blog).

Then there are a bunch where I'm unfamiliar with the wines, but about which I've heard excellent reports: Bizoe, Constantia Mist, Pella (an own label of Daniël de Waal of Uiterwyk), Rall (a Platter 5* but not a wine I've tasted in isolation), Rijk's Estate and Sijnn (David Trafford and partners new venture at the Breede River estuary); there are others highly rated by the Platter panel (a group of three who taste new entries and reach a consensus rating); let's hope they will all prove producers to keep an eye on.

But when one considers that these handfuls account for no more than one eighth (at best) of the newcomers, who usual total between 40 and 50, that leaves a lot of mediocrity. I'm not implying the wines are poor (though some are), but there is little or nothing to set them apart from the mass of South Africa's six thousand odd wines, nor from many others in the wine world.

It's worth repeating what Andrew Jefford wrote in a recent piece on Australia and which I referred to in my article on Shannon; `If they [jammy, hot, Australian reds] are easily tired of through their power, they are tiring also because of their homogeneity.' I'd suggest the same applies to over-baked whites.

Frankly, it beats me how anyone contemplating entering the market does so with anything other top quality and a story. It also beats me how they remain in business!

Not everyone who produces interesting, good wines have the sort of profile of an Eben Sadie or Ernie Els; some keep their light rather more hidden under a bush; Christine and Mark Stevens, for instance, who are wedded to organic viticulture on their Slanghoek property, Mountain Oaks (no website, but Christine@mountainoaks.co.za will put you in contact).

As the Platter taster responsible, for the first time, for their entry last year, I was bowled over by their wines. They shed new light on an area with a less than stellar reputation. The Stevens's approach in the cellar reflects that in their vineyards; little intervention. For this they (and we!) are rewarded with wines of naturalness, restraint yet with appealing individuality. In contrast to the usual rush to release white wines of the vintage, their Eikenbosch White 2006, a blend of old vine chenin with oak-enriched chardonnay, was released only last year, when the Stevens considered it was ready. Not only is it satisfyingly delicious, it is more than satisfyingly priced at R55.

What led to these reflections was trying to come up with a list of 200 wineries worthy of representing the best of South Africa. While a top 50 list could be easily filled, 200 is a different matter; even a figure of 150 isn't as straightforward as it should be. That 200 is a mere third of South Africa's total wineries tells its own story.

And so to the wishes; first, to wish everyone an excellent harvest, then that all this year's newcomers aim high. Finally, may all winelovers show a sense of adventure and seek out the lesser known stars, such as Mountain Oaks.