If the relevance of the Huguenots’ arrival in 1688 on the fledgling South African wine industry is disputed, there should be less argument about benefits accruing to modern vintages from the French, who today find the Cape a liberating place to make wine.

Liberating in that they aren’t obliged to stick to the rigorous rules that decree what they may plant where on home soil, though most appear to prefer to stay with styles they best understand.

As Tim James alludes to in his article ‘Bordeaux vs Burgundy (Stellenbosch vs Swartland?)’ Stellenbosch is noted for high quality and highly priced, cabernet-based blends. Partly for that reason, some of the biggest names in Bordeaux who have chosen to become involved or own properties here, are settled in Stellenbosch. Whilst I’d agree with Tim that the Swartland has the ‘soul’ one finds in Burgundy, I’d suggest the former’s ruggedness leans a little more to the Rhône – and so await to hear of the first French import from somewhere along that rugged river to settle there! But I digress.

Back to Stellenbosch, where I’m sure Tim will be pleased to learn of a new winery (rather than producer) notable for its unflashy and practical, simple design. It’s perhaps relevant that the Bordeaux partners in Anwilka (that’s a photo of inside its new cellar) are two of the regions biggest names, who are or were associated with top properties. Bruno Prats, previous owner of St Estèphe Second Growth, Cos d’Estournel and Hubert de Boüard, proprietor of St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, Chateau Angelus are co-owners with Klein Constantia’s Lowell Jooste. As befits the status of those Right and Left Bank wines, the focus at Anwilka is on the vines and the wines (the large glass windows of the tasting room take in dramatic views over the vineyards to both the Helderberg and False Bay) rather than extraneous and expensive trappings.

One might imagine that with such celebrated names behind Anwilka, the wines would be better known here. In fact it’s pretty well unknown, mainly because nearly all production to date has been sold through the Bordeaux system via negociants. Thanks to a rave review from Robert Parker, the maiden vintage quickly sold out. Subsequent releases also have been rapidly snapped up.

To date marketing the small volume of Anwilka available locally has been negligible; with several vintages bottled (or about to be bottled in the case of 2009), the partners decided it was a good time to combine a vertical tasting with an introduction to the completed cellar for media, trade and sommeliers. Thanks to angry Icelandic volcanoes, this happened two months later than originally planned; but it was worth the wait. Bruno Prats with Lowell Jooste and winemaker, Jean du Plessis, showed us eight most interesting wines.

Varieties focus on cabernet sauvignon with occasional appearances from merlot, fewer from petit verdot, though more is being planted, but with much more emphasis on the ‘liberating’ syrah; though Prats reminded us that ‘it’s a variety historically associated with Bordeaux’.

Blends are composed according to what produces the best wine, which does lead to some dizzying differences in taste profiles; syrah in the 2008 (48%) is the clear leader, whereas the 2006 reflects its cabernet-base. The best wine for our end of the table is the 2009, due to go into bottle at the end of the month; this 56/44 syrah/cabernet blend – ‘a fantastic combination and what we had in mind from the beginning,’ Prats smiles.

If taste profiles have see-sawed across vintages, so have structures. The maiden 2005 is in an easier, more seductive style while 2006 swings to the other extreme; structured and still closed but with good viscosity. The charming 2007, a 50/46/4 blend of syrah, cabernet and petit verdot, lies somewhere in between, leaving 2008 with its more obviously fruity profile a little out of place.

There was doubt among some present about how locals react to such differences (a doubt that’s also been expressed over the varying taste profiles of Morgenster) but maybe those who pay around R370 for a bottle of Anwilka will be unfazed and just appreciate the quality.

Quality there is, especially in the tannin management, its fine, ripe carpet providing wonderful freshness. Lowish acids and a solid dry finish counteract alcohol levels which hover around 14%, a feature the team would like to lower but are more concerned with achieving good ripeness. Ah, no mention of oak; no, simply because it’s properly used as a support to allow evolution and complement the wine.

Now the good news for those of us who can’t afford the price of an Anwilka; like any good Bordelais, the partners have introduced a second label, Ugaba. A well-chosen Xhosa name signifying wise men who settle conflicts. Like its senior sibling, Ugaba’s blend varies each vintage and of those we sampled, 2006, 2008 and 2009 (there was no 2007 left) it was the last that most impressed. But be impressed too by a retail price of around R65; for this sort of quality, Ugaba is a true bargain. The present 2000 to 3000 case production is promised to grow to 5000-plus and there’s even a third label on the cards.

So, much to thank our French friends for and learn from here at Anwilka and, as they agree, much they can learn from us via their involvement in South African wine.

Truly a case of entente cordiale!