It used to be a dream floating deep in the southern ocean, today its footprint is increasingly marching across the Cape winelands. Provocative pinot has arrived and is being conquered.

Look to Walker Bay (mainly the trio of Hemel en Aarde wards), Overberg (Elgin), Robertson and Stellenbosch for the majority that is transformed into ever more impressive table wines.

Plantings – 844 hectares according to SAWIS stats at the end of 2009 – might seem small in comparison with New Zealand, where 4773 ha out of a total vineyard area of 32 000 ha is given over to pinot, but the South African figure is nearly double that recorded in 2000. 

The majority, if not all of the Cape’s new vineyards are made up of new clones; ‘new’ in that in the old days, BK5, the Swiss clone, formed the basis of our plantings, whereas for the past decade at least, a selection of Dijon clones have been introduced.

These vineyards, now passed the first flush of youth, are providing fruit with a totally new profile – both in aroma and structure - from the organic tones of the BK5. The challenge to ascertain which clones produce the best results is now underway; the parallel task of matching fruit to oak –  type, cooper, toasting, size, age – is also a work in progress. 

Recently I spent a few fascinating hours with James Downes going round their vineyards in Elgin. James is a mine of information and meticulous in his attention to detail from vineyard to packing the shed where wines await labelling and despatching.

Not only do the Downes produce their own wines, pinot included, under the Shannon Vineyards label, they also sell fruit to other well known producers; around seven or eight take their pinot. The variety accounts for 6 hectares of the farm’s 15.5 ha under vine; each half hectare block is on a different soil type, bears a different clone and rootstock. Thus 12 variables in all, although one hectare is sold off to Ross Gower Wines for bubbly, leaving 5 ha for James to carefully monitor.

Since pinot was first planted here some 10 years ago, both James and his brother, Stuart (who works in Chile, but is a co-owner of Shannon and very much involved) have got to know what each clone brings to the final wine – a blend forging the best results.

The diagram shown here is re-produced from one James drew for me describing the various characteristics of the different pinot clones.

BK 5 (not on Shannon) remains solely on the green side; of the older Dijon clones, 113  features high acidity with some strawberry fruit, 115 – raspberries, youngberries, strawberries  - but it also gives backbone and tannin; both start on the greener side of the diagram but also include some riper notes, the latter more than the former. On the ripe side of the diagram sit newer Dijon clones 667 and 777, both of which provide darker fruit – black cherries, liquorice, while 667 provides a satiny mouthfeel. Soon two more, PN828 and 1024 will be introduced.

With this knowledge, it’s interesting to taste pinots made from Shannon fruit and try to fathom which clones are involved. The Waterford team have recently launched their maiden vintage. I find it fragrant, fresh, quite delicately textured but with some riper substance towards the finish. I guessed more of the 113/115 combination but also some of the riper clones. In fact it’s an equal mix of 115 and 777 with a very carefully judged 33% new French oak. The asking price of R140 is not unreasonable in pinot terms and it would make a satisfying accompaniment to a summer lunch.

Shannon’s own 2008 Rockview Pinot Noir is a more intricate mix of 113, 115 with a higher percentage of 667 and 777, resulting in a much more complex, structured wine. Oaking is well handled, 30% is new and lends complementary spice. Pricier at R280.56, but worth it for those willing to lay the wine down for a few years as it is sure to develop well and with interest.

As exciting as the new pinots can be, these are still very early days. I’m sure even established producers such as Anthony Hamilton Russell and Peter Finlayson would agree that these new clones throw a light on their own wines and how they approach them.

And for the producers now venturing into the pinot ranks – apart from those already mentioned, there’s Springfield and Quando in Robertson, it requires a completely different mindset to other red varieties.

So, I was very interested to read in the latest World of Fine Wine an article by consultant and pinotphile, Geoff Kelly, on the 2010 New Zealand Pinot Noir conference, held in Wellington early this year.

Although what he says pertains to New Zealand pinots, much applies as well to South African examples. Inter alia, he writes:

‘Too many of our Pinot Noirs … display overripeness .. Such wines are blackly plummy rather than cherry and blackboy peach in their fruit characters and, all too often, lack the freshness and florality, the vivacity and length on the palate, essential to great Pinot.’

‘Far too many wines show excessive oak. Pinot noir is about subtlety, and élevage must be designed to optimize both the floral component and the intriguing flavors of cherries and other fruits.’

‘Higher alcohol works against optimal Pinot Noir beauty and delicacy. Regrettably, many of our appropriately flavour-ripe Pinots are already 14% ABV, and every point above that detracts from the beauty of cool-climate wine styles.’

And let’s take to heart one of his main criticisms, that ‘Too many of our wine people – winemakers, wine writers and commentators alike – are simply not tasting enough great Pinot Noir. … This problem inhibits our development as a producer of great Pinot Noir, as opposed to being commercially successful with the variety.’

While I know the serious producers do taste widely across the pinot spectrum – and we are lucky enough to have some great Burgundies imported into the country – I suspect few of us hacks manage similar experience. Yes, it is an expensive exercise, but without people independent of winemakers able to make informed judgements, we too will find it difficult to develop as a producer of great pinot.