David Trafford is a man who relishes a challenge. Take reaching his eponymous winery on the saddle of the Helderberg.

One sails past Waterford and Kleinood, only for the road to turn to a rough and twisty single way track, requiring focus and fortitude on the way up and even more on the return trip! For some reason the route always reminds me of Tolkein’s The Hobbit, there’s an air of mystery and discovery. But as all guide books urge, ‘it’s worth the detour’; not least for the views, viz the attached photos taken from David and Rita Trafford’s home – one of the moon rising over the Helderberg, the other of twilight falling over Stellenbosch.)

As breathtaking as the views are, the reason for the climb up the hill, initially to the cellar, was for a very special tasting, one that was both thoroughly enjoyable and instructive.

Not de Trafford wines this time, but those from Sijnn, the newish project at Malgas, around 25 kms from the mouth of the Breede River, after which Sijnn is named. How is it pronounced? No one’s sure, as it is the name the indigenous peoples gavebut Seine, as the river that runs through Paris, is probably easiest to remember.

Owned jointly by Trafford, Bibendum’s Simon Farr (also at the tasting) and Quentin Hurt, the wines have already garnered positive reports from those who’ve tried them. The maiden harvest was cropped a bare five years ago on 9th February 2007; to date only two vintages of the red and white and three of the rosé have been released, a remarkably short time in which to generate enthusiasm. After Friday’s very comprehensive tasting, I have no doubt the fan club will grow.

The remoteness of these vineyards just 16 hectares, shouldn’t surprise; the poor, stony terrain, similar to Chateauneuf-du-pape, was eagerly eyed by Trafford on one of the visits to their family holiday home – away from it all. That means it’s also a way away - roughly a three hour journey - from Keermont cellar (just below de Trafford) where the wines are made by Trafford with his assistant Waldo van Zyl. Transporting the grapes in a rented cool truck ensures they arrive in good shape.

Chenin blanc, viognier, mourvèdre, shiraz, trincadeira, touriga nacional and cabernet sauvignon make up the somewhat united nations of vines planted. The trincadeira, aka tinta amarella, was actually a mistake, as it was supposed to be tempranillo (it was incorrectly identified), but its inclusion in the Sijnn blend certainly isn’t a negative. In keeping with the Rhône (as opposed to Portuguese) emphasis, Trafford had also wanted to plant grenache noir, but didn’t for lack of good material. (How often isn’t that sad excuse made?).

All are grown as bush vines and regularly tipped which helps to increase the berry size, create looser bunches and a nice, open bowl shape of the vine; all assist in keeping the local problem of rot at bay.

There’s nothing too fussy about the vinification or elévage; whether it’s white, rosé or red, each variety is barrel-fermented on its own yeasts with the (larger French) oak used as a container more than flavourant. Otherwise, the philosophy is a hands-off, gentle approach (the wine is moved by compressed air) and what lands up in the bottle, barring bad barrels, is, as Trafford describes it, ‘a field blend’ – there are no fancy blending options!

Less is more, are my thoughts about that. The white, a chenin-dominated blend with viognier, is as successful as it is proving in other areas, though I prefer the elegance, freshness and fragrance of the 2011 over the rather more structured and riper 2010, where the viognier makes its presence felt. There’s anyway less - 27% vs 47% - in the 2011.

Take away the ‘rosé’ name (something the team have discussed) and you have an ideal light, summer red in this, again barrel-fermented/aged mourvèdre, shiraz, trincadeira blend: vinous rather than fruity, dry, with a squeeze of tannin and good freshness. As it’s R120 price tag suggests, it is a serious wine, though I’m sure most winelovers will need some persuasion to try it at that price and the ‘rosé’ labelling!

Now comes my real rave – the Sijnn red. To date, it’s been South Africa’s white wines that have taken the lion’s share of the laurels, so to find a red wine that not only is individual but carries its thumbprint from its young vine maiden vintage across the following four vintages is nothing short of headline news.

Leading roles are taken by shiraz, mourvèdre and touriga nacional, with trincadeira and cabernet playing important bit roles. We tasted each  2011 component individually, then the blend, still in barrel and for many of us it was the best of the five, though I’d describe the others as different rather than lesser quality.

What sets the Sijnn red apart from so many others lies in its detail; there’s no smudging with oak, over-ripe fruit or sugar. The fragrance meanders between tomato, sour plum, fennel, spice, fresh earth; the natural liveliness ensures all these flavours are refrained on the palate with elegance and precision and conclude with a satisfying savouriness.

Although we had the privilege and pleasure of tasting through all five vintages to date, confirming that distinctive thread, only the 2007 and 2008 have been released, with the 2009 soon to be on the market. For anyone who delights in wines that show true difference and do so consistently, don’t pass over Sijnn red, which for R160 offers fantastic value.

Trafford regards getting winelovers interested in these different wines something of a challenge. It should be one that he’ll have little problem meeting.