If it's summer, it must be (mostly) seafood on the menu, especially if it's sauvignon blanc starring as the accompanying wine. This was our very pleasant observation at the gala dinner held at La Colombe to mark the end of the 'white' proceedings at the Aylesford Constantia Fresh Sauvignon Blanc Festival master-minded by Jörg Pfützner.

There was King Crab, scallops and oysters, crayfish and sweetbreads, and veal and Black Forest ham highlighted by and contrasted with leek and asparagus emulsions, watercress puree and sauvignon velouté, shitaki teriyaki, summer peas and morel café au lait. All of it was clever and delicious.

And while there were those at our table who spent one of the courses debating the merits of such precise but complicated cuisine over simpler, possibly more rustic, fare, conversation centred around the wines; 15 in all. Here are my impressions:

Flight 1:

2008 François Cotat Montes Damnes (Sancerre, France)

The nose of this wine was restrained and gently perfumed with touches of elderflower, the palate very steely and taut, the finish endless. This is not intended to be drunk by those who favour fruity aromas and flavours but rather crafted for those who seek out an expression of place or terroir in their tipple. A subtle yet elegant wine from one of the Loire masters of this variety.

2007 Michel Redde La Moynerie (Pouilly-Fumé, France)

More obviously sauvignon blanc, at least for those who seek out grassiness and herbaceous tones. A fruitful palate that nevertheless ended with an emphatic dryness, compared to the fruit sweetness of many New World wines. Delicious now but with a mineral core to carry it for several more years in the cellar.

2007 Constantia Glen (Constantia, South Africa)

Bright and fresh, with nettle and slight eucalyptus aromas, brisk acidity, mineral, taut. And without that tiring fruit-sweet finish of several other New World examples. Not as complex as the two French wines it accompanied, but with potential to develop in bottle. Perhaps try in two years' time.

Flight 2:

2005 Didier Dagueneau (Pouilly-Fumé, France)

The late Dagueneau apparently considered his 'standard' (can any Dagueneau wine be considered 'standard'?) wine as the purest expression of the appellation; that's ahead of his Pur Sang and Silex. This bottle was slightly evolved with on the nose, without the fresh attack I had expected. However, it was from a very hot year, and perhaps it was the heat that dimmed its usual brightness. The palate was quite linear and one dimensional; but it still exhibited the steeliness of wines from this eastern part of the Loire.

2006 François Cotat Cul de Beaujeu (Sancerre, France)

The Montes Damnes and Cul de Beaujeu vineyards are in Chavignol and, despite not having official appellation status, Cotat includes the name on his label, a fact which caused one importer in the UK to list the wines as indeed coming from Chavignol AOC! This wine hinted at the old barriques in which it was fermented and aged; there was a touch of vanilla but it was very subtle. More dominant were earthy tones, a creaminess, and breadth on the palate. This was rated as one of the wines of the evening by those at the table.

2008 Alphonse Mellot Generation XIX (Sancerre, France)

Wines have been made in Sancerre by a member of the Mellot family since 1513 and this one is named for the 19 generations of winemakers that have passed through the cellar. The grapes come from 90-year old vines, and are fermented in 900 litre vats, some new, and spend a year on the less before making their way into just 500 bottles. It was rich and dense on the nose, but zesty on the palate with a persistent mineral finish.

Flight 3:

1996 Steenberg (Constantia, South Africa)

A very commendable Golden Oldie: perfumed, refined but just starting to fade. Drink up.

1993 Michel Redde Majorum (Pouilly-Fumé, France)

Earlier during the day, this had been the most impressive of the four Redde wines we tasted, and it didn't disappoint with dinner. Whiffs of elderflower, just a hint of turpene (age?) and mushroom; lovely creamy palate. Not for keeping much longer.

1987 Klein Constantia Blanc de Blanc (Constantia, South Africa)

A polariser: there were two at the table who connived to drink all they could scrounge from others and the waitresses, there were two who thought it too tired. It had the same botrytis richness and minty humbug I remember from previous bottles drunk judiciously over several years. It slipped down so easily.

Flight 4:

2006 Alphonse Mellot En Grands Champs Rouge (Sancerre, France)

From pinot noir: pretty strawberry nose, lots of vanilla oak and cherries on the nose and palate. Lovely to drink but without layers of complexity.

2006 Roches Neuves Marginal (Saumur-Champigny, France)

This and the Chinon below from cabernet franc. A very meaty and savoury expression, rather than the herby or leafy notes some expect. Hints of leather on the palate and brisk acidity. Very satisfying.

2005 Couly Dutheil Close de l'Olive (Chinon, France)

Quite brawny, muscular and reflecting the ripeness of the vintage in its slightly raisined fruit nose and palate.

Flight 5:

2007 Groot Constantia Grand Constance (Constantia, South Africa)

Savoury, tea leaf nose with grapey highlights; but someone also found 'Zoo biscuits'. Youthful, timeless kind of appeal. From old-oak fermented and matured semi-dried muscat de Frontignan.

2006 Buitenverwachting 1769 (Constantia, South Africa)

Also from muscat de Frontignan, but with 30% new oak. Watermelon nuances on the nose, zesty acidity on the palate. Already showing some turpenes and slipperiness on the finish. Lovely, but perhaps for drinking within five years rather than 10.

1992 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance (Constantia, South Africa)

Iconic wine from unbotrytised muscat de Frontignan, tank fermented but aged for two years in 500 litre barrels.  A deep tea hue; barley sugar, coconut and toffee nose and palate, lively acidity. Everything it was meant to be.