Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
The mysterious discrepancy I noted in an addition to my last article between the analysis given for the Chenin Challenge winner in Wine mag and for the same wine on the Klein Zalze website is explained. They are not the same wine. There was no intention to deceive the competition organisers, but it's ... a pretty odd situation to say the least. If you bought the wine on its initial release you got an entirely different wine from the one that won the competition.
In fact there were three separate bottlings of Klein Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc, all of them different, as explained by Kleine Zalze co-owner Kobus Basson (see his letter posted as a comment to the article).
July 2008 bottling: This came from grapes "picked before the early rain of the 2008 harvest". The residual sugar was 2.8 grams per litre, and the alcohol 14.65. (As per the website information, and the information that all the online dealers are quoting.) It amounted to about 30% of the eventual total production, and 80% of it was exported.
September 2008 bottling: This and the third batch were from a post-rain harvest. Clearly the grapes were very much higher in sugar now. This bottling has "an alcohol near to 15 and RS near 6" says Mr Basson.
October 2008 bottling: Alcohol 15.18, residual sugar 7.2g/l. This bottling constituted 5022 bottles out of the total 35 372.
That is, the wine that won the Challenge is a mere 14% of the wine bearing the label "Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2008". Put the other way round, 86% of wines with that label are not the same as the winner. On the strength of that, are Kleine Zalze claiming that "Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2008" won the Chenin Challenge?
Consumers can decide if this, presumably entirely legal, procedure is ethically acceptable.
I notice that the picture of the bottle in Wine mag shows a number of award stickers on it - including that of the International Wine Challenge. I wonder if this and the other awards were won with the same bottling that the picture relates to? I wonder if the bottles currently on the shelves carry those award stickers, and if they are the same wine that the stickers were won for. If not, that is a significant misrepresentation of the true situation.
If it is the case that the packaging misrepresents the awards, I'd say that it is more than regrettable practice by one of our leading producers. I can't say, anyway, that I think very highly of the idea of three very different bottlings being sold under essentially the same label either. If Kleine Zalze had been open about this procedure in the interview they gave to Wine mag, it would be less of a problem. In the absence of such an open explanation (that the winning wine was a very small percentage of the wine under this label), many winelovers will have been deceived.
Those winelovers can decide precisely how this all relates to the scandal over Wither Hills in 2006, when there were identically labelled but separate bottlings of their 2006 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. One blend, it seems, went to the public, the other to critics and competitions (see the Wine Spectator story on this). I don't think that this is anything like that, but the Wither Hills scandal should have warned Kleine Zalze about the dangers of separate bottlings of a wine going into public competitions where they will be closely scrutinised.
- Tim James's blog
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Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
Kosie Moller! KWV. ok, thats out of the way, sawis clearly needs to look at things, I think, what is going on? 3 of the same wine, which already has limited numbers!!!!really, Wine, etc...
Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
Opportunity for the new editor of Wine mag to claw back credibility by publishing a full explanation of this situation. Preferably an honest explanation, with no blame spin.
With your comments included.
Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
Tim's exposé opens a can of worms with far-reaching implications, including wine marketing ethics, the statutory regulatory framework, duties, taxes and the declaration of alcohol units, to just name those I can think of at the moment.
There are a number of important questions to ask of Kleine Zalze that urgently need honest and transparent answering.
The first is whether Kleine Zalze is trying to manipulate consumer perceptions by being parsimonious with the truth, i.e. that the wines they enter for competitions, both locally and abroad, constitute a very small percentage of the production going under that label without any form of differentiation to indicate the fact that there was a "show and competition bottling". It is quite obvious that Kleine Zalze was keeping back "the best" to enter for competitions while selling "the bulk" both locally and internationally, something which is referred to in marketing parlance as bait-and-switch and a frowned upon strategy.
The second issue which should be more scary for Kleine Zalze is that through their crafty manipulation they have managed to effectively break the law while at the same time possibly implicating SAWIS, the wine certification body.
Ross Sleet states that the challenge winner has an alcohol of 15.18%, therefore the back label should state either 15% or 15.5% alcohol according to the law if the wine is to be exported to the EU or UK. The back label of the winning wine states that it is imported by Kleine Zalze c/o Wine Logistics, Antwerpen, Belgium and read together with all the international award stickers one would therefore deduce that this wine is exported and should abide by the .5% rule. However, the back label states the alcohol as 14.5%, so somewhere somebody slipped up (enter SAWIS who should check the label when application is done for final certification). So not only did Kleine Zalze neglect to update their website, but also to ensure that they abide by the rules of labelling and certification.
Expanding on the above, the back label gives an indication of alcohol units specifically for the UK market which is based on the declared alcohol of 14.5% and not the 15.18% as admitted by Ross Sleet. Furthermore, the UK charges differentiated duties based on ABV (alcoholic strength) of wine and the rate goes up for wine with an ABV of more than 15%. If this wine is therefore exported to the UK with a stated alcohol of 14.5% it would qualify for the lower rate of tax while what is in the bottle should actually be charged at a higher rate and effectively, by misstating the alcoholic strength, somebody along the way is evading some taxes.
Thirdly, and more worryingly, is the implication that this turn of events has on wine competitions and guides. How is the consumer to know that the wines submitted to competitions and guides are the same as what the consumer gets to buy? I see in the Platter guide that the Kleine Zalze Chenin Blanc Vineyard Selection 2008 was awarded 4 stars by Dave Swingler. Which of the three bottlings did he get to taste, taking into consideration that the consumer is in no way informed that there were three different bottlings and it is pot-luck which one he / she may be buying? I would hate to think that this is just the tip of the iceberg, and that the ratings given in Platter do not reflect what is available to the consumer.
So what's the verdict?
I believe that producers should differentiate between wines that are so completely different by, for example, calling it Vineyard Selection 1, 2 and 3 or Vineyard Selection with a date added to the label (as some Champagne producers do with a "degorgement" date).
Ultimately, however, producers should at all times endeavour to be open and honest, as consumers losing faith in what they are being exposed to (and I know a number of people falling in this category) will not do the industry any favours in the long run.
Illegal?
I had wondered about the declared alcohol levels on the different wines, but didn't have actual bottles to check (how is WC ssure that his bottle is the latest bottling?) - so thanks to WC for raising this issue, and for his other cogent comments. As he(?) says, the EU requires the declared alcohol-by-volume level to be within 0.5% of the actual level; although locally there is unfortunately a tolerance of 1.0% allowed. I have emailed Kobus Basson and asked for comment.
Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
From Kobus Basson, MD Kleine Zalze Wines:
Dear Tim,
We welcome the debate on competitions and the rules set for competitions. Anything aimed at setting a fair playing field and enhancing the consumer’s confidence in wine competitions carries our support.
We consider ourselves to be a responsible producer who follows accepted winemaking practices and marketing norms. The integrity of our brand is paramount and, with that, our recognition of consumer loyalty and support.
We reply, without reservation, to the question posed by WC that we did not earmark any of the 2008 vintage Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc for separate treatment, with a view of submitting any such wine for shows or competitions. The 2008 vintage Chenin Blanc was made in accordance with normal cellar practices, which included phased preparation and bottling of the wine. Any producer of bigger volumes of wine will confirm that the bottling of wine is determined, amongst other, by market demand, rate of sales, stock availability, bulk and barrel storage capacities, etcetera.
It is so that, for our 2008 vintage Chenin Blanc, the fermentation cycles of the grapes which we harvested were not synchronised. As stated in an earlier reply, our harvesting of the Chenin Blanc 2008 grapes was interrupted by rain. This eventually caused two separate vinification cycles. The bottom line is, however, that we followed what we considered to be best cellar practice for the grapes as received and were satisfied that the wine made out of the separate vinification cycles could be released under our “Vineyard Selection” range.
Any allegations or inferences that we followed anything other than appropriate and best cellar practices is regretted.
In retrospect, and with the benefit of having considered the comments raised in the debate which has been opened, we will consider in future separately identifying wines of the same vintage, marketed under the same brand, which, through the vinification processes followed, may show substantially different characteristics or make-up. This will, however, pose a number of logistical challenges.
As far as the query raised with regard to the information contained on the back label of the particular wine is concerned, the back label, specifically the stated percentage of alcohol, complies with South African legislation. The fact that the label may make reference to an importer of the European Union does not necessarily mean that the wine will necessarily be exported to the EU. We adhere carefully to local requirements of any of our importers. Where necessary, details of alcohol levels in wine are amended on back labels by small stickers.
As further information, the import taxes payable on wine exported are determined based on the certification details of the wine issued by the Department of Agriculture (and not SAWIS) and not by what may be stated on the labels. The inference that we may have understated alcohol levels on back labels to facilitate payment of lower import duties is also unfounded and regretted.
Kind regards.
Kobus Basson
Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
Us consumers couldn't care less if a producer has logistical problems regarding labelling. We all have to adapt in business. All we ask is that different wines are labelled differently. If I taste "Wine A" and like it, I want to know that I'm getting the same thing when I go out and buy "Wine A". It's a reasonable request, I think. Of course I accept that wines will vary in taste due to what might happen to it while it's in the bottle. However, if the change occurs pre-bottling without the producer amending the label, I feel done in.
Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
I can confirm that excise is paid from the numbers on the paperwork, not from the label.
But the practise to submit a special sample not representing normal quality (and not telling anybody) is pure fraud. Why didn't Kleine Zalze blend all three qualities and make it all the same?
Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
All of this seems to focus on Kleine Zalze. Surely it is open knowledge that various bottlings are done for wines to meet demand without any indication as such on the label. Hell, Steenberg even volunteered this info at some stage stating that their Sauvignon Blanc (with the same label) shows different tasting profiles depending on the specific bottling. To focus in this way on KZ is a bit over the top - different bottlings without indicating the dates is standard practice in the wine business and no deep dark secret just unearthed.
Regarding the competition medals - the producer has to confirm the total bottles in stock of the specific bottling entered for competition & medals should only be provided for this stock by the competition to the supplier. If the producer then attach these stickers to other bottlings of the same vintage, this will not be ethical and should surely be against the competition rules.
So we should not see any KZ wine with the 5 star stickers for sale in any case. Knowing Kobus, I expect they would not do so, even if they had stock left of other bottlings. The explanation given by Kobus was open and factually correct.
Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
Yes, it's old and widely spread, but so is murder - it doesn't make it right and it needs to stop. Different wine: different label, please.
Different bottlings, different wine
Tiaan suggests that doing different bottlings under the same label is common practice. Yes, it is, especially with much larger quantities than are involved with in this case, and it is not always a problem. Usually it is at least basically the same wine that is bottled at different stages. With this Kleine Zalze Chenin, we should not really be talking of different bottlings under the same label, but different wines under the same label. because they ARE radically different wines - picked at some distance in time apart, and vinified differently, and ending up with totally different analyse, and totally different characters. That is not the same as bottling one wine at different stages. Unfortunately (as far as I know) there seems to be some loophole in the law which allows this to happen. The question is whether it is ethical procedure to not inform your customers that they might be getting a wine that is very different from the one that they had every right to expect that they were getting.